Was in Pep Boys the other day and looked for the filters for the Sube.
Do they make a Smaller one?? I looked for longer ones and only found
one a bit longer, but the threaded hole was smaller. I have a bunch I
had bought for an old Capri that may fit, but guess I should use a
Sube part during warranty, since I'll probably be changing my own oil.
My V-6 Chevy has a small filter, but I found one 2X as long that
On Sun, 07 Oct 2007 11:51:56 -0700, email@example.com wrote:
You'll want one of these, too. The oil comes out really fast, as if
it's under pressure. Get the N model. It has a hose nipple.
The only oil you'll have to ''catch'' will be from the filter.
I don't recall if it was mentioned, but the factory crush washer was
painted in place and I had to use a very small screwdriver to pry it off
on both my soobs. So be wary of that - stacking them could cause drips.
I'm a bit late to this thread, but WHAT is it you're looking for?
Standard, shorter, longer? I'm confused...
However, if you'd like to do some research, you'll find plenty of info
on filter sizes at Wix' site: www.wixfilters.com You can start w/ a
cross reference to the Subie OEM filter, then start searching from
You'll find the canister dimensions, gasket dimensions, info on
anti-drainback valves, relief valve settings, flow rates, and in some
cases, efficiency ratios (expressed in beta ratio form--you'll probably
want to look that one up. It's easier than trying to describe it.)
Once you find the filters that fit your general desires, you can do
cross reference searches at other filter mfrs' sites using your Wix
Yup, that's what about half the messages in my inbox tell me!
Ok, seriously, there have been some changes over the years in the oil
filter world that may or may not make that true anymore. So some of the
reasons for smaller filters make sense to us, some don't.
One thing to consider is today's engines are much tighter, and burn a
LOT cleaner, than they did 15-20 years or more ago. As a result, there
is far less contamination produced that ends up in the oil. Newer oils
hold up better and longer, too. So the filter, regardless of size, has
an easier job to do. Add that filter media has undergone a lot of
changes, amd we see higher efficiency in smaller packages than was once
Another issue is clearance. That can take two tracks. First one's
obvious--can you get to it, can you remove and replace it? What kinds of
tools are required to remove/install it, and how much room do they take?
Just as a "for instance," I had a lady friend w/ a 2000 Honda Civic. Its
filter looked like someone stole it from one of Honda's smallest
motorcycles, and it lived in a place behind the engine where the only
"easy" way to get to it was w/ a cup style removal tool on a ratchet. By
the time one got the tool on the filter and loosened it a turn or so,
there was almost no more room to move. Another issue was Honda suggested
an installation torque figure instead of the usual "3/4 turn past
contact" method we've all grown used to. After taking off a filter
installed by a "quickie" place, I saw why. That filter had been "hand
tightened" and seemed ready to fall off. I was surprised it wasn't
A less obvious clearance issue has to do with effects on the surrounding
environment. Case in point is my '88 Toyota pickup, which replaced a
stolen '86. Between myself and friends, we've had several of these
trucks in the '85-'88 range, all w/ the 22R engine (straight 4, carbed,
fair amounts of spare "real estate" in the engine bay.) The "standard"
filter when I bought my '86 was a "short, fat" filter, but the '88 spec
was for a "short, thin" unit. Popular practice among the group (even
suggested by my Toyota dealer!) when I got the first one was to go
"bigger" and put a Fram PH-8A ("long, fat") sized filter on. It doesn't
really filter that much better, but does add some oil capacity, close to
1/2 qt. Since I live in a relatively "warm to hot" area, this seems a
On the later models, one CAN still use the "big" unit, BUT it appears
there was a wiring change mid-range in the model run, so one of the
harnesses will lie across the end of the filter if a big one's
installed. Which means it's getting heated more than it probably
should--not so good for wiring, eh? That may be one reason the engineers
spec'ed the short, thin unit. In reality, it does just as good a job,
particularly for those of us who still adhere to "short" change
intervals of 3000 miles or so. So one needs to check what's "around" the
filter before deciding to go "bigger."
Ok, those are obvious reasons. A less obvious one is inventory control,
both at the manufacturing, and retail, levels. Used to be when I went to
the Toy store, there were quite a few choices of filters. Today, two
models will cover MOST of the popular models. Saves some money, shelf
space and confusion! It seemed the last time I was at the Honda store
they'd done about the same. My Subie's old, and I think they only used
one size filter when it was built, but it appears they've gone nuts w/
lots of sizes in the last 10 years or so? Not sure why--but it seems
Subaru COULD probably cover things w/ just one or two units as well.
Of course, the bean counters can't be ignored in yet another area: a
smaller filter takes less material to make, hence less cost! The
accounting dept would probably be just as happy to leave the filters off
completely and really save a buck, while the engineering dept screams
"No can do!" and tells 'em what they actually need. Some compromise
occurs, so there's probably little reserve in many filters today. But,
going back to the Civic, the oil in that car was changed at 5000 mi
intervals (mostly city driving, too), and its tiny filter must have done
fine, cuz on the stick, the oil was still a light honey color even when
it was time to change!
Anyway, I've rambled a lot waiting for the first cup of coffee to kick
in, but the point kinda comes down to the idea that the factory size is
gonna do just fine as long as one keeps their oil change intervals to a
"reasonable" figure: 3k to 5k miles shouldn't be a challenge for any
factory filter today.
