Does brake fluid have a shelf life?

That may be a valid point. Its not the point as it has been stated up until now in this thread.

On Tue, 16 Dec 2008 09:21:25 -0600, Steve wrote:

These little "chats" always get distorted. I may be guilty myself. I have never dispensed any "wisdom" about scheduled maintenance, and always keep my vehicles maintained until they are bound for the scrapyard anyway. Before the '97 Lumina, my main car was an '88 Celebrity, and though it had 190k miles (160k I put on it) I would drive it anywhere without worry at the drop of a hat. But it was rusted out, so I scrapped it, running like a top. The Corsica never even goes on the highway. It goes to local stores, and is useful for that only. I do find it amusing that it keeps chugging along despite my neglect. My real point was about what I think is some bullshit about flushing brake systems. And I conceded that if it is scheduled maintenance for your car, do it. As far as I know GM doesn't have it as a scheduled item, though I see plenty of GM dealers advertising $79.95 flushes. And I actually have no problem with anybody doing any kind of even excessive preventative maintenance if it makes them happy. Hell, I rebuilt my 352 because I didn't like the look of the oil. And I take all your descriptions of brake component corrosion seriously. Personally, I'd R&R all brake system components on a schedule instead of messing with fluid flushes - if my cars lasted that long. Now, on reflection, and knowing you have more experience than me, and aside from the issue of factory recommended schedules, I'll agree with the brake system flushes on the condition that the more modern brake system components would make that cost effective. IOW, R&R is very expensive It hasn't been with my cars, but could be on others.

--Vic

when you change brakepads/shoes/ it's a good idea to open the bleeder and not push dirty fluide back up the line, that is the perfect time to let some more fluid bleed out and replace it...

yeah you can leave the coolant in there, I did that, and I found it's a lot more work to change out a rusted radiator and heater core than it is to change the coolant every few years...

Mark

Actually it is in the service manuals.

GM doesn't list a full system flush/fill, however they do state that if you change ANY hard part (line, caliper, wheel cylinder, ABS module, master cylinder) that you use new fluid and flush/bleed until you see new fluid.

Ford says need to flush and change fluid varies depending on the area of the country (no moisture problem in Arizona but there is in Florida), and also on the robustness (corrosion resistance) of the parts in the brake system. Ford's service life for brake fluid is 10 years, 150,000 miles in an undisturbed system.

Chrysler depends on which platform and brake system you have. They have different intervals.

Most of them also spec DOT 3 fluid, Why not DOT4? Because DOT 4 absorbs moisture at a faster rate then DOT 3.

You got that right!!

It's not just a good idea; I believe that this is recommended procedure for any ABS-equipped vehicle. Hose debris in the HCU = badness. Even if you don't bleed, crack the bleeders to push the pistons back, and top up the master cylinder when you're done.

nate

On Tue, 16 Dec 2008 23:51:35 -0800 (PST), z wrote:

Yes, and that reminds me of something. The first brake job I did in '92 I let a shop near my work do it because I was too busy and in an apartment. Charged me for pads/shoes/labor. I doubt they touched the fluid. It was Meineke. Only time I ever went there again is for exhaust work, which they've done well for me. Couple years later I have a home/garage/time, and check the pads, which seem too far worn for 2 years of my style driving. I pull the drums, and find absolutely no wear on the shoes. They're brand new except for slight feathering on the leading edge. The self-adjusting lever is missing from both rears. Meinecke probably had a kid do my brakes, and when he got embarrassed about not knowing how to put it back together, he tossed the levers. Went to a boneyard and got "new" levers for 20 cents or something, cleaned/lubed everything up and got them adjusting again. Think GM would only sell the entire assembly. Can't remember if that was e-brake cable or reversing activated. I popped the MC cap and watched the fluid when I squeezed the calipers the first time, never bothered again. Two more sets of pads but no shoes before I junked it. Rotors for the last brake job, 20 bucks each. I don't let pads/shoes get but about half way to the rivets, and the cylinders never extend much. Never replaced a caliper or wheel cylinder on any of my cars, though I have on others'. But the longest I've had a car is 11 years. Never had any brake fluid related issues. But remember, I hardly ever stand on my brakes. Twice in quick succession after a brake job, but only from about 45 mph has been my practice. So YMMV. My brother, who was a pro mechanic and replaced a lot of MC's, has a theory that many failures occurred shortly after the owners were bleeding their brakes and repeatedly fully extended the MC while bleeding. Might be worth thinking about. All this is simple personal anecdote, because you asked. Doesn't mean squat. Not recommending how anybody handle their brakes or fluid. Except know your brake system or take it to a good shop.

--Vic

I agree with that. I wouldn't pump bleed any MC in an older car unless I was certain that the owner had done periodic fluid changes. The story that I've heard is that the bore can develop rust in the area beyond the normal travel area of the seals, so when you put the pedal all the way to the floor the seal wipes over that slight corrosion and then it'll start slowly sinking to the floor a few weeks later. I've had that happen to me on two different cars before I smartened up. Even if the car has been well maintained I FAR prefer to use a pressure bleeder. Motive Products makes an inexpensive one that works well, bleeding is now a one man job, and no worries about wiping out the seals in the MC. I just take my pressure bleeder, a length of windshield washer tubing, and an empty soda bottle (the latter two items to catch the fluid that comes out of the bleeder screw and watch color/presence or absence of air) and have at it. I'll be swapping the snow tires onto the Porsche as soon as I have a weekend day when it's not raining; while I'm doing that it's trivial to hook up the pressure bleeder and crack each caliper's bleeder screw as I have the wheels off.

nate