Defender 200Tdi Fuel Pump Timing

In message , Jon writes

Buy the proper timing pins. Read the manual. It will take you only a few mins to set up. Then you know it is done properly.

Cost 20 quid pos a bit more.

Or take it to any independent who will have the pins and pay them to do it.

It is only a five second job

messing around you will end up doing more damage.

there is a slot in the pump gear and a hole in the backing plate which when the timing gears are lined up will pass the pump gear hole over a hole in the pump body , in which you locate a pin in order to lock pump and shaft in position .

this is all done with No1 cyl at top dead centre .

the locking pin is about 10mm diameter and so you can use a drill if you like to lock the pump in place .

the 3 bolts in the pump gear are there to allow the gear to move and align itself in the timing belt without altering the injector pump timing , however when tensiong a new timing belt you may alter the cam timing by a very small amount but this is normal and seems not to be worried about to some degree ..

the woodruff key on the crankshaft will be at 12 clock position when engine is at top dead centre and the camshaft gear aligns with mark on block .

if you take off top of rocker cover you can watch the rockers moving as you turn engine over by hand and when No1 cyl is at top dead centre neither rocker on No1 cylinder will be moving , if they are rocking you need to go one more turn over until both are closed and note the crank keyway to come up to 12 oclock , ie directly on top towards sky .

in gearbox bellhousing underneath the landrover , is a tapped hole , when engine is at top dead centre youll see a slot in the flywheel aligns with centre of hole, this needs to be locked also, using a pin .

if you were to buy either a DIFFLOCK timing pin & puller kit at 99 quid , it has all pins and pullers necessary to retime landy diesels from N/ A 200/300TDI , or if you look on internet there are BERGEN timing pin kits available for landys .

youll need a crank pulley puller to remove the crank harmonic damper/pulley and a 27mm socket to undo the crank pulley retaining bolt .

you can screw the crank bolt back in so you can turn engine over for timing purposes, no need to remove glow plugs , you can turn engine over using knuckle bar and socket .

dont forget to tighten the crank pulley bolt nice and tight after .

to get crank pulley bolt undone , a sharp blow with lump hammer to knuckle bar will loosen it . use a little loctite on the thread when you reinstall crank bolt .

dont forget to remove the flywheel locking pin before you rotate engine .

no need to remove timing belt in order to retime injector pump so long as you havent rotated it by more than the gear slot allows .

if you are not intending on taking crank pulley etc off to adjust injector pump timing , then watch rockers on no1 cyl to indicate coming up to top dead, look under gearbox housing hole and line up flywheel slot and lock in place if poss , then loosen 3 pump gear bolts and rotate pump shaft locking nut back so to align with timing pin hole and lock in place with pin .

then you can retighten 3 pump gear bolts and remove locking pins .

if you find the power is very high but you have lots of black smoke from exhaust at all ranges , undo the fuel metering screw on rear of pump and go out 1/4 turn at a time until smoke dissappears . youll have to strike balance between power and smoke and so it may take a few attempts to get satisfactory .

this screw is on rear of pum near the injector pipe unions , it has a

13mm locknut and a screwthread extending out about 25mm , there is screwdriver slot in end of thread , you hold locknut loose with spanner and then unscrew or screw the thread in or out as desired . IN for more fuel, OUT for less .

the "smoke adjuster" is on top of pump housing,there is a small [gold] blanking cap [15mm dia] on top of casting which has the 4 screws in , pry cap out with screwdriver and youll see 13mm locknut with a 8mm TORX grub screw , this screw is screwed in for more fuel and out for less , locknut may be loctited and so might need a bit of effort to undo .

inside pump, under top casting , ie the housing on top of pump which has 4 screws holding it down , is a diaphragm and shaft and a starwheel adjuster which alters fuel delivery rates .

the metal plate holding rubber diaphragm has a dot mark on it and the diaphragm can be rotated to change fuel metering rates , this will be pointing somewhere between 12 oclock [to rocker cover] and 6 oclock [towards wing ] , the leanest position is towards rocker cover and richest towards wing .

just take it that youll position it somewhere from 12 oclock to 6 oclock , it does not screw in and out but rotates around a 360deg axis .

you can pull the diaphragm assembly out by hand , in one piece with rubber and shaft attatched .

