An actual car post...

In my case, Buick!

The 84 GL station wagon I used to have had less than great brakes. Don't expect too much.

When you screw in the pistons, make sure you orient the slot on the piston in the same direction that it was in. A pin in the pad fits in that slot - it keeps the piston from rotating.

The caliper design is pretty much a copy of a early 70's Fiat caliper design. How odd!

I usually let em soak with rust buster for as long as possible. Then carefully whack it with a hammer, wrench, etc on the head of it to help break the rust loose from the threads. Pop it 2-3 times if need be. They will usually come out after that.

Which is cheaper - Chevy or Buick?

I'll have to check out the local GM dealer parts department!

Not really all that odd. As a former Fiat mechanic I can tell you that many Fiat first features (brake, OHC engine, carburetor ... designs) were later found on domestic cars.

Best penetrating oil I've ever used, has NEVER once, given sufficient time, failed to perform par excellence.

In addition, when no protective cap is present, I always also use a pin vise and drill rust, sediment, what have you from the hole to assist the rust penetrant to infiltrate. When assembling, I'm certain to install a cap and spread a very light smear of antiseize on the outermost meshing threads.

Sure, I know what you mean. It took the rest of the world a while to put out a twin-cam engine with a flat toothed belt timing belt.

I suspect that Subaru and other manufacturers might pay Fiat some cash for license to use that parking brake design for disk systems. VW and Volvo and probably others used Fiat's wonderful system of flat shims to adjust valve clearances - they were all interchangeable. What I meant is that it's odd because most other folks don't think much of Fiat.

Sure, I know what you mean. It took the rest of the world a while to put out a twin-cam engine with a flat toothed belt timing belt.

I suspect that Subaru and other manufacturers might pay Fiat some cash for license to use that parking brake design for disk systems. VW and Volvo and probably others used Fiat's wonderful system of flat shims to adjust valve clearances - they were all interchangeable. What I meant is that it's odd because most other folks don't think much of Fiat.

You are preaching to the choir. I didn't realize that it was still available so I was very stingy with the last can I had.

Chrysler dealers also had a heat riser lubricant in the same shape can with the same big white nozzle that I suspect was supplied by the same company that supplied GM's, but I have never used Chrysler's stuff so I don't know if it works as well as GM stuff.

Some of those features go back a good few years in the U.S>

The 1949 Crosley featured disc brakes and an OHC 4-cylinder. engine.

I wasn't referring to the concepts so much as I was the actual design of the components which were often indistinguishable or nearly so from one another.

On my stuck bleeder, 'sufficient time' was less than 5 minutes!

Once it gets in the threads, rust doesn't stand a chance!

I skimmed thru the first handful of replies and didn't see this mentioned, so I'll throw in my $.02. Pardon if you've been there already.

Check that the "floating" mechanism on your calipers is working smoothly. The pins that mount the caliper tend to get rusty/gummy over time, and no longer allow the caliper to "float" to adjust for pad wear. This condition will decidedly cause the brakes to feel weak/mushy, and it'll be one of those things that kinda creeps up on you.

A sure sign is one pad worn _way_ more than the other, but even if you don't see this, always check/lubricate the caliper's mounting pins when you service the brakes.

Hope this helps.

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB Laboratory Manager Microelectronics Research University of Colorado (719) 262-3101

I should have said "crocus cloth" rather than emery. Sorry. Crocus cloth will polish and does a great job of cleaning up microabrasive surfaces. It is perfectly safe to use on cylinders or pistons.

Sorry I missed the point that his drain was on a rear caliper. Doesnt make much difference, actually. I have redone rears as well as fronts. They ARE different, but not that complicated.

If it is rear shoes, I totally agree with you.

If it is rear discs, then you have to make a decision. Rear discs are not so hard to work on, but if you snap off a bleed valve, you may be committed to buying a new caliper.

Yes, a good machine shop MIGHT be able to get the old one out, but the expense can overpower just getting a junkyard unit and rebuilding (as I did), or even buying new.

Fiat had a lot of interesting technology. I thought those flat shims were super. I had a problem with one head once that I could not get into spec with any existing shims. Had to do a little "machining"..

Fiat doesnt have a good name, really. I think the classic rusting problem is one issue. It isnt the worst car in the world.

Actually, rear drum backing plate.

I got it loose with Heat Riser lube and...Vise-Grips.

All bled, all working. Sort of. I'm used to a Supra and a Scion. Much less pedal pressure required...