This is a cute one given to me by my co-worker. Now, I could swear that this model car should have an OBD-II, but he says he is only getting a single digit error code out of it, and that code is 8.
As you can see, he has got the car to the point where it will start up and briefly run for a second before dying. My first guess was that the ECU was shutting the engine down, but then the only thing that I can think of that hasn't already been checked was the tampering he did with the mysterious distriutor adjustment.... and I can't see how that would do anything other than screw the timing up, which shouldn't cause this sort of symptom. Should it?
Anyway, with no further ado....
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1989 Ford Probe 2.2 L 4 cylinder, non-turbo, manual transmission fuel injected Mazda engine with a Mitsubishi distributorAbout a month ago, the Probe started bucking/running rough for a day or two. Then, one evening it quit completely and would not start again?it appeared to not be firing at all.
The first thing we checked was the spark, and there appeared to be no spark. Therefore, we did the following after towing it home:
(1) Put in new plugs (they needed replacing anyway) (2) Installed new ignition wires. (3) Installed new rotor button and cap (4) Replaced coil
All these changes apparently had no effect at all--the engine would not fire at all. And there was still no spark. We returned the new coil to the auto parts store.
Next, we took out the ignition module from the distributor and had it tested at the auto parts store. The ignition module tested bad, so we bought a new module and installed it. The engine still showed no signs of starting. In working on the distributor we loosened and then retightened the screw in the recess in the end of the center shaft. This screw appears to be off center and maybe stripped. What is the purpose of this screw?
Next we ordered a used computer over the internet. When we swapped out the computers, the engine still showed no sign of starting. We put the old computer back in the car?the used computer from the internet is in the trunk.
Next, we replaced the coil again, and this time the engine started and immediately died. We tried holding the Vane Air Flow (aka mass air flow sensor) door open while we attempted to start the car, but this had no effect?the engine still appeared to start and then died immediately. Then, we went through the computer modes checkout and got the check engine light to blink
8 times over and over. This according to some information we got over the internet indicated the Vane Air Flow sensor was defective. We bought a used Vane Air Flow sensor from a junkyard and replaced the original one. Again, this had no effect?the engine appeared to start and then immediately would die. We put the original Vane Air Flow sensor back in the car?the used Vane Air Flow Sensor is in the trunk. We also tried unplugging the connector to the Vane Air Flow Sensor, but this had no effect either. We inspected the hose going from the Vane Air Flow Sensor to the throttle body and could see no leaks.We then took the pickup ignition coil out of the distributor and measured its resistance at 500 ohms while the Haynes manual said it should be 900-1200 ohms. However, the replacement coil also measured 500 ohms so we didn?t buy it and put the original coil back in the distributor.
Even though we could smell gas when the engine tried to start, we checked the fuel pump by listening at the filler opening. We couldn?t hear anything when the ignition switch was turned on. The emergency fuel cutoff switch in the trunk does not appear to have been tripped.
We then had the car towed to a garage. They put a gage on the fuel line after the filter and it read 35 psi. They next checked the pressure on the other side of the filter and it read 35 psi also. They said the pressure should be much higher (I believe 65 psi). Therefore, they replaced the fuel pump, but the car still wouldn?t start. They put the old fuel pump back in and refused to work on the car anymore. They mentioned that they could not hear the fuel pump either and that it should run for a few seconds whenever the ignition switch is turned on.
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Once again, we have a bunch of degreed engineers sitting around trying to figure out why a car won't start. Any suggestions on this one?