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Spring bushing bolt question

I am attempting to install new rear spring bushings in my '64 Daytona convertible. I couldn't get even the first bolt out of the lower shackle to spring mount. In reviewing the subject on the SDC Forum it was consensus that you have to cut off the bolts- they are hopelessly stuck to the inner sleeve of the bushing. So, I started cutting the first one last night, but by about 1/3 through the teeth on my Sawz-All blade were completely worn off. Are they case-hardened bolts? Should I use Grade 8 bolts for replacements? What about using stainless steel bolts to maybe keep the sleeves from rusting to the bolts? Paul Johnson

Reply to
Paul Johnson
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Paul,

I have been in the exact same situation you describe and have found that an abrasive cutoff wheel is the only way to get those bolts out. A hacksaw or sawzall will get the job done but as you've discovered it will require many blades. I tried a Sawzall on my '55 when replacing the rear springs and the blade dulled halfway through the first bolt; but a cutoff tool got the job done. Now you're going to ask me how the heck to replace the ones in the frame, all I can say is "improvise" :( I believe the stock bolts are Grade 5 but they appear to be a hard alloy. I wouldn't use stainless bolts for any suspension fasteners, I'd use Grade 5 or Grade 8. If you see yourself R&Ring the springs again in the future you might want to coat the bolts in grease or anti-seize to prevent future corrosion.

nate

Reply to
N8N

Paul, you actually WANT the inner sleeve to seize on the bolt, once installed. Those bushings work by torsional forces in the rubber. If the inner sleeve isn't well restrained, it will turn instead. The compression of the nut squeezing the two shackles against the ends of the innner sleeve provides the initial restraint, but a little rust helps in the long run.

When removing these bushings, it helps to first tighten the nut by half a turn or, or whatever is possible. Tighten until it breaks? Maybe. But stretching the bolt will help break the rust bond, and makes withdrawing the bolt easier.

Check the markings on the head of the bolt; you should be able to find a table, maybe with your torque wrench, that will enable to decode it.

I'd recommend a cutoff disc in a die grinder for cutting these bolts.

Gord Richmond

Reply to
Gordon Richmond

Did that on my 62 ragtop a few months ago, used the sawz all, and had both NOS springs back in just short of 2 hours. I used the grade 8 bolts I use for my dual M/C bracket, and lock nuts. Just remember, use jack stands to support the car AND rear axle assy.

Jim Turner

Reply to
Jim Turner

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