I agree, replace the parts and replace anything that is doubtful. In this case, that means rebuilt calipers and all new hardware. You will still be way ahead moneywise and you won't have to think about the rear brakes for another 100K miles.
On Mon, 18 Aug 2003 15:53:18 -0500, Andrew Paule wrote:
|After you pump the brake pedal a couple of times - your pads should give |some clearance, and you should be able to freely rotate the wheel. But |you have a more serious problem, and you need to replace the caliper, or |do a good hone job on the cylinder (if this is your first time, you will |probably not be able to do it well, I did this years ago and lost my |brakes) and replace all seals in the caliper. The glider pins (either |called locating pins or locating pin bushings, don't really know which |you are refering to) also need looking at - I replace the bushings when |I do the brakes on my cars - cheap parts. I think you may have the same |problem again soon if you do not replace the caliper - the mechanic is |right, and a caliper will only set you back 50 bucks. You also need to |bleed the system fully after an ABS brake system change (service manual). | |Andrew | |Dario Cervoni wrote: | |> I've finally gave in and changed my own brakes on my 95 Ford Taurus. |> Changed the rear rotors and pads (ABS). Right side pads worn down to |> metal and left side had plenty of pad. Caliper piston on right side |> siezed so I brought it to a mechanic to re-seat it flush but it was |> very, very difficult to move (he said it ideally should be replaced) |> I managed to re-seat left caliper piston without too, too much trouble |> but did find one of the glider pins on the left anchor plate had |> siezed up. Now to my question(s) - being that this is my first brake |> job and considering the very uneven pad wear and reusing an "unsiezed" |> caliper, I'm not certain how much drag/resistence should exist when I |> turn the rotor or the wheel after it's remounted - there is more way |> more "grab" than I think there should be. Are the pads always |> supposed to stay in contact with rotors and if so how much? Emergency |> brakes seem to have correct tension, but is it possible they need |> adjusting if drag excessive? |>
|> Thanks - D. Cervoni |>
|
Rex in Fort Worth