94 Legacy w/brake, spring problems

Why are you selling the car ? It sounds like a competent mechanic could get it in good running condition for the same cost as - what - 3-4-5 car loan payments? You may not recoup all the cost - but folks don't want to buy used cars with broken springs and bad brakes. Get it fixed up, tuned up, all the maintanence done a nd drive it for 6 months and if the car still doesn't meet your needs, well - it'l be running well and you'll have recent service receipts to show the next owner.

cn; fix it and keep it

Carl

1 Lucky Texan

Thanks for the response Carl. Car has 129K miles and certainly has some miles left to it (especially now w/ new tires and muffler.) I also had some other work done recently.

Do you think the axle/wheel fix caused the brake problem? If so, what is needed to fix it? Should I bring it back to the shop that did the work and see if they can fix it correctly?

Is it ok to drive on a broken spring for 6 more months? I drive about

1.2K miles/months with frequent trips up to VT from Boston. The spring shop said it shouldn't be driven. Monroe said it was ok for awhile. Who's correct?

Is the broken spring the cause of the bald tire on that side? I understand it could be alignment but they said they couldn't align until springs are fixed. What should a spring job cost? Can anyone recommend a competent, honest mechanic near Boston?

Still not sure that I want to sink $1K more on top of the $750 already put into it. Retail / trade-in value wouldn't be more than $2K and not sure what the market would be for an old car like this. I'm thinking of buying from an individual seller so wouldn't be able to trade-in and thought I'd just donate to charity.

Thanks in advance for more advice.

Someone here or possibly at

could refer you to a mechanic in the boston area. To answer some of your questions, likely NOT a good idea to drive the kind of mileage your speak of on a broken spring. It will eat tires (this could lead to center differential destruction), is dangerous in emergency maneuvers too. probably put the strut at a less than desirable spot on the valving - I dunno. Aftermarket springs are available or junkyard likely OK. I'd advise changing both fronts as a pair (manadtory for new springs) for certain. If keepin the car, I'd buy springs AND struts.

As far as the trade value being low - that (to me at least) is less of an issue than could you get as good a car, with so many new parts and recent service, for 2k + 1k + 750 ? (The 750 is arguably not part of the equation.) In other words, what's to prevent the next used car from costing as much or more in the first year? I suppose swapping in one spring from a junkyard and getting the brakes and a front end alignment would be the minimum to safely get you thru 6 months without destroying your tires and still feel good about trading it selling it or donating it.(btw - I've donated 2 cars and a boat to charity - I commend you)

Carl

Very good chance when the front axle was replaced whoever did it disconnected the brake line at the caliper. this introduced air in the system and you end up with mushy brakes. Is this a FWd or AWD Legacy? Bad idea to just replace 2 tires if AWD. Did a front or rear coil spring break? Just about any used Legacy or Outbac or WRX coil spring can be used to replace what you now have. WRX springs up to around 2004 models work fairly well. The front end will end up about 1" higher and the rear about 1" lower but these springs can be purchased for around $50 or less on a handful of Subaru forums. I have 2 front coil springs from my 95 Legacy just taking up space in the garage you can have for just postage if you want them.

Do you need front or rear coil springs? Asking because I found a complete set (struts/coils/top hats) of used rear turbo Legacy struts on another forum for sale for $80 obo.

Thanks John. It's the front I need. I have AWD. Let me think about your kind offer. I'd need to replace struts along with the springs though, right? The ride is pretty rough right now - on front and back end it seems. I think I'm leaning towards going the new, used car route to save on the hassle (as it's hard to find the time to deal with the fixes with my job and living in the city) and also to have a nicer ride on the long trips I've been taking lately. Looking at Outback or another Legacy wagon, AWD under 45K miles. Wondering if the LL Bean series with 3.0 liter engine is that much better over the 2.5 liter? I've seen a few of them out there similar in price as the non special series. I read somewhere that there is not much difference in mileage which is hard to believe. I'm getting quite an education with these recent repairs which is enlightening. Thanks.

One more thing about my brake problem. Someone told me the problem may be caused because the axle they used didn't have a tone ring? The car is back at the Monroe shop to check out. Figure if they get that fixed with no extra cost, it's only suspension to worry about...

I really think the brakes need bled. The "tone ring" thing sounds like something found on models with ABS. I don't think you have ABS. The ABS system does use a ring but it has nothing to do with the CV axle. If you decide to repair this problem probably should replace both front struts because the one with the broken coil spring has taken a real beating. Stay away from 1996 to 2000 Outbacks with the 2.5 engines because that run has a history of head gasket failures. Really should also post this over on

Couple of regulars/honest guys over there in your area that could easily repair your problems. My offer for the front coils still stands if you decide you want them.

Yes, I do have ABS actually. The brakes aren't soft now and seem to be responsive but when I'm at idle with foot on brake, they start crunching and making strange noises. Would this be an air problem or ABS? If I decide to fix front suspension, I'll inquire over on usmb.net for a mechanic and take you up on your front spring offer for sure. Thanks much for all the valuable advice. And thanks for info on steering clear of 2000's - there were two that I was considering. Is there much difference between Legacy's and Outbacks aside from clerance and trim? In your experience are leased cars more beat on than privately owned? What's the difference w/Sport models mechanically? Are they just smaller? Nice to have some knowledge from experienced people so I can make a smart buying decision!

I don't know beans about ABS but only because you heard noises when the car is at stand still, my guess is you have an ABS problem. The ABS it would seem is causing the calipers to pulsate for some reason. The Outback has a different suspension compared to the Legacy. Stands an inch or so higher. Bumper and foglights are different. At least up to the year 2000 the Legacy had only the 2.2 engine and the Outback came only with the 2.5.

2.2 is an excellent engine. Not so for the first generation 2.5. Don't know jack about leased cars or Sport models.