Hello. I seem to have a bad radiator on my 93 Buick Regal 3.8. Once hot and under pressure its leaking from around the top hose neck into the top of the rad. Its not the hose because it stays dry while the rib right below starts to get wet and then runs down the engine side of the rad. Its hard to get a good look because of the fresh air inlet and filter that sets right there. Autozone lists the cost at right around 200. I would imagine add 500 pus on to that if I have a shop replace. Theres an engine brace that runs right across the top from the engine to the front frame so I dont know how hard this would be for a do it yourself'er? Greg
I'm looking at the very same job myself on my '90 Cutlass, which I think is basically the same vehicle/job. The radiator looks to me like it's plastic, bummer, as solder-seal won't work on it. I too see antifreeze running along one of the ribs on the drivers side. The engine brace has three bolts, remove the two up front and loosen the one in back and swing it out of the way, no biggy. Today, I just removed the forward portion (snorkel-like) of the air intake duct-work, this gave me some clearance, plus it was touching the tranny tube which started to melt a hole in this forward duct-work (which is now sitting on the floor somewhere in my garage :-). I don't know how hard it will be to remove the rad, but I will be doing it this weekend.
E-mail me if you want to ask how it went. -PapaRick
Guys, this is a CAKE WALK job! I've made TONS of money doing this job on flat rate. I think it pays something ridiculous like 2.5 hours and I have it done in 30 min. including filling the cooling system!
Easy-peasy! First drain the cooling system by opening the pet-c*ck on the radiator. Remove the lower hose from the radiator. Remove the upper hose from the radiator. Disconnect the ATX cooler lines.
Take the bolt out of the dog bone (motor mount) and let the engine flop back (make sure you've blocked the wheels!) and then you can remove the bracket for the mount. Remove the plastic cover and the upper brackets for the radiator.
Disconnect the fan wiring, remove the radiator assembly, remove the fan assembly fromthe radiator.
Next, call around and find a _BRASS_ radiator for a replacement! Call you local radiator shops, try to stay away from the retail parts stores because most of them will sell you a plastic tanked unit with the same damned problem as the OE part you're re- placing! At this point I'd suggest replacing the radiator cap, and perhaps the upper hose. Definitely replace the spring clamps with worm-gear style. This is the stuff that's just nickels and dimes but guaranteed to go bad if you don't replace it (Murphy's law!).
Installation in reverse order.
I'd suggest filling the cooling system with the heater running and make sure that the cooling fan cycles at least three times before calling it quits.
Andy. Thanks for the info on the rad swap. Is it possible to pull the rad out with the fans still attached? It doesnt look like theres enough clearance between the front support and the front of the engine? Your not in the San Francisco area of CA are you? Greg
If I Recall Correctly (IIRC) you _CAN_ pull it out together, with a little bit of wiggling and what not. It might be easier for you to take the fan off seperately. It should be held by only two screws at the top and slot/pegs at the bottom.
Sorry, nope. I'm in Minnesota. Although I did live in Milpitas for three years as a teenager! :)
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