1997 tarus engine removal.

Can you remove a 3.0L Vulcan engine on a 96 Taurus out the top without dropping the subframe?

To do so, you would have to disconnect the trannie and move the engine over to the passenger side enough to separate the two? seems to be only a few inches of space on the front of the engine to do this. Any tips on doing this?

I have a engine lift, but no good way to drop the subframe out.

bob

Reply to
bob urz
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Any details to make the job easier?

Do you need to take the crank pulley off? And it looks like ford does not have lifting hooks on the newer 3.0L?

bob

Reply to
bob urz

yes

Reply to
Steve Austin

you'll have to remove the hood before you hoist it out

Reply to
Rick Cooper

Why would anybody give a smart ass answer like this? Here is a fellow trying to fix his car, and you open your cakehole and tell him yes?

Try doing something constructive with your time.

Reply to
Scott

Take the pulley off the damper. Unplug the ecu and the other harness connector and pull the wiring with the motor. If doing a swap, make sure the harnesses are exactly the same or switch them.

Reply to
Steve Austin

Ever pull a motor, bonehead? Knowing if is comes out the top is a major deal.

Reply to
Steve Austin

The worst part of the job is disconnecting the rear manifold pipe. I usually cut one of the studs with a cutoff wheel and the other with a torch.

Reply to
Steve Austin

That's the kind of info i am looking for. It looked to me taking the crank pulley off would buy another few inches of clearance to move the engine over to separate it from the trannie. If you do this, can you leave the half shafts on and all the trannie linkage and wiring? How far off the trannie case does the motor need to be to remove it? It also seems this vintage motor has no lifting hooks? One dude locally i talked to says he takes the intake plenums off to make the job easier. Is this necessary?

You made a comment out cutting the rear exhaust studs. Did you mean flush with the nut then remove the nuts? Can you get a impact on them with a long enough extension from below?

Thanks for the information.

bob

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Reply to
bob urz

All motors can be hoisted out the top if you remove the hood first. Putting a car on the rack and dropping it through the bottom is the worst possible way to remove a motor. What the f**k have you been practicing on? Hot Wheels?

Reply to
Rick Cooper

You can't get at the rear exhaust studs from below. Pulling the upper intake makes it easier to get at them. The engine will come up past the tranny after it's moved to the passenger side an inch or so. Leave the halfshafts on. A half inch of stud left in the exhaust manifold is plenty to remove them with. You want new studs in there anyway.

Reply to
Steve Austin

The motor comes out much easier from the bottom on just about any American car with a 4 banger. I've never seen any minivan that would allow top removal. I practice on what the SA gives me.

Reply to
Steve Austin

Wrong. HTH, Ben

Reply to
ben91932

Old air-cooled VWs don't count.

Reply to
MasterBlaster

Hey, VW Bugs and Transporters are indeed a subset of "All Motors". You have to be extremely careful tossing around absolutes like always and never, they usually come back to bite you in the ass.

For a VW like that you either have to tear the engine down quite a way before it comes out the top easily (all the cooling shrouds and the blower housing, etc., or take the rear apron apart so it comes out at an angle.

But dropping the Beetle engine and transaxle as a unit on the ground, then get four football players to pick up the back end of the car body and roll it forward is a whole lot easier and faster.

With a heavier Transporter or Vanagon body you might need the whole football team, or a dedicated dolly.

Same thing with a front engine front drive car, it is often easier to drop the entire powertrain and cradle out the bottom as a unit, then tear it down further out of the car, with plenty of room to work around it.

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Reply to
Bruce L. Bergman

Unless you need the transaxle out, there's no reason to remove it, and it's a one-man job. Remove the tin, muffler and linkages. Put a floor jack under the engine and remove the 17mm's holding the housing to the transaxle. Pull the jack with engine back a few inches to clear the trans shaft, and let the jack down. Pull the jack out so the engine gently goes on the floor, then jack the back of the car up a few inches and drag the engine out. Jack the car higher to roll the jack/engine back in, using a scissors on each side. Had it down to about 1/2 hour each way - maybe longer putting it in. Don't do it in sand though. Might screw up the pressure plate if the jack tips. You won't know for sure until it's back together and find your new clutch chattering. No need to ask me how I know.

--Vic

Reply to
Vic Smith

I once saw a man and his two sons lift a 455 out of a Silverado without a hoist, carry it over and lay it down on an engine stand. They were all about 6 foot 5 and weighed around 250 lbs apiece.

Reply to
Rick Cooper

Here's 2 guys lifting a hemi v8 even though they didn't go very far.

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Reply to
genius

In one of the 'every which way but loose' movies Clint Eastwood carries what looks like a ford inline 6. Of course that's the movies and for all we know it was gutted inside and nothing but a thin shell left or a foam replica.

Reply to
Brent P

That was a cool video. The same guys I mentioned earlier blew a tire on an old Cadillac on a country road. They had a lug wrench but there wasn't a jack in the trunk. They picked up the Caddy at the front driver side fender until it was in midair, while their father mounted the spare.

Reply to
Rick Cooper

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