Can Speedometer Cables Squeal?

I have an '87 Toyota Supra with about 167,000 miles on it. About a month ago I started getting annoying squealing sound. Must be brake pads: sound changed pitch based on vehicle speed, and not engine speed. Replaced pads, the squeal has gotten progressively louder.

Okay, maybe a front wheel bearing (best I can tell the sound is from up front somewhere!). But there is no change going around corners and during braking.

Confirmed the sound is from up front and is dependent on vehicle speed, not engine RPM. Interestingly, the sound seems to be coming through the firewall as when I roll the windows down, there is hardly a hint of it from outside. Yeah, I know, wind noise is drowning out the noise. But for as loud as it is inside the car, I would expect something outside; especially if it were wheel related.

Well, the firewall part of it got me thinking. About the only things left would be the drive train (output shaft on back since the noise tracks vehicle speed) or the speedometer cable. The noise is not there all the time (but now most of the time!), and kicks in about 20-25MPH.

Next time I am under to change the oil, I am planning on temporarily disconnecting the speedometer cable at the transmission to see if the problem goes away. But in the mean time, I would be interested in hearing if I might be on the right track. Anybody out there hear of a squealing speedometer cable?!

Thanks!

Don

Reply to
Don
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Yes. Usually just before the speedo needle starts jumping around wildly when at a steady speed. That is, in turn, usually followed shortly afterwards by the needle ceasing to move at all because the cable has snapped.

*POSSIBLE* temporary fix: run some lube (WD-40, if nothing else) down the casing. You *MAY* be able to save the cable (at least for a while) this way. Don't count on it being a permanent fix, though.

Better bet for saving it long-term: Remove both cable and casing from the car, pull the core out of the casing (if possible... due to variations in fittings from one make/model to the next, this may be a task that simply can't be done on your car) and coat it with high-temp grease before stuffing it back in the casing and re-installing the whole assembly. Again, not permanent, since there's certainly wear on the casing that's likely going to keep acting up until the cable core snaps and leaves you speedo-less.

Only "permanent" fix: Replace the cable and casing. Make sure you lube the cable before installation (again, if possible) so as to aviod needing to do the job again anytime soon.

Reply to
Don Bruder

Don,

Actually, and I should have mentioned this, the needle already jumps around wildly at a constant speed! Sounds like I am on the right track then. Maybe I will plan on having the car up on jacks for a couple of days when I do the oil change. The biggest pain is probably going to be pulling the instrument cluster to get to the speedometer end of the cable.

Thanks!!

Don

info.

Reply to
Don

Speedometer cable lubrication used to be part of normal maintenence (although seldom performed) back in the "old" days. It was typically recommended to only lube the lower 2/3 of the cable to prevent grase from working up into the speedometer head.

Reply to
Bill Kapaun

Don, You might want to replace that cable sooner than later if your speedometer has a post that the needle rests on. Reason being is that if the needle is jumping around it can actually hit the post and snap the needle off. I had this happen on a '79 GMC and trying to find a decent factory replacement speedometer required a bit of hunting around. Not to mention easily doubled the cost had I fixed it earlier.

Reply to
KS

Approximately 9/28/03 16:56, Don uttered for posterity:

Pull the transmission end and see if the gear is worn, if so it may be jamming/slipping. Other causes of jumping are a kink in the cable, a busted individual wire on the inner cable, a hunk of dirt etc. in the cable. For cables with a good seal on the bottom, a good graphite and grease or white moly and grease are pretty good. WD-40 makes a good solvent to *clean* the inner shaft, but then you would want to relube, which is easiest if you can completely pull the inner shaft and clean it, then lightly regrease. Some folks swear the only good cable lube is graphite or the white moly powder... no grease.

By the time you get it out, you might as well just replace the thing with a new one, carefully lubed. Prepare for a PITA task.

Reply to
Lon Stowell

I haven't had a problem like that since our '62 Corvair. It used to do exactly the same thing.

Charles in Palatine '93 Corolla '95 Previa

Reply to
Charles Fregeau

"PITA task"?

Don

Reply to
Don

(P)ain (I)n (T)he (A)ss

Reply to
Don Bruder

yup!

info.

Reply to
Don

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