on shaft youll note a tapered and eccentric shape of shaft , this rests against a pin down in the pump itself and alters fuel rates according to position the taper or eccentric is in .

the turbo boost pressure is applied upon diaphragm via pipe on side of top housing and thus pushes shaft down using the diaphragm , allowing pin in pump to come in and allow more fuel thru as revs and boost pressure increase etc .

under diaphragm youll see large spring , this is just placed in there and can be removed/reinstalled easily .

under spring youll see a starwheel adjuster , this has a click stop adjustment and if you pry the lock spring using screwdriver you can rotate the starwheel .

to lessen spring pressure effect of starwheel you will screw the starwheel in clockwise , but only about 1/2 turn at a time and noting smoke from exhaust [under load] after adjustment .

to lessen spring effect you undo the starwheel .

this starwheel alters the spring pressure against the diaphragm and alters where the turbo boost is allowed to move the diaphragm downwards to increase fuel flow .

basically only minor adjustment of starwheel should need to be made , if any adjustment .

there is a white nylon spacer on the metering shaft and dont forget to make sure it is still fitted when refitting metering shaft/diaphragm and spring assembly , as it stops length of travel of metering shaft .

the main adjustment that makes most difference is the full load adjustment on rear of pump , if unscrewed too far youll note lack of pull when in top gear at low [25mph ] speed when on flat road .

hope that is easy enough to understand.

ive been adjusting my pump for maximum economy , so all my adjustments have been in reverse . previous owner screwed everything IN , yes it went like stink but i only got 23mpg locally and lees on motorway driving .

cheers , ian .

.

Ian, A VERY comprehensive post. Many Thanks.

I think I will avoid removing the timing belt again as its only a month or two since it was last off (to replace that pesky water gasket between block and timing case).

That said, I will TDC it and make sure all markers line up as they should. I suspect they do because it runs sweet.

From reading your post, as I understand it, my engine is setup right (timing wise) if woodruff key is at 12 o'clock, slot in flywheel is visible and a 10mm drill can be placed right into the fuel pump all whilst cylinder No1 is at TDC. Is this right?

If I can get to this stage or verify that it is correct then I will be happy to leave it like this until I can get the new intercooler and get someone else who knows more what they are doing to "tweak".

Thanks a lot, Jon

so m0bcg was, like...

I believe it's 9mm.

X-No-Archive: Yes

Hi Ian,

a very educational posting there; not easy to understand the pump adjustments in their entirety though; it looks as though there are 4 adjustments:

1. fuel metering screw on back of pump
2. "smoke adjuster" on top of pump under cap
3. diaphragm
4. starwheel

I think I understand that the fuel metering screw is a 'global' adjustment, so alters the amount of fuel at all revs;

that the 'smoke adjuster' is similar? Although how do they relate? I had understood that smoke was mainly a sign of unburnt fuel [overfueling];

that the diaphragm/starwheel alter the response curve / sensitivity of the fuel delivery to higher revs [+ turbo in a turbo engine, I hope the NA pump is similar in that respect], although how does diaphragm adjustment relate to starwheel adjustment?

On my NAD, I'm seeing heaps of black smoke at startup, when even mildly labouring at low revs, when putting on a bit more power at high revs [at altitude particularly]. The engine doesn't seem as though it's "adjusted for power" although perhaps a 65hp engine wouldn't! My priority is keeping the neighbours happy [reducing the smoke] although fuel economy would be nice.

cheers

Mark

Archived very detailed resource for pump adjustments:

Regards

Mark

I always find its best to adjust the pump for maximum power, so its there if you need it, then adjust the right boot for maximum economy!

Try this lot as well.........

(some of it relates to dodge ram's. but its the same pump, and the same adjustments)

Also my little tip here, when adjusting the starwheel, all the instructions say you have to remove the diaphragm, this is unnecessary, it can be adjusted by removing the breather plug under the diaphragm, using a small flat screwdriver to turn it. There are 40 notches on the wheel, so turning it 10 clicks at a time gives 1/4 turn adjustments. Only a small point I know, but not having to strip the top while you are trying to find the best adjustment saves quite a bit of time!

I've never archived so much useful stuff !! Thanks Lads. Going to be handy.

Steve

This is an amazing link to turbo theory too.

Steve