On 7 Oct, 16:51, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I can understand what you are saying, but I'd still want bigger if I
can get it. If not I'll probably be changing filters more often. I run
a little keroscene into where oil goes, or the PCV hole on the other
bank of my V-6 to flush out as much dirt or dirty oil that I can. The
oil looks cleaner longer, and I feel better.))
On 21 Oct 2007 00:58:37 -0700, email@example.com wrote:
Why not use an old speedometer cable to clean out the oil passages?
Maybe race the engine while a friend slowly pours some Dexron into the
You are a one-man disaster. Why do you think you know more than
people who get six figures a year perfecting cutting-edge automobiles?
What makes you think your antique auto sensibilities are at all
relevant in this age of very tight tolerances and EPA gudelines?
When did you lose faith?
WHY would I use a speedometer cable to clean out oil passages, when I
am Flushing Old, Dirty oil out of a crankcase? You sound like you know
Something, but NOT Everything.)))
I won't get into the Dexron thing, since That's a Different story. I
Did Once rod out the return holes on a car that they were completely
plugged and the oil had to spill over into the valley, and Bypass the
oil pump pickup screen that was Sludged Closed, in a car I picked up
that had 100K+ miles and all short trip driving, when it lost oil
pressure. I was ready to replace the oil pump, but didn't feel like
removing the crossmember, so looked for an easier cure. Thinking the
pickup screen may have been plugged with All the sludge that was in
the motor, I drilled a hole through the cup that held the screen that
I could see through the oil drain hole, back flushed it with crankcase
cleaner, with an oil squirt can, till the flush came out as fast as it
went in. replaced the plug, filled it with oil, and drove it for
So You think it is Such a Bad thing to flush all the old dirty, acidy
oil you can, and Want a bigger filter ? To each his own. Maybe little
guys like little filters, and BIG guys like Big ones. I heard enough
talk on this NG about how BAD Sube engineering is, with their head
gasket, stop leak cures, and hear about recalls of ALL the mfgs, that
I Wouldn't take Any Bean counters ideas as gospel.
I have a friend who will Only use synthetic oil, and another who
thinks it is a waste of money. I on the other hand consider the
benefits and cost. If I had a turbo I would Definetly use if, but
without.. for Now, I'm debating. From things that I read, and getting
it for 1.50$/qt, I may go with synthetic, and use what I drain from
the Sube in my old Chevy, since I Believe it will be good for More
than 7500 miles, and the Chevy uses a little oil between changes, so
can juggle fresh and old, and have the costs reasonable, even at 5$/
The head gasket problem gave me some hesitation about buying a Sube,
But the plan was to change More than simple things, but the motor and
maybe Whole drivetrain in the future. I didn't get really interested
in a Sube though I have looked at them for many years, After seeing
the WRX come into europe, because I wanted a High performance station
wagon. What got me into a dealers was seeing a vid of the Leitchfield
T-25 STI. That Really got me thinking. The Wrx liked to break my back
on a 1mi test drive in the city, and the "i" rattled my teeth till I
made it tolerable, SO what the engineers put together didn't and Won't
work for me. I couldn't find out whether a WRX or STI had any stronger
internals than a 2.5i. Sube Wouldn't answer me, and on a forum someone
said that they were told the Rods were Forged Aluminum an the pistons
Cast Iron!!!??? From my contact with Sube they Didn't want to say. I
read that ALL sube cranks are Forged, and All pistions are
hyperutechic. Except for the open deck and higher compression of the
"i" I didn't see that much to gain getting a WRX, if I was thinking of
a Cosworth motor. Especially with injury limitations that make me Not
Able to drive my old Chevy to it's limits often, but Sometimes I Can,
and it gives me hope, so I dream and plan.
Now if I can Never do all I want to, WHY would I Want to mess up a
new car, or Feel that I Might be. I can afford Anything I may want,
but even parking a 16K$ Sube on the city streets has me stressed,
since I don't need to be doing body work to a New car, I did That
enough. I was Trying to wait till I moved out of the city, but Sube
changed the 08' Impreza, and dropped the wagon, and the 5 door looks
like a baby carridge to me, and I wanted a stick. I Amost bought a
mint looking 86' Mustang SVO I went to look at on my way to the last
Sube dealer, but there were a few issues. Could of had had what I've
wanted for 20yrs, for half the price of the Sube. one thing it has is
Much better Recaro seats, so I bought a pair to put in the Sube. Best
of Both Worlds?? The Stang also has a High rear sill, so not as
convient as a wagon, though a hatch is almost as good, but the wagon
has more headroom for hounds.
I have been planning for 20yrs since my injury, and Still don't think
I can physically manage what I want to, living in the country, where I
Would have that Leitchfield, "VF" Like Sube, and an 86' Mustang SVO,
and maybe a Ferrar.... well, a minivan for the hounds, a pickup for
the horses hay, and whatever else I wanted.
Shame I Don't trust engineers, I've Seen and experienced Some of
their mistakes, and try to minimize Or Improve on Their designs so
they FIT ME!! You call it a disaster, and I call it Cooool... Some
people Don't understand or Don't have the info and knowledge I seek.
but Some Do...
So I search, to Do Things Right... the way I want them. I Always Did
and Always Will, or I Wouldn't be satisfied.))
On Sun, 21 Oct 2007 16:16:38 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I still maintain that injecting solvents into the lubrication system
will do more harm than good.
You obviously didn't do a lot of homework or the Forester would've
been in your little pool of Impreza-esque autos.
Hell, you can't even figure out the damn headlights and you're ready
to redesign the platform.
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