Galvanized conduit or iron pipe from the plumbing section as a breaker bar extender?

Any reason why I'd want to pick one vs the other to use as a breaker bar extender? I'm leaning towards the iron pipe, but only because I can I an buy it in a 4 ft or 6 ft lengths in the plumbing section. The conduit is only available in 10ft sections, and I don't need a breaker bar extener that long.

Reply to
zzyzzx
Loading thread data ...

Conduit isn't strong enough, it will peel open at the bottom end. Been there, tried that. I have a 5' chunk of iron pipe.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos:
formatting link
Reply to
Mike Romain

i'm sure you both know this but this will void any warranty on your breaker bar. My 1/2" breaker bar has a slight twist in it because of such activites :) My 3/4" one seems to be OK so far :) Just inspect your tools well before using Excessive Force (tm) on them; you don't want to lose an eye when, say, the pin holding the square drive to the bar itself shatters.

nate

Reply to
N8N

zzyzzx wrote in news:451d18dc-4b40-4c5d-8cf7- snipped-for-privacy@m44g2000hsc.googlegroups.com:

Like Mike says, conduit's too weak. Go with the iron pipe.

When you go to the hardware store, take your intended tool with you so you can make sure it goes all the way into the iron pipe, all the way down to the square drive end. Also, some pipecutting equipment puts an internal burr on the pipe, which necks it down considerably. You may have to file or hacksaw that off to get the tool to fit.

Reply to
Tegger

The iron pipe is stronger. The part about fit is important. The pipe should not be too loose a fit because you will get an extreme angle that takes more room to swing. Depending on what you are doing you probably don't need too much pipe. I like one that can be stored on the breaker bar and just come to the end so it doesn't take up a lot of room. This is usually enough. If you really need more force then the 3/4 bar will be needed. Next, of course, is a 1 inch bar. If you get that far along maybe you can sell tickets.

I've broken several bars. They usually fracture or twist and need to be thrown away. Once I did have one snap apart at the head in use but I still don't think there is much danger. Just plan for this. It can happen.

I returned a Snap On bar that was really old. It had been welded together by someone and they gave me a new modern one. Still have it.

disston

Reply to
disston

At least as important as the material is the pipe schedule - wall thickness. Use the following chart to help you properly size the ID of the pipe to the OD of your tool

formatting link

Reply to
doug

Any piece of pipe that is long enough and big enough is what I use for a cheater pipe.I keep a piece of four feet long galvanized (because it is a piece of pipe I already had laying around) cheater pipe in my van for my four way lug nut wrench, for lug nuts that the tire shops put on there too tight.I leep a smaller piece of cheater pipe in one of my tool boxes for my wrenches, for nuts and bolts that are too tight.Cheater pipes are some of the best tools ever.So are big hammers and crowbars. cuhulin

Reply to
cuhulin

Reply to
man of machines

The iron pipe I bought worked. I had no troube removing an axle nut with it.

Thanks!

Reply to
zzyzzx

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.