91 GMC Jimmy Stalls

I have a 1991 S15 GMC Jimmy 4x4 (4.3L V6), and it is running perfectly... for about 30-45 seconds :-(

On a cold start, the engine purrs along and no problems are detected. After about 30 seconds though, there is usually a preliminary half-second stall, that the engine recovers from. Then about 15 seconds later, the engine dies. Attempts to restart fail, usually just flooding the engine with no sounds of even trying to fire.

To correct this, I have tried the following:

- New spark plugs/wires

- New distr. cap/rotor

- New air filter

- Test ignition coil resistance according to Chilton - test SAT

- Test pickup coil resistanve according to Chilton - test SAT

- Test MAP sensor, disconnected..no change

- Read ECM codes, none (just the 12 "all good" code)

I'm kind of at a loss now. I am getting a nice (perhaps too nice?) spray of fuel into the throttle body when it won't start, and the only thing I can think of to do tomorrow is to test each plug for adequate spark when it won't start.

Since the engine runs perfectly on start up, I'm suspecting "something" cuts or diminishes the spark, or increases the fuel mixture too much, when the system goes into normal idle mode. Either that, or something in the input voltage to the ignition coil is flakey(like the switch/wiring), and cutting out when the system is warming up. Any other ideas?

I shudder to think it may be something in the ECM itself...although there aren't any codes coming out of it, so I'm hopeful there.

Any help, here or in email, would be greatly appreciated. I'm kind of under a time constraint with this, as I wanted to take the family up to Canada for the holidays, and the weather up there is calling for my

4x4...

Thanks! joe snipped-for-privacy@charter.net

Reply to
Orko
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There is a sensor that detects block temp. It tells the computer to change the mixture from cold setting (at initial start up) to warm setting 14:1 in normal conditions. This is done to aid in cold starts (what chocks used to do for carbs). The problem may be with this sensor. Look it up in the book, not sure what GM calls this sensor. It isn't more than $15-$20 or so and fairly easy to change. May need a special socket that usually can be borrowed or rented for a few dollars.

Most car makers call it CTS (coolent temp. sensor).

Reply to
Fred

Looks like (from the Chilton) it would be easy enough to test out. Will put it on my list to try tomorrow. Thanks!

-- orko

Reply to
Orko

Turned out to be the ignition coil, even though it ohmed out good. It was the last high voltage component to be replaced, and I guess with new plugs/wires/dist.cap/rotor, that poor old coil couldn't handle the load. When the engine warmed up (it is mounted on the engine block vs. the firewall, which may have something to do with its heat issues...) the coil started to open and lose/leak output voltage.

THANKS for the help!

-- orko

Reply to
Orko

mine needed timing chain it was doing that.

Reply to
gdavid

mine needed timing chain it was doing that.

Reply to
gdavid

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