64' ragtop auto tranny replacement...again...just to be sure.....

I prefer to remove ALL the front metal when doing that. It takes 2 people to do this and is a LOT easier in the long run.

Since I've got that great Stude V8 oil pan leak in addition to my slipping auto tranny, I've decided to "pull" the drivetrain as an entire assembly (?) and attack both units from above and in clear view. I hesitated to make this decision due to the pristine condition of the engine compartment, the removal of the hood, etc.... and only so many available "hands"...That being said, before I started, I wanted to be sure that the X-member would not be a problem in the process. At the frame-off restoration, I had already removed the body, so never had to deal with clearances, etc. Am I correct in assuming that I will need to raise the car on all 4 corners on jack stands in order to clear the X-member, the ground, and the front radiator saddle/ hood panel etc ????

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Ray, to remove the doghouse on a '64 hardtop, do you take the fenders, rad support and rad as a unit, or does one detach the fenders from the rad saddle and leave the latter in place? Seems to me that the former is the ONLY way to do it, but maybe I'm overlooking something.

Gord Richmond

support and rad

Gord Take the fenders, rad support off together, I prefer to remove the radiator to prevent it from getting "poked" by the fan but you could take every thing off together. There are 4 bolts on each fender holding it to the tub, 4 each inner fender bolts IIRC and the bolt under the radiator saddle, plus the wiring harness.

I also take it ALL off as an assembly, radiator included. At the front, there are two bolts on each side holding the 'hoop' that the doghouse pivots on. At the back, there are the bolts where the fenders bolt to the cowl and the ones where the inner fenders bolt to the cowl supports to the frame. Once the wiring harness is laid to the side, the whole assembly lifts off.

support and rad

If you pull it without first removing the front clip (doghouse) you'll have to take everything (water manifold, crank hub and all pulleys) off the front of the engine.

Scribe, or otherwise mark, the hood at the hinges before you remove the hood from the hinges. This saves a lot of realignment grief when you reassemble.

I think that a Packard Hawk is the hardest Studebaker based body to remove the engine/transmission combination from with the front clip on the car, but it can be done.

Scribe, or otherwise mark, the hood at the hinges before you remove the hood from the hinges. This saves a lot of realignment grief when you reassemble.

I think that a Packard Hawk is the hardest Studebaker based body to remove the engine/transmission combination from with the front clip on the car, but it can be done.

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Excellent step-by-step reassemply process, and I will agree an all points. But the FIRST AND FOREMOST, is to MAKE SURE THE CAR IS ON LEVEL GROUND, AND SITTING ON ALL FOUR TIRES IT WILL BE RIDING ON AIRED UP TO THE CORRECT PRESSURE BEFORE PROCEEDING!!! I have seen plenty of rebuilds done on a on a driveway made out of sidewalk blocks or done with 'junk tires' on it of mixed sizes just to roll it back and forth with little consideration to what it will look like when sitting properly on all fours. Remember these cars do have a flexible frame, and even having a back corner raised with the rear wheel off for one reason or another will change your panel gaps some. There was that famous picture of a '53 K-body in Popular Mechanics up on a hoist with a warning the body will be 'sprung' and the doors won't open.

Craig.

Thanks for posting this detailed procedure. I printed out both of your post for future reference. Got a quote from my local Maaco for a paint job. Might give them a shot at it. And I sure will do the POR-15 treatment of the rear seam.

Gord Richmond

Thanks for posting this detailed procedure. I printed out both of your post for future

reference. Got a quote from my local Maaco for a paint job. Might give them a shot at it. And I sure will do the POR-15 treatment of the rear seam.

Gord Richmond

Nothing against Maaco- or similar establishments... BUT...

Be sure to do as much Prep to the car as possible before taking it. Remove any trim, bumpers, etc... that you don't want painted. Be sure to ask that they cover the engine with plastic- if it is detailed and you don't want overspray on it. Ask them about the weatherstrip. Often, They don't bother taping it off- especially in the door jambs. If you want, you can coat it with vaseline before taking it to them (if they aren't going to paint the jambs). Be sure to point out any nicks, chips, dents that you want removed/repaired before painting. Make sure they are noted on the worksheet.

Ray

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a shot at it.

Good idea.

I plan to have the car gutted, and will paint the floors, firewall, inner fenders and trunk, and door jambs myself with a urethane paint. I can trailer the car to the shop, with the engine already covered. The shop will be left with minor body work and prep on the exterior body, and exterior paint.

BTW, what's the story on interior trim panels? SASCO says they have NO hardtop panels in stock, but I have a pair of doors off a '66 two-door, and the interior door panels LOOK like they ought to work. Any comments?

Gord Richmond

a shot at it.

Phantom says they will have 1964 Convertible Door Panels this September. They also told me they would be ready in May when I ordered my new interior in the Spring of 2005.

Geno

64 Daytona Convertible

Yep. It all depends on how high the car is jacked up, angle of removal and of course "losing" the rear crossmember.

But, I don't think that you can do that, (engine/tranny as an assembly), on a truck since the cross member is welded in. But the dog house removal on a T-Cab is even simpler than on a passenger car...

JT

John Poulos wrote: