"Caz" wrote;
Well, Caz, it makes a big difference depending on whether you have "Disk" brakes or "Disc" brakes. Better check the owner's manual. JUST KIDDING!!!
Either spelling should be clear to anyone knowing anything about cars.
Besides, I think what you mean is you have disk brakes on the front and drum brakes on the rear on a GL. Let me know if you have some weird fangled with hybride! Also I am assuming you do not have antilock brakes.
This posting does not apply to 4 wheel disk brakes, but let me know if that is what you have cause I did my
4 wheel disk brake turbo a few months ago.So if you have a flat tire, it's never going to get changed? You only have to do one wheel at a time. BUT, after jacking up the wheel, use a jack stand or tree trunks or 6x6 wood blocks or whatever will keep you safe if the car comes down unexpectedly. Best idea, remove the jack after raising the wheel off the ground so you will know if whatever you are using will hold the car's weight.
If you want to lift both front or rear wheels at the same time, jack up one side, block it or use a jack stand, then do the same for the other side. SAFETY first! It may be tempting, but block under any wheels (at body, frame or suspension points) raised off the ground before working on the car or use jack stands.
BTW, you can bleed the brakes with all four wheels on the ground if you need to.
Your brakes, if disk front and drum rear, are about the same as any other brake job you have done. The only thing I don't remember on mine (they all start to run together in my mind after a while) is whether you had to spin the disk brake piston as you push it back into the caliper to make room for fatter pads or just push it in directly (straight in). I think I used a "C" clamp on my last Suby disk brake job to push the piston back in without spinning (like you have to do on some Mazda's and other cars).
You probably have the 4 bolt replacement disks. So if the disk is bad or too thin (min thickness should be indicated on the disk itself in small unreadable print), replacement is easy. Unbolt, replace, torque. Some have "No" bolts to undo, just remove the wheel and the disk comes off with a little loosening with a rubber mallet (after getting the caliper out of the way, of course.)
I could do Suby brakes all day long and be a happy man. Very Easy.
This is a matter of economics. Seeing someone bring in a 1986 car for almost ANY work brings on fears in most mechanics minds about rusted things that won't come apart and bolts that break at half their normal torque tightening force and the fear that when a part needs replacement which usually does not need replacement, like a backing plate or special bracket, they can't get it.
Go ahead, "Be a mechanic of one",.. or... eh... join the Marines... no....I mean....uh.... go ahead and fix the damn brakes.
Hmmmm... I am sure I left something out, but not important.
The Ol' Factory Rep (not Subaru)