Catalytic Converter replacement

Just in case anyone else out there w/

Reply to
Scott Hughes
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Scott,

Unless there were non-warranty CEL problems, they shouldn't have charged you anything for the warranty catalytic converter repair. You should complain to the Service Director -- not Service Mgr/writer and to Subaru.

Ed P

Reply to
Ed P

Reply to
Edward Hayes

Subaru's with 50,000 miles or more often throw this code. The problem is almost always not the converter but a leaky exhaust gasket messing up the readings between the two 02 sensors. The way a used up cat WOULD be detected is the difference between 02 sensor readings is out of spec but at 80,000 miles the more likely culprit is the gasket...I have cleaned up this code MANY times this way. Of course when they replaced the cat you got new gaskets. Tracy

Reply to
TG

IMO the prices are way out of line. I'm at 130k miles and in need of a replacement converter. Third party replacements that are a drop-in replacement are in the $300 range and since these are bolted in, labor shouldn't be more than an hr even considering the need to swap out the O2 sensor.

There ain't no way no how I'd pay more than $1k for that repair.

Mickey

Reply to
Mickey

Just had the same code on my 1995 Legacy.....and, the dealer stated that the only drawback from not replacing it is a possible loss in gas mileage (car has 135K). Other than the C/C code....the car runs perfectly. I'm not spending 300-500 bucks on a car with 130K on it---when the rest of the car is in perfect shape.

John

Reply to
SKCS, USN

If you like the car and it has been well maintained,etc. That's only 1-2 monthly payments if you were paying on a loan! And your Sube could easily go another 130K.

Carl

Reply to
Carl 1 Lucky Texan

The drawback to this strategy is that right now, you know what the CEL is for. Tomorrow, next week, next month...will it still be for the O2 sensor---or something else?

Anyone know how well Subies accept "generic" O2 sensors?

Reply to
CompUser

Hi,

Can't speak for the newer models, but the older ones seem to do all right with "generic." I think Bosch and Hitachi make most of 'em worldwide, anyway, so there's a fair chance you'll get the same sensor with maybe a different connector, for a much lower price.

Good luck if you're gonna be changing one soon!

Rick

Reply to
Rick Courtright

Ed P wrote in news:7LGdnSoUDYT-RLTenZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@rcn.net:

Well, in light of the cost of the cat replacement, the $52 was easy to stomach, even if it was bogus. But their explanation was that they have to do the test first and if it's not conclusive that the cat is at fault, then I have to pay for the test.

When I first brought the car in and they tested it, they said that a loose airbox could be responsible for that code. This particular aspect certainly seemed suspect. He showed me that you could shake the airbox a bit and had one of the service guys take care of it. When I got the car home I popped the hood and was able to shake the airbox just as much as he had before the guy "fixed" it..

-Scott

Reply to
Scott Hughes

Scott,

I speak from the experience of a former Chevrolet dealer mechanic, shop forman, service writer, and customer relations manager.

When a vehicle is beyond the bumper-to-bumper warranty but within the emission warranty, there is certainly the possibility that complete repair may involve both warranty and non-warranty items. And it is reasonable for a garage to require customer authorization for check out time until diagnosis reveals what the situation is. However, if the

*only* repairs needed are warranty, then there should be no additional check out charge to the customer. Now the reality is that in real-life situations whether you are charged depends on the integrity of the mechanic and the shop. Obviously, an experienced mechanic can make up BS to cover wanting to charge checkout. As the customer, you have to decide whether the shop is treating you right.

Bear in mind that diagnosing Check Engine Light problems is based on following step-by-step procedures that mechanics often short-cut. For example, the short cut is to pull the computer code and go right to replacing the related component. But, as an example, a leaking vacuum hose will affect the fuel mixture that the oxygen sensor sees. The sensor might prove to be fine once the vacuum leak is fixed. If an inferior mechanic replaced the Oxygen sensor only to find out afterwards that it was a vacuum leak, do you think he is going to put the original oxygen sensor back and only charge for the vacuum leak repair?

The first diagnostic step (or second after checking for codes) should generally be to look at things under the hood and an assess the overall engine management system. One then proceeds to diagnostic procedures specific to the trouble codes that were found. Followed after the repair, with a final check that everything is working properly.

I don't know how Subaru dealers do it, but we used to make the warranty determination based in part on the labor codes involved. Back in the

80s when I was active, emission component labor codes all began with the letter E. The warranty classification for certain repairs where determined by whether the car had failed an state emission test.

Ed P

Reply to
Ed P

This is a frightening statement of reality. When I was a mechanic, I remember the other (grass roots type) mechanic replacing electrical parts until the problem went away. The job was then done. When I mentioned to him once that he had replaced a lot of unnecessary parts it was like I was speaking some other language.

I've often felt bad thinking about all the poor innocent souls paying exhorbitant repair bills.

Reply to
Paul

Ed, that was a great answer. It puts my faith back in this NG. -Danny

Reply to
Danny Russell

I had a EGR system check engine light and diagnosed it as far as I could and then took it to the dealer. The dealer replaced the valve and control soleniod to the tune of about $400; in other words, just about every thing but the computer. When I later got a check engine light and code for the knock sensor, I replaced the knock sensor hoping that would take care of it -- it did :-).

My '96 Outback now at 99k miles has been a good car except for what I believe is a rear main engine oil seal leak. But I can't get over the price of the parts compared to my old Chevies. For example, I had a '84 Celebrity that needed an EGR valve and I found the valve - Delco no less

- at a local parts store for $20.

Ed P

Reply to
Ed P

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