2001 Forrester Oil Change / Tune Up etc.

I would leave the thermostat alone. In 45 years of driving, I have had exactly one thermostat fail. Replacing it needlessly can cause more problems if it introduces an air pocket in the cooling system. this engine has no distributor so no cap/rotor. Don't confuse the engine oil filter with the transmission filter. Don't know the location of the engine oil filter on this model but on my older legacy, the oil filter is located on the right front side of the engine. When installing new plugs, start them by hand and anti seize on the threads can save a lot of grief the next time they are replaced.

thanks for the info, I'll leave the thermostat alone for now. I replaced the one on my '99 Accord after it went bad, after 100k or so, no problems with air pockets. How would you know there was an air pocket problem?

Yes, I always use anti-seize on the plugs.

Not sure what the shield under this year's Forester is like but my '98, you had to remove the whole thing to access oil plug and filter, PITA. Little easier on my '03 but you still have to open a compartment on the shield. I use ramps to change oil and filter.

Cabin air filters are way over priced. I've just washed mine and others suggest that you could rebuild yourself. The '98 was easier to access than the '03 where you have to take off the glove compartment. There is a Russian website with manuals in English. I'll have to check if they cover your Forester.

Other question on service frequencies can be found on line. Don't pay attention to dealers as they are out to make a buck and will recommend stuff more frequently or not needed.

. How would you know there was an air

Engine overheats and pops a head gasket and heater blows cold.

You might like to poke around at the following sites;

The 2001 is already prone to coolant air pockets and blowing gaskets.

Unless coolant change is being done at the same time, I advise against messing with it.

Looks like you have inherited a Subaru. Congrats. The first gen. Forry's are super cars; we have two of 'em, a '99, and an '02.

Jiffylube?!? Arrgh!

The oil filter is at the front bottom of the engine, just to the right of center. You will need to remove the plastic under cover to service it; two 8mm (? 12mm head) screws at the front, two in back, and two plastic push tabs at either side. Release the tabs by using a small screwdriver or ice pick to pull out the center pin a bit, and then remove the whole thing.

Put your floor jack under the cross member, just behind where the back screws for the under cover are located. You will want to get a flashlight and verify your positioning the first time, after that, it's easy. Jack the rear at the rear diff.

At 115K, you will want to verify that the timing belt has been serviced. This should happen at 105K +/-. I feel that this is fairly critical; the engine will likely sustain severe damage in the event of a failure here. Like most things on the Soobie, it's not a terrible chore, and can generally be accomplished w/o any special tools. Along with the timing belt, be _sure_ to inspect/replace all of the idler/tensioner pulleys. It is usually worthwhile to do the water pump and front main seal at this time; I always install a thermostat, new hoses, and new accessory belts as well.

Take it out, throw it away.

If you still have the OEM plug wires, it's time for a new set. Get quality wires from Bosch or NGK. No such animal as a distributor on your Forry. Honestly, I don't usually mess with the plugs unless I think there might be a problem; they seem to last forever. It is quite common to find engine oil in the spark plug wells, this due to small leaks in the valve covers. Unless you really are losing a lot of oil here, just use a rag and screwdriver to clean things up as much as you have patience for, and don't worry about it. Always use anti-sieze on spark plug threads. For that matter, use anti-sieze whenever you have a steel fastener threaded into aluminum.

I don't know what the recommended interval is for AT fluid, but it can't hurt to change it, if you're in the mood. The Subaru AT uses ATF, _and_ 90wt gear lube, so pay attention when you go to drain things. The front drain plug is for the front diff/gear lube; fill and dipstick are located well forward on the right side of the transmission cases. The rear plug drains ATF, fill and dipstick are just ahead of the firewall on the left side of the engine. The rear diff is straight forward, but you might have to heat the fill plug (use a propane torch) to get the thread sealant to let go. If the Forry has an LSD (it will say so on the sticker), it takes a different fluid for optimal performance. Check out Redline synthetic oil's web pages for more nfo on this.

Have fun!

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB Laboratory Manager Microelectronics Research University of Colorado (719) 262-3101

It is best to avoid Jiffy Lube and similar "quick service" places at all costs. They are notorious for damaging vehicles by stripping drain plugs (resulting in total oil loss and engine failure), draining engine and filling trans by mistake, and other catastrophic errors. If you can't do it yourself, find a trustworthy repair shop or dealer that knows what they are doing, preferably one that is familiar with your specific make and model of car. Your car does not have a distributor, rather there is a centrally located coil pack atop the engine. The coil towers should be inspected for signs of carbon tracking, cracks or corrosion. This can be caused by bad wires, but once it happens the coil pack may need to be replaced to prevent any further problems. If the coils look ok the wires can be replaced as a service item if they are old.