Sube Oil Filters

Was in Pep Boys the other day and looked for the filters for the Sube. Do they make a Smaller one?? I looked for longer ones and only found
one a bit longer, but the threaded hole was smaller. I have a bunch I had bought for an old Capri that may fit, but guess I should use a Sube part during warranty, since I'll probably be changing my own oil.
My V-6 Chevy has a small filter, but I found one 2X as long that works.
VF
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On Sun, 07 Oct 2007 11:51:56 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@phonom.net wrote:

http://www.subaruparts.com /
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https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/index.php?cPath3_92

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On Sun, 07 Oct 2007 11:51:56 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@phonom.net wrote:

You'll want one of these, too. The oil comes out really fast, as if it's under pressure. Get the N model. It has a hose nipple.
The only oil you'll have to ''catch'' will be from the filter.
http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com /
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pretty neat device. thanks.. Haven't even looked where the filter or drain plug are, but with the nipple and a hose, I wouldn't have to catch the oil amd then transfer it to a jug. Neat..
VF
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On Mon, 08 Oct 2007 08:59:18 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@phonom.net wrote:

Just don't overtorque when isnstalling. Assume all threads on a sube motor are aluminum.
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David wrote:

I don't recall if it was mentioned, but the factory crush washer was painted in place and I had to use a very small screwdriver to pry it off on both my soobs. So be wary of that - stacking them could cause drips.
Carl
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I've got a bit More to learn about this Sube.
VF
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David wrote:

It looks like a good idea but just be careful that it does not hang down much. I can see a small rock taking that appendage right off. Mike
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wrote:

Certainly the "con" side of the fitting being brass. Much more easily cracked or sheared.
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On Fri, 12 Oct 2007 07:28:27 -0400, Mike Copeland

It's in a recess behind a plastic brush guard. A rock severe enough to shear off the the valve will also likely remove the steering.
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David wrote:

Maybe on your car....that is not the case on my '90 Legacy wagon.
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On Fri, 12 Oct 2007 13:52:08 -0400, Mike Copeland

Houndman has an Impreza. I have the Forester.
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snipped-for-privacy@phonom.net wrote:

Hi,
I'm a bit late to this thread, but WHAT is it you're looking for? Standard, shorter, longer? I'm confused...
However, if you'd like to do some research, you'll find plenty of info on filter sizes at Wix' site: www.wixfilters.com You can start w/ a cross reference to the Subie OEM filter, then start searching from there.
You'll find the canister dimensions, gasket dimensions, info on anti-drainback valves, relief valve settings, flow rates, and in some cases, efficiency ratios (expressed in beta ratio form--you'll probably want to look that one up. It's easier than trying to describe it.)
Once you find the filters that fit your general desires, you can do cross reference searches at other filter mfrs' sites using your Wix numbers.
Rick
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Not too late. I was just looking for a bigger filter for an 07' 2.5i Impreza. After seeing how small they are, I wondered if there was a bigger one that would fit. Bigger always Seems better.)
VF
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snipped-for-privacy@phonom.net wrote:

