How do I replace the dash lamps in a Forester?

I have a 2000 Forester. One of the lights behind the A/C panel has burned out.

How the @#$%&! do I get to the bulbs to replace them? (and why isn't every car company on the planet using LEDs for dash illumination these days?!)

I checked ScoobyMods but they only had info for replacing bulbs in the Legacy. (Man, I hope it's easier on a Forester than for a Legacy!)

And if by chance anyone knows how to do the same thing for a Land Rover Discovery (1997), I sure appreciate some advice.

Thanks.