2006 GM Envoy suspect anti theft problem.

We bought this car for my wife last October. It was fine for about 6 months and then one day my wife said that it wouldn't start. I came home later th
at day and tried to start it and it started right up. We subsequently took it on vacation and put all kinds of miles on it and it was fine. Then two w eeks ago it did it again. This time I had made some en quires on this probl em beforehand and we've noticed the blinking padlock symbol flashing on the dash. Since that time it's happened a few more times. Every time it's fail ed to start there is the padlock blinking. We've had to perform the relearn procedure a number of times since then but with the increasing frequency t his is now happening, (twice this week), it looks like the hand writing is on the wall and I fear that the next time will be the tow truck.
So, first I would appreciate help in determining which Passlock, passkey, V ATS, (or whatever the damned thing in my vehicle is called) system we have in this car and then if someone could please direct me to the proper proced ure to permanently bypass and rid my life if this useless nuisance I would be very grateful. There are so many different procedures and so many differ ent systems out there. I just want to be sure I'm definitely going into thi s with my eyes open. For example some of these procedures mention cutting a yellow wire. Yellow wires scare me because aren't those for the air bag ci rcuits? I've really looked at the key and aside from the fact that there is definitely no resistor chip in it and I don't know about a transponder I'v e hit a wall with this. Thanks for any and all help. Lenny
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in

pretty sure you have a chip or transponder in your key and one of them is failing. replace that key and most likely your problems will be gone. KB pretty common problem
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The deler says this is Passlock 2 and that the key is nothing special, available at most hardware stores. Lenny
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Should be Passlock 2. No chip/transponder in the key. The electronics are in the key cylinder. They have a bad habit of the wires breaking and the signal fails. Not hard to deal with but it won't fix itself.
--
Steve W.

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On Tuesday, August 11, 2015 at 9:35:48 PM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wro te:

hs and then one day my wife said that it wouldn't start. I came home later that day and tried to start it and it started right up. We subsequently too k it on vacation and put all kinds of miles on it and it was fine. Then two weeks ago it did it again. This time I had made some en quires on this pro blem beforehand and we've noticed the blinking padlock symbol flashing on t he dash. Since that time it's happened a few more times. Every time it's fa iled to start there is the padlock blinking. We've had to perform the relea rn procedure a number of times since then but with the increasing frequency this is now happening, (twice this week), it looks like the hand writing i s on the wall and I fear that the next time will be the tow truck.

VATS, (or whatever the damned thing in my vehicle is called) system we hav e in this car and then if someone could please direct me to the proper proc edure to permanently bypass and rid my life if this useless nuisance I woul d be very grateful. There are so many different procedures and so many diff erent systems out there. I just want to be sure I'm definitely going into t his with my eyes open. For example some of these procedures mention cutting a yellow wire. Yellow wires scare me because aren't those for the air bag circuits? I've really looked at the key and aside from the fact that there is definitely no resistor chip in it and I don't know about a transponder I 've hit a wall with this. Thanks for any and all help. Lenny
HWhen you say "electronics" I was under the inpression that it was simplty a resistance that was
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On Tuesday, August 11, 2015 at 9:35:48 PM UTC-4, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wro te:

hs and then one day my wife said that it wouldn't start. I came home later that day and tried to start it and it started right up. We subsequently too k it on vacation and put all kinds of miles on it and it was fine. Then two weeks ago it did it again. This time I had made some en quires on this pro blem beforehand and we've noticed the blinking padlock symbol flashing on t he dash. Since that time it's happened a few more times. Every time it's fa iled to start there is the padlock blinking. We've had to perform the relea rn procedure a number of times since then but with the increasing frequency this is now happening, (twice this week), it looks like the hand writing i s on the wall and I fear that the next time will be the tow truck.

VATS, (or whatever the damned thing in my vehicle is called) system we hav e in this car and then if someone could please direct me to the proper proc edure to permanently bypass and rid my life if this useless nuisance I woul d be very grateful. There are so many different procedures and so many diff erent systems out there. I just want to be sure I'm definitely going into t his with my eyes open. For example some of these procedures mention cutting a yellow wire. Yellow wires scare me because aren't those for the air bag circuits? I've really looked at the key and aside from the fact that there is definitely no resistor chip in it and I don't know about a transponder I 've hit a wall with this. Thanks for any and all help. Lenny
Hi Steve This is what I've learned so far. The dealer says this is a version 2 system, so the key is nothing special. It can be made at any hardware store. That suggests that it is the cylinder (or whatever rotates with it) that puts out the resistance when the key is inserted and turned that the anti theft module wants to see. Apparently while it could be the key, it is more likely this flaky and troublesome resistance unit cylinder that the computer wants to see during the initial handshake period. What I've been told is that this hand shake intermittently gets screwed up because the correct resistance is not always seen by the CPU. Subsequently the car "thinks" it's being stolen, goes into protect mode and you spend the next ten minutes with your thumb up your ass hoping the damn thing will relearn the key. I could be way off base here but from what I've seen, if I can substitute the correct resistance, (and more than one video I've looked at shows how to do this), then I can eliminate the cylinder resistance from the starting prerequisites. We have now found the spare key and we're going to start using that one instead of the first, to see if the frequency of this problem changes as well. So depending on that outcome I think we're going to attempt the bypass and see what happens. As far as the "electronics" you mentioned in the cylinder Steve I was under the impre ssion that it was simply a unit that provides a resistance that the anti th eft module sees during that initial handshake period. Is it more than that? Thanks for looking into this for me. Lenny
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