How to remove valves on Ford 3.0L Pushrod

Any help would be appreciated on information of how to remove the valves on the engine. I am trying to replace the valve stem seals. It's a 12-valve Ford pushrod V6 from a 1998 Taurus.

Thanks in advance, Tim

Reply to
botardtim
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the mechanical field so these ideas are precations you should take before you remove the valve spring retainers.( " FIRST THINGS YOU NEED ARE THE PROPER TOOLS, WHICH INCLUDE A VALVE SPRING COMPRESSOR, AND YOU NEED TO TAKE PRECAUTIONS SO YOU DON'T LET ANY OF THE VALVES FALL DOWN INTO THE CYCLINDERS INSIDE THE ENGINE!!!" ) You can do this one of three ways that I know of ,1st. one is the hardest, take the cyclinder head off, 2nd one take the spark plugs out and get the cyclinder you are working on so it is on the power stroke going down, KEEP COMPRESSED AIR in the cyclinder you are working on so it holds AIR PRESSURE AGAINST THE HEADS OF THE VALVES so they don't open,("THE VALVES CANNOT LEAK ANY AIR OR THE COMPRESSED AIR WILL NOT HOLD THEM CLOSED") the third, I have only used when I didn't have compressed air on site, ( "YOU WILL HAVE TO USE YOUR OWN JUDGEMENT ON THIS ONE, FEED SMALL ROPE INTO THE CYCLINDER YOU ARE WORKING ON, TURN THE ENGINE OVER BY HAND!!!! UNTIL THE ROPE IS HOLDING THE VALVES CLOSED!!!") Now like I said at the beginning I don't know how much experience you have had in this field so please seek help if you need it. Have a Great Day, Bill

Reply to
billscorpio

Remove the heads, take them to a machine shop. Have the valves faced while your at it and the heads decked.

Bob

Reply to
Bob Urz

All that just for valve STEM SEALS?!?!? When they can be replaced without removing the head OR the valves?

If it needed valve GUIDES, then yes I'd do all the above, but not just for the little rubber oil seals.

Reply to
Steve

My suggestion would be that he have the work performed by someone who will be able to diagnose the problem and know how to fix it.

Reply to
John S.

Since I have the same engine as the OP, I looked in my Service Manual for the procedure. Special Tools are required, and it is more involved than a text-only usenet group can handle properly. Lots of diagrams, arrows, torque specifications for this and that, and so on.

IF it were just the seals, I think it is doable as a DIY, BUT if it turns out to be something else...something more involved, IOW the OP gets it all apart to find out that something else is wrong, then there is the problem.

1998 Taurus. There are 3 possible engines in that vehicle, and they might be a little different from eachother, or a _lot_ different from eachother. I wouldn't go after this myself unless my vehicle was out of warranty, -and-, I had another car to drive around while I played with the vehicle in question...not knowing how long it would take to repair, and not having the *special tools* on hand, although I'm sure they can be rented or bought for little money.

Lg

Reply to
Lawrence Glickman

Exactly. Plus the very way the question was phrased indicates the poster has little experience with major repairs on engines. He's better off having someone else do the work.

Reply to
John S.

My first question would be: why do you want to replace the valve stem seals on a Ford pushrod 3.0L? If they are worn that bad, it would be one of the damn few of those I've heard of that needed seals.

My next question would be whether you have at least intermediate mechanical skils and a good shop manual. The easy way to replace the seals assuming you have run compression test etc to confirm the engine is in otherwise good condition is to use an adapter for compressed air to the spark plug hole. After you have removed the rocker cover and both rockers on the cylinder you are working on, air pressure will keep the valves closed. If the engine does not have excessive leakage by the pistons and valves and it does not have a blown head gasket, you will need minimal air volume to hold at least 90 psi on the cylinder. Use a universal spring compressor to release the lock and remove the collets. Do not drop one of these little jewels

- it is possible for it to get all the way to the oil pan where it may or may not raise havoc later. Work one valve at a time. You will have to rotate the engine for each cylinder you work on.

You can use the rope trick mentioned by another poster but you should be sure to use antikink rope to ensure you can get it all back out. Make sure you leave some of the rope sticking to grab onto when you are done. My first attempt at using this procedure resulted in removing the head to get the rope out. (I sometimes have not learned what I know the easy way!)

Lugnut

Reply to
lugnut

The OP started an update thread that you must have missed. He said: "I probably should have enlightened a bit better from my last post. I am replacing a head gasket, and I do have the heads off"

-jim

Reply to
jim

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