OT Mechanical Problem

No room for a bigger sledge.

Dave (I tried that) Lester

Heat? Penetrating oil? Read the manual? (had to throw that one in, as there doesn't seem to be any way it's a bad ground....) Oh, you could always hook something up to the PTO and comment loudly that you hope it doesn't come apart.

Dave's Place www.davesplace>> Bigger hammer?

After trying the heat. make up something like a giant pickle bar and beat the hell out of it.

Try pickle fork first, then heat and pickle fork together

Wedges and levers and come-alongs , Oh My!

HOLD ON Dave after you remove the grease fitting and screw on the other side, roll the over-riding clutch around until you can see the "5/16 roll pin" that holds it onto the pto shaft. take a 1/4 inch bolt or small punch and drive it out. only then will it slide off the pto shaft. hope it is not "frozen" into a fixed position and in that case you will have to grind or cut the outside portion to find and remove the roll pin. It is possible that the roll pin has failed and wedged the outside to the inside portion and in that case just replace the roll pin, grease fitting and keep on working. good luck on the repair. pwbrown

Sounds like a good place to try the liquid nitrogen-in-a-foam-cup experiment. Wear your gloves! I've always had good luck putting 'elastomeric' suspension parts in the freezer before assembly--although it's not as practical for disassembly...

This is probably as good a time as any to bring up, once more, the oddity of the "other" clutch on a Ford, where the plates can rust up a little if it sits for a while, and then take off uncontrollably if you start it in gear. Just another safety reminder, fellow ranchers.

HOLDIN' ON!

AH-HA! So, there IS another pin! It's been so many years since I installed that thing, I just couldn't remember. As I slept on this last night, I thought I noticed another area I could see through the grease fitting/screw holes that appeared to maybe be a hole with something in it... that's it!

Glad I didn't apply too much pressure with the come-along. I just put enough on there to give a little pull to the rear as I tried to pry. I was too stupid to get the job done, but smart enough to quit and ask questions before pulling the spline shaft out of the rear of the tractor.

Thanks!

Dave

Although not in the spirit of the original post, I need some tractor advice. We have just purchased a new place. (Closing at end of the month). It has 8 acres and a lot of it needs to be mowed, plowed, smoothed down, you know. I would like to get an older tractor to help with this work. I have a chance to buy an 8N with a bushhog for $3000. I don't know much about this tractor stuff. The tractor in question is supposed to be in very good condition. What do you guys think? Joe Roberts

The 8Ns are almost "cult" tractors- very sought after, very versatile, easy to find parts and compatible equipment (see your Tractor Supply store). IMHO they are also safer- low center of gravity compared to most others. My memory isn't that great, but I think the 8N engine is basically a Model A Ford engine. Paul Johnson

in MY neck of the woods, ASSUMING it DOES pass a little check GRAB IT!!

smokers here with NO attachments got for over 2 grand.

--Shiva--

If you still can't get the clutch off with the roll pin out you may have to take the PTO out and work it over. I had the same problem with a 9N that I have and ended up replacing teh PTO shaft all together because the clutch and PTO splines became a little worn from jaming up when the mower I (and the previous owner) used with it hit the odd gopher mound and killed the tractor.

Ns, in general are good tractors, darn near bullet proof. Like any tractor, there is a "danger" factor. I've used mine hard for 16 years now, and have spent very little on repairs. If the tractor/brushhog are in good working order, I don't think 3K is out of line. Mine is a

9N, and I would sure like to have the 4 speed. On my tractor, 2nd is too slow, 3rd too fast. Did I mention they can be dangerous?

BTW, got the PTO working this evening, quit mowing about 2200 hrs.

Dave Lester

Go for a later tractor with an independent PTO. Something like a late fifties Oliver 55/ or later 550 or the Ford/Ferguson, Massey Ferguson, Massey-Harris equivalent. Heres one good source of information.

I have a 67 Oliver 1650 which is pretty big compared to an "N". The way I understand it , the earlier tractors I have heard about, if the pto is engaged, the tractor may continue to move despite the drive clutch pedal being depressed.

Around here the Farm King stores have 30-40 hp Made in China POS tractors for 8k.

snipped-for-privacy@aol.com wrote:

If you get the front loader attachment, make sure it has power steering. Heck, make sure it has power steering anyways. Your shoulder joints will thank you.

Hey! Congrats on the new place! Tell us more about it! Jeff

Although not in the spirit of the original post, I need some tractor

It hurts to say it, since I was a "RedMan" for many a year, but any 1950's tractor EXCEPT a F**d is an antique pure and simple; expect to pay "antique" prices for all parts and service. It is a fascinating hobby, but may, um, perplex you when you need to have a working machine. Also, people's left thighs used to be a lot stronger, which is why Walter Brennan walked like that.

The red-bellies are the MGTD of the tractor world. "If it's blue it's too new." At $3K you cannot go wrong. Like 65 Mustangs, you could build one up from parts readily available in the many 'cute tractor' catalogs, and they are worth $3K as yard planters. (IMHO the 40's Ferguson is the MGTC). All those others are quality products, well-conceived, well-built, and with devoted followings, and they will all nickel-and-dime you to death (in my case, hundred-and-thousand), with little hope of recovery at resale.

There are many ways to (fairly) cheaply add P/S or a loader: pumps you can hang off the front, build into the loader frame, or operate off the back of the generator drive. But other than rear-end appliances that have their own pump and reservoir, I don't know of an easy way to change to independent PTO, so having that is a big plus.

We used to have one with a 60 V8. Wonder if anyone still does those conversions? (think Pinto/FF motor, for instance). I once saw a Cat Sixty with a Mercury flathead, and it didn't seem to be hurting for power.

I better tell my dad he's still using an "antique" to mow the grass LOL

nate

The new place is a little south of town (Fayetteville, NC) out in the country. A nice 8 year old brick house w/three bedrooms. Also on site is a double wide trailer that is in pretty good shape. I will use that as an office and also a guest house when so much family shows up that the main house overflows. There also is a concrete block garage (I finally get a garage!). It is only a two bay structure, but it is plenty big inside. In fact you could put a third vehicle in there if you wanted to. The garage has a back room that will be use for parts, etc. The 8.76 acres is mostly cleared, but there are some woods at the back of the lot. Lots of farm land around us. Heard this morning that the sellers (husband and wife divorced selling each residence seperately) have agreed to most of the repairs based upon the home inspection. Only thing left now is the termite inspection and the apprasal. Closing is on the 31st. Now -- anybody want a house. We have to fixup and sell out present house. Actually a large number of troops with a new unit are coming into Fort Bragg is summer, so our timeing may be about right. Once the new place is painted, old place is fixed up and all is moved. I can put the garage to use and work on my new Cruiser for a while. Joe Roberts