Hi,
Yup, that's what about half the messages in my inbox tell me!
Ok, seriously, there have been some changes over the years in the oil filter world that may or may not make that true anymore. So some of the reasons for smaller filters make sense to us, some don't.
One thing to consider is today's engines are much tighter, and burn a LOT cleaner, than they did 15-20 years or more ago. As a result, there is far less contamination produced that ends up in the oil. Newer oils hold up better and longer, too. So the filter, regardless of size, has an easier job to do. Add that filter media has undergone a lot of changes, amd we see higher efficiency in smaller packages than was once possible.
Another issue is clearance. That can take two tracks. First one's obvious--can you get to it, can you remove and replace it? What kinds of tools are required to remove/install it, and how much room do they take? Just as a "for instance," I had a lady friend w/ a 2000 Honda Civic. Its filter looked like someone stole it from one of Honda's smallest motorcycles, and it lived in a place behind the engine where the only "easy" way to get to it was w/ a cup style removal tool on a ratchet. By the time one got the tool on the filter and loosened it a turn or so, there was almost no more room to move. Another issue was Honda suggested an installation torque figure instead of the usual "3/4 turn past contact" method we've all grown used to. After taking off a filter installed by a "quickie" place, I saw why. That filter had been "hand tightened" and seemed ready to fall off. I was surprised it wasn't leaking...
A less obvious clearance issue has to do with effects on the surrounding environment. Case in point is my '88 Toyota pickup, which replaced a stolen '86. Between myself and friends, we've had several of these trucks in the '85-'88 range, all w/ the 22R engine (straight 4, carbed, fair amounts of spare "real estate" in the engine bay.) The "standard" filter when I bought my '86 was a "short, fat" filter, but the '88 spec was for a "short, thin" unit. Popular practice among the group (even suggested by my Toyota dealer!) when I got the first one was to go "bigger" and put a Fram PH-8A ("long, fat") sized filter on. It doesn't really filter that much better, but does add some oil capacity, close to 1/2 qt. Since I live in a relatively "warm to hot" area, this seems a benefit.
On the later models, one CAN still use the "big" unit, BUT it appears there was a wiring change mid-range in the model run, so one of the harnesses will lie across the end of the filter if a big one's installed. Which means it's getting heated more than it probably should--not so good for wiring, eh? That may be one reason the engineers spec'ed the short, thin unit. In reality, it does just as good a job, particularly for those of us who still adhere to "short" change intervals of 3000 miles or so. So one needs to check what's "around" the filter before deciding to go "bigger."
Ok, those are obvious reasons. A less obvious one is inventory control, both at the manufacturing, and retail, levels. Used to be when I went to the Toy store, there were quite a few choices of filters. Today, two models will cover MOST of the popular models. Saves some money, shelf space and confusion! It seemed the last time I was at the Honda store they'd done about the same. My Subie's old, and I think they only used one size filter when it was built, but it appears they've gone nuts w/ lots of sizes in the last 10 years or so? Not sure why--but it seems Subaru COULD probably cover things w/ just one or two units as well.
Of course, the bean counters can't be ignored in yet another area: a smaller filter takes less material to make, hence less cost! The accounting dept would probably be just as happy to leave the filters off completely and really save a buck, while the engineering dept screams "No can do!" and tells 'em what they actually need. Some compromise occurs, so there's probably little reserve in many filters today. But, going back to the Civic, the oil in that car was changed at 5000 mi intervals (mostly city driving, too), and its tiny filter must have done fine, cuz on the stick, the oil was still a light honey color even when it was time to change!
Anyway, I've rambled a lot waiting for the first cup of coffee to kick in, but the point kinda comes down to the idea that the factory size is gonna do just fine as long as one keeps their oil change intervals to a "reasonable" figure: 3k to 5k miles shouldn't be a challenge for any factory filter today.
Rick
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On 7 Oct, 16:51, snipped-for-privacy@phonom.net wrote:

Rick,
I can understand what you are saying, but I'd still want bigger if I can get it. If not I'll probably be changing filters more often. I run a little keroscene into where oil goes, or the PCV hole on the other bank of my V-6 to flush out as much dirt or dirty oil that I can. The oil looks cleaner longer, and I feel better.))
VF
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On 21 Oct 2007 00:58:37 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@phonom.net wrote:

