slipping clutch i do believe

alright guys I''m super new to all this stuff. I'm a 16 year old just bought my first car. It's a 97 impreza outback. Shes gorgeous i love her. However, I am noticing that my clutch is slipping even when it is engaged. (pedal all the way up) My rpms constantly go up and down. When I do press down the clutch, it barely takes anything to allow me to change gears. Is there any way I can tighten the clutch somehow? thanks!

Reply to
parker w.
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There has to be a clutch adjustment. Look for a threaded rod around the bellhousing area. Problem is the clutch is now probably beyond saving.

Reply to
johninKY

Likely the clutch is just worn out - they are wear items and, depending on driving 'style' and conditions (highway driving versus city/stop-n-go) clutches can last a widely varying length of time - used up in 20-30 thousand miles - or lasting well over 80K miles I guess. I THINK you have a hydraulic clutch and likely adjusting it will not help. Folks here or at

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can likely help you change it or locate a mechanic in your area for the work.

What city and how many miles on the car?

Carl

Reply to
Carl 1 Lucky Texan

I'm over in hillsboro, portland area. The guy I bought it from had it up in North Portland. its got 130k on it, first clutch. I did tighten the nut piece, as it was slipping while engaged, unfortunetly however, I'm still going to have to replace it. Should I replace just the clutch or the whole tranny?

Reply to
parker w.

the whole tranny?

Hi,

As long as the gearbox shifts ok, there's probably no need to get past the clutch...

Normal "clutch job" parts list should include a new clutch disc, a new pressure plate, a new throw out bearing, and a new pilot bushing (the little "bearing" in the rear of the crankshaft the center shaft of the trans rides in. It's a good idea to inspect the flywheel for damage and replace it if it's burned or badly worn. Some cars allow machining of a damaged flywheel, but I understand Subie flywheels aren't great candidates for that operation. I believe your car has the hydraulic clutch, and some would suggest a new slave cylinder, but I'm on the fence about messing w/ the hydraulics if they're working. On older models that use a cable, this is a good time to renew it.

Suggest using "new" parts if you have a choice (frequently the clutch discs and pressure plates can be had as "rebuilt" or new) Also suggest biting the bullet for price and using Subaru OEM parts in there. Replacing a clutch is enough work you don't want to get it all buttoned up and find someone didn't do a good job of rebuilding something!

Good luck!

Rick

Reply to
Rick Courtright

Um....Why would you feel the transmission needs replacement? Normally, one would replace the clutch disc but inspect a few thing while the area was visible - the pressure plate for instance and seals, etc. But usually just the clutch - not the transmission, is worn out.

Maybe someone can suggest a good mechanic in your area and have the vehicle thoruoghly inspected.

Carl

Reply to
Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Even though they connect, the clutch and the transmission are two separate components of the drivetrain. If the transmission was working with no funny noises or funny shifting problems (agreed, kind of hard to tell with a slipping clutch), keep it. It wouldn't be a bad idea to open up the transmission to look for problems though. Most tranny shops do a minor overhaul of replacing some bearings and possibly synchros for not a huge amount of money.

Reply to
nobody >

thanks a bunch you guys. its nice to see that some folks still enjoy helping each other, including a 16 year old skate rat who you've probably yelled at to "get off the sidewalk!" I ended up buying a new clutch kit, so tomorrow's chore is to replace it. All right I'm excited. Thanks again guys!

Reply to
parker w.

Hi,

I hope you have a book to refer to as you do this chore... one thing that's a good idea is to get some blue Loc-tite and use it on all the mounting bolts (flywheel, pressure plate) in there, and be sure to torque 'em to spec. You don't want anything working loose in there later.

Now "get off the sidewalk" and get to work! :D

Best of luck--keep us posted on progress (or problems?)

Rick

Reply to
Rick Courtright

If you can find a neighbor that has done this kinda work before, offer to buy a case of 'sodas' to come by and offer moral support and an occasional helping hand. Reassembly can be tricky.

good luck!

Carl

Reply to
Carl 1 Lucky Texan

Alright I have run into a problem. Within the clutch kit there were two bearings. the throw out bearing I know and have installed, However, I am having a hell of a time getting the second one out of the fly wheel. It seems to be jammed in there pretty good. Any suggestions on getting it out? I dont really feel like taking off the fly wheel, but if need be I guess I might have to. Thanks already!

Reply to
parker w.

This usually works; find a rod (preferably soft metal like brass or ally) or dowel that's a close fit inside the pilot bearing. Pack the inside of the old bearing with grease, insert the rod into the bearing then hit it with a mallet; the hydraulic force usually forces it out first go. Probably a good idea to wear safety glasses when you do this, the grease will probably squirt out along with the bearing

Reply to
Martin Whybrow

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