Disc Brake rotor runout

Fortunately, servicing brakes isn't rocket science. Even I can do it. The problem for a lot of people is, out of sight, out of mind. You wouldn't believe how bad a lot of rotors look out there in carland. Of course the newer models aren't old enough to show neglected brake service, but older cars, most of them, look like death on wheels.

I have all the tools now to do the job right. I last checked them this past summer and they looked OK. But now I have the measuring stuff to go in there and really log some numbers.

I would rather _not_ leave this to some shop. The last time I took my car to Auto Clinic, they reamed my wallet, and reamed my vehicle. They did a butcher job on the rotors. I should have filed a complaint with the Better Business Bureau. But now that I know how to do this myself, it will be done correctly from now on.

I still have to flush my lines, and do have the equipment for that also. When I finish learning how to STOP A VEHICLE RELIABLY, then I will spend more time on learning how to make it GO reliably. This is a combination of study, and experience, and having the right tools.

Lg

Just went thru the same thing- bought on pressure chuck from snap-on and an tire pressure gauge and pressure chuck form S&K. All seem to read differently. If you can find one and want to pay for it a "master" tire gauge is what your sup;pose to check them against.

This seems to be a problem, digital vs. analog. People think that because their computers give them Accurate numbers that it follows that anything Digital is accurate. Well, that just isn't the case. The digital tire gauge can be off 7 pounds psi consistently, and who would know?

That is why I go by Tire Wear Patterns, and Steering and Handling.

I can feel if a front tire is over/under inflated by looking at the wear patterns of the tread, and feeling how much effort it takes to turn the steering wheel. IOW, IMO, the Ultimate Tire Pressure Gauge is your own tire treads.

Short of that, you pays your money and you takes your chances. This is one of the more important things about car maintenance, but because it is so simple to do, people ignore it. This is the material ( tire tread ) that stops you when you hit the brakes. Not enough tread in contact with the road (overinflation), and you've compromised your braking system, not matter how good everything else is about the car. Underinflate, and you wear off the sides very quickly, and the center of the tread isn't putting enough pressure on the road to do you much good.

So because of my own tire wear patterns, I'm running what my analog gauge says is 32 psi in my tires, instead of the 30 psi printed on the door sticker.

Maybe the gauge IS accurate, but for these tires, my vehicle, I need

I've noticed that if I run at 30 psi, the ride is mushy, and the outer edges of the tread wear off leaving the middle of the tread pretty much untouched. So those Two Measly Pounds of pressure make a difference, at least on my vehicle.

Regarding the gauge, I'll continue to use what I have, because no matter what the gauge says, that's only part of the problem. You have to look at treadwear patterns, steering and handling, ride comfort, and good footprint for braking. It all comes together, but the gauge

-alone- isn't the whole answer to the question. IMO.

Lg