---Hey, thanks! Normally I do pretty good with Google, but I think my thoughts on search words were receiving interference from the portion of the brain that handles aggravation/anger. I've swapped the ETS with a spare from the "donor body SL2" w/1.9 EFI DOHC. The numbers found will makeit easier when visiting the counter-monkeys at the parts house.
---For future reference, here's what part numbers I could cross to the Saturn Part numbers given on SaturnFans. Pretty much all the companies are subsidiaries. DEM is Dana Engine Management, Neihoff is Dana's best line, Echlin is slightly lower quality and MPE is NAPA doing nothing more than marking the price up on Echlin with their boxes. SMP is Standard Motor Products which is the generic line for Dana and as you may all know AC-Delco is a GM "name brand".
-21025106 =3D dual-terminal... is the Saturn number for the ETS/ECTS (Engine Temperature Sensor/Engine Control Temperature Sensor), the switch that controls the PCM/air-fuel mixture/cooling fan/transmission/etc. Wells - SU1425 Echlin - TS5587 DEM - TS10193 AC-Delco - 2131138 SMP - TS356
-21020124 =3D single-terminal... is the Saturn number for the CTS (Coolant Temperature Sensor), which for the operators who understand the importance of gauges, controls the temperature gauge. Wells - TU227 Echlin - TS6023 DEM - TS10128 MPE - TS6023SB GPS - 385146 Factory Air - 36462 BW - WT5029 Neihoff - TS71271 SMP - TX73
---This is a (1993=BD) 1994 Saturn SL1 w/1.9 TBI SOHC. The vehicle was bought used and ran pretty well for the first two years. Let me point out that the only thing that makes this GM product a decent vehicle is that it has a timing chain rather than a belt. This makes the engine durable, but the Delco electronics will be something that haunts us all until GM goes under and we don't have to worry about substandard electronics anymore.
---The problem is not solved yet, but it is being narrowed down. My bet is that it is a faulty PCM and as GM would have done, Saturn is ignoring it rather than recalling it. Cooling fan, Thermostat, O=B2 sensor and ETS (used because part number couldn't be found) were replaced. Battery disconnected for 5 minutes, though only 10 seconds is necessary to clear codes from the ECM.
NOTE: Remember to clear the codes after making repairs, by disconnecting the battery for 10 seconds. If the codes aren't cleared, incorrect signals can/will be sent to the ECM. Also, needed space for true/valid codes may not be available.
---The cruise control would work occasionally at first. Then the idle RPMs became fairly high at around 1100-1200 RPM. Other symptoms were erratic up-shifts/down-shifts that were uncommon even for GM (hate the way GM shifts... especially with cruise control activated). The idle RPMs gradually increased over the months and toward the end of my fuse, it had become so hard to start that I would have to hold the pedal to the floor while starting and the thickest black smoke (rich burn) would bellow from the exhaust as it would strain to bring the RPMs up to a decent level... while in the process, killing all local wild life faster than as if I used SeaFoam. Idle RPMs about this time in neutral were about 1800, then when settled it ran about 1400. Drive/Reverse was about 1200... and with the fuel mixture being so rich, the car was impossible to stop with gradual brake pressure and ready to launch when stopped.
---Engine temperature would get to =BE of the gauge and four times believe it or not, water had erupted from under the coolant reservoir cap. My method to keeping the temps down was the same as most, to trigger the relay for the fan by turning on the AC. This made the engine run even worse because the ECM was telling the RPMs to become xxxRPMs higher than the 800RPM idle... so, the ECM would force the RPMs down, causing even worse economy. The cooling fan failed, maybe not related; Maybe so, due to incorrect signals, so it was replaced. Fuel economy was horrible and so erratic, I couldn't begin to keep track of a full tank.
---With my working under the hood of nothing smaller than a =BD ton truck, looking for this ETS was to say the least, a royal PITA. Getting in and out of this dwarf of a vehicle is bad enough, but bending over at pelvic height? Sitting on a 1' step stool would be better than kneeling down to work on it. Besides, kneeling down gives me flashbacks of owning a GM. Replacement of the ETS and disconnecting of the battery to reset the PCM/ECM seems to have helped, but every time the temp reaches the =BE mark, the "Service Engine Soon" light comes on. I next have to install a new ETS and reset the PCM/ECM, then if the "Service... "light comes on again, short A & B terminals on the connector and grab any codes... if the light will go on at a convenient time and not during rush hour traffic when I am pressed for time.
---Thanks again,
-SB-