Why not use an old speedometer cable to clean out the oil passages? Maybe race the engine while a friend slowly pours some Dexron into the air intake?
You are a one-man disaster. Why do you think you know more than people who get six figures a year perfecting cutting-edge automobiles? What makes you think your antique auto sensibilities are at all relevant in this age of very tight tolerances and EPA gudelines?
When did you lose faith?
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WHY would I use a speedometer cable to clean out oil passages, when I am Flushing Old, Dirty oil out of a crankcase? You sound like you know Something, but NOT Everything.)))
I won't get into the Dexron thing, since That's a Different story. I Did Once rod out the return holes on a car that they were completely plugged and the oil had to spill over into the valley, and Bypass the oil pump pickup screen that was Sludged Closed, in a car I picked up that had 100K+ miles and all short trip driving, when it lost oil pressure. I was ready to replace the oil pump, but didn't feel like removing the crossmember, so looked for an easier cure. Thinking the pickup screen may have been plugged with All the sludge that was in the motor, I drilled a hole through the cup that held the screen that I could see through the oil drain hole, back flushed it with crankcase cleaner, with an oil squirt can, till the flush came out as fast as it went in. replaced the plug, filled it with oil, and drove it for another 6yrs.
So You think it is Such a Bad thing to flush all the old dirty, acidy oil you can, and Want a bigger filter ? To each his own. Maybe little guys like little filters, and BIG guys like Big ones. I heard enough talk on this NG about how BAD Sube engineering is, with their head gasket, stop leak cures, and hear about recalls of ALL the mfgs, that I Wouldn't take Any Bean counters ideas as gospel.
I have a friend who will Only use synthetic oil, and another who thinks it is a waste of money. I on the other hand consider the benefits and cost. If I had a turbo I would Definetly use if, but without.. for Now, I'm debating. From things that I read, and getting it for 1.50$/qt, I may go with synthetic, and use what I drain from the Sube in my old Chevy, since I Believe it will be good for More than 7500 miles, and the Chevy uses a little oil between changes, so can juggle fresh and old, and have the costs reasonable, even at 5$/ qt.
The head gasket problem gave me some hesitation about buying a Sube, But the plan was to change More than simple things, but the motor and maybe Whole drivetrain in the future. I didn't get really interested in a Sube though I have looked at them for many years, After seeing the WRX come into europe, because I wanted a High performance station wagon. What got me into a dealers was seeing a vid of the Leitchfield T-25 STI. That Really got me thinking. The Wrx liked to break my back on a 1mi test drive in the city, and the "i" rattled my teeth till I made it tolerable, SO what the engineers put together didn't and Won't work for me. I couldn't find out whether a WRX or STI had any stronger internals than a 2.5i. Sube Wouldn't answer me, and on a forum someone said that they were told the Rods were Forged Aluminum an the pistons Cast Iron!!!??? From my contact with Sube they Didn't want to say. I read that ALL sube cranks are Forged, and All pistions are hyperutechic. Except for the open deck and higher compression of the "i" I didn't see that much to gain getting a WRX, if I was thinking of a Cosworth motor. Especially with injury limitations that make me Not Able to drive my old Chevy to it's limits often, but Sometimes I Can, and it gives me hope, so I dream and plan.
Now if I can Never do all I want to, WHY would I Want to mess up a new car, or Feel that I Might be. I can afford Anything I may want, but even parking a 16K$ Sube on the city streets has me stressed, since I don't need to be doing body work to a New car, I did That enough. I was Trying to wait till I moved out of the city, but Sube changed the 08' Impreza, and dropped the wagon, and the 5 door looks like a baby carridge to me, and I wanted a stick. I Amost bought a mint looking 86' Mustang SVO I went to look at on my way to the last Sube dealer, but there were a few issues. Could of had had what I've wanted for 20yrs, for half the price of the Sube. one thing it has is Much better Recaro seats, so I bought a pair to put in the Sube. Best of Both Worlds?? The Stang also has a High rear sill, so not as convient as a wagon, though a hatch is almost as good, but the wagon has more headroom for hounds.
I have been planning for 20yrs since my injury, and Still don't think I can physically manage what I want to, living in the country, where I Would have that Leitchfield, "VF" Like Sube, and an 86' Mustang SVO, and maybe a Ferrar.... well, a minivan for the hounds, a pickup for the horses hay, and whatever else I wanted.
Shame I Don't trust engineers, I've Seen and experienced Some of their mistakes, and try to minimize Or Improve on Their designs so they FIT ME!! You call it a disaster, and I call it Cooool... Some people Don't understand or Don't have the info and knowledge I seek. but Some Do... So I search, to Do Things Right... the way I want them. I Always Did and Always Will, or I Wouldn't be satisfied.))
VF
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On Sun, 21 Oct 2007 16:16:38 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@phonom.net wrote:

I still maintain that injecting solvents into the lubrication system will do more harm than good.
You obviously didn't do a lot of homework or the Forester would've been in your little pool of Impreza-esque autos.
Hell, you can't even figure out the damn headlights and you're ready to redesign the platform.
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