Can a starter motor get "weak"?

You'd have a point, had anyone made your strawman claim.

just because some ripoff retailer puts a "higher price" on it in full knowledge that most poseurs won't be able to recognize they're needlessly paying more than necessary.

Reply to
Gene
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Be intimidated if you'd like.

My statement was in obvious response to your risible pretense that you possessed some magical knowledge or experience that I didn't in the subject at hand.

Nice strawman, no one has claimed that there is a reason to buy "cheap inferior aftermarket crap".

The reference was clearly to my decades long professional experience as an automotive mechanic.

Your implication that OEM is necessarily superior to aftermarket is laughably naive to anyone competent.

Reply to
Gene

pointing out that you don't know what you're talking about is not a strawman, it's simply statement of fact based on your own words. if you don't like it, don't say stuff that can be so trivially contradicted.

apparently, that doesn't stop idiots thinking that because they paid more, they're getting more!

Reply to
jim beam

uh, i'm not. apparently missed the sarcasm.

if i can tell the difference between a quality oem rebuild and one made with inferior after-market components, then i apparently possess something you don't.

it's no strawman - you were trying to justify paying the same price for inferior aftermarket as oem.

so what are you now - an auto mechanic, or an engineering grad? you're not decades as a bachelors/masters graduate regressing to auto tech, thus you're clearly not one and probably not either.

i'm confused - when you said "I'd purchase (as I have, an untold number of times) a rebuilt, lifetime warrantied unit from one of the discount parts stores, Advance Auto Parts, Auto Zone, O'Reilly Auto Parts", i thought you'd actually shopped at one of those establishments and were advocating their product based on experience. clearly you haven't because if you had and you'd seen machine screws replaced with self-tapping, seen copper slip rings replaced with aluminum, seen rectifiers and/or controllers replaced with under-rated components, and seen chinese bearings, i'd have thought you, as an "engineer/vehicle tech" would know what you're looking at.

Reply to
jim beam

Whoosh! Two non sequiturs in a row. You must be so proud.

Reply to
Gene

Apparently, you have.

If only.

Hardly, but it's demonstrably just too far over your head for you to comprehend.

Retired, as clearly stated and which you've already acknowledged.

Again, already recently and unmistakably stated. But given that you still can't differentiate that which wouldn't even begin to flummox a retarded ten year old in a hurry, what could possibly be the point of continuing a dialog with you.

Logic obviously isn't your long suit.

In that case at least, you're a master of the obvious.

As impossibly unlikely as it would seem to be, you're simply and incontestably becoming more and more ridiculously incoherent and less and less entertaining.

Reply to
Gene

Yes, autoparts stores across the spectrum often carry the same rebuilds from the same places. This doesn't mean they aren't crap across the board. Today, not years ago before you got your degree, they are crap. It's crap at NAPA and crap at Autozone. The difference is that NAPA usually has teirs. Their more expensive stuff isn't the same stuff that's at the others.

I prefer OEM, I prefer rebuilding my own (and I've done it). But sometimes you're in a bind and just have to get the car back on the road now so the top of the line NAPA/carquest/etc stuff fits the need.

As to starters, on one car with an odd starting issue, I removed the starter, disassembled it, cleaned it up, found nothing wrong, put it back together and the problem went away.

Reply to
Brent

The OEMs often farm out their rebuilds to rebuilders that also serve the aftermarket. Although the OEM rebuilds are IME much better done, they are still rebuilds and often not exactly the same as the factory orginals.

On another note Amazon.com does not deal with cores so it's a good place to get OEM rebuilds without having to give up your original. That said what they carry at any given time is a crap shoot.

Reply to
Brent

The "lifetime warranty" or 1-2 year warranties are the standard sales pitch at places like OReilly's and Autozone. I've only noticed lifetime for alternators, but don't pay much attention. Bought such an alternator last year at OReillys. Cost maybe 50 bucks more than the low end rebuilt, and I figured putting a "lifetime replacement" on an alt means something in rebuild quality. GM alts aren't the best alts in the first place, and IME getting more than about 5-7 years out of them is doing good. We'll see if I use it. If it goes +5 years versus 3 years for the cheapo, and I don't even use the warranty it was still worth the extra

  1. But I'll never know, and it's a crap shoot. The store goes out of business, and the warranty means squat anyway. The car probably won't last 4 more years. Otherwise, I just go for the top tier rebuilt they offer, and don't pay any attention. I can't remember the warranty on the last rebuilt starter I bought about 5 years ago. When you get to stuff that normally lasts the life of the car, warranties are basically worthless unless you believe they indicate "extra" quality. Water pumps I buy new, not worth the price difference to go rebuilt. PS pumps are a crap shoot. My son went through 3 OReilly's rebuilts before he got a keeper. I've done a few with no issues. I went through 2 rebuilt A/C compressors from OReillys before I squeezed them for a good price on a new OEM. Decided I'll never buy a rebuilt A/C compressor again. Too much labor and lost R134 to make it worth it. It's always a crap shoot with rebuilts. There used to be a lot of local rebuilders around here and the parts stores sourced from them. Different world now. I would never buy a rebuilt engine. I had a Beauville van I bought used. 350. During normal crawling around maintenance I found a "Rebuit By" sticker on the crankcase. Can't remember the name but they were a major "respected" rebuilder of that era, the 1970's. Think it was a Texas outfit. Gave me a bad feeling. At about 100k miles I had to pull the heads and do a partial top end rebuild. Valve job and new lifters. The head shop called me after I dropped them off and said I gave them a 350 head and a 307 head. WTF? They recommended they rework a boneyard 350 head to match them. Cost me an extra 75 or so, but the bad part was knowing I had a shit rebuild in my van. About 20k later a rod was knocking and that was that. It's all par for the long course. Once you get your rules set, follow them and don't sweat the small stuff. Works for me.
Reply to
Vic Smith

I actually had a counter guy at VatoZone recently steer my friend away from the cheapest line of parts when his alternator died (Cavalier, 250K miles, so obviously we were not shopping for quality or ultimate durability) even he admitted that the cheap stuff was garbage. In particular he mentioned that the 1-year warranty batteries seemed to have an even chance of leaking and destroying stuff even before the warranty was up. I appreciated his honesty, but really...

nate

Reply to
Nate Nagel

Even the most casual observer could readily verify that NAPA, O'Reilly, Auto Zone ... explicitly list many of the same vendors for replacement parts on their websites.

Those I mentioned commonly have tiers today also. I've never advocated the use of the least expensive replacement parts sold.

Yes, we used to replace diodes, brushes, starter drives, solenoids, compressor clutches, master, slave and wheel cylinder kits ... as needed. But as such individual parts have become more difficult to easily come by, it's now common to simply replace an entire unit with a reman.

Reply to
Gene

he said, from the safety of his sofa not workshop.

but you advocated "Advance Auto Parts, Auto Zone, O'Reilly Auto Parts", none of whom offer oem quality rebuilds. your recommendation was on the basis of their "lifetime warranty", which may sound good when you're paying $130 for an alternator, but in reality, you're getting $50 of crap and an $80 warranty which they're hoping you'll never use. any experienced professional knows it's better to pay $130 for an oem rebuild with a 12 month warranty that will never be needed.

"we"???

individual parts are very easy to come by. there's this thing called "the internet". it'll put you in touch with virtually any part you want

- if you actually know what you're doing.

but that's not what you meant to say - that it's EASIER to replace remanufactured units.

Reply to
jim beam

That phrase alone conspicuously excludes his ilk.

He should just admit the glaringly obvious, concrete fact that everyone else is already well aware, he doesn't now nor has he ever had anything of any value whatsoever to contribute.

Reply to
Gene

he? or your royal "we"?

Reply to
jim beam

Yet another indecipherable, meaningless non sequitur. The deluded poseur isn't exactly what one would classify as a formidable, or hardly so much as even a worthy, adversary.

Reply to
Gene

if you think you're addressing someone, like me, then address that person directly. otherwise all the above indirect nonsense means nothing. apart from showing the yellow streak down your back.

Reply to
jim beam

Well aware that he can no longer either garner nor be deserving of a personal response, he's developed stark "emotional problems" due to the fly speck's continually failing attempts to attract the child like attention that he has proven to so desperately desire.

Reply to
Gene

don't be a coward. [and a hypocrite.] if you mean me, address your comments to me directly, not some ethereal "he" that is contextually incorrect.

Reply to
jim beam

A lot of times you can compare part numbers and you'll find that they are ALL using the same parts supplier but not necessarily all charging the same price.

Reply to
Ashton Crusher

Get a starter draw test done and find out how many amps it is drawing. It may well be out of spec now and will require replacement.

Reply to
DFBonnett

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