I will have a long distance drive in 3 days and I will change the oil first
time in my life, because last time the oil change in a store messed up my
car and i will never go there again.
I will change the oil myself sunday morning. Please answer the two quesitons
How tight should be the Oil Filter and the Drain Plug? I heard if I tighten
it too much, it will crach the interface. I heard there is something called
touque test, but I don't have it and can not afford it. So, show me an easy
and cheap way to measure the tightness and touque.
Tighten the oil filter hand tight. It helps if you have strong hands. On the
plug tighten it firmly. About an eighth of a turn after snugging it down hand
Tighten it until it strips and back off a quarter turn. That's a joke. If you
plan to do a lot of your own mechanic work in the future, you may want to
purchase a torque wrench. It sure makes things a lot easier. Good luck.
People sleep peacefully in their beds at night because rough men stand ready to
do violence on their behalf......George Orwell.
Tighten the oil filter as tight as you can with your bare non-oily hand.
Put a light coat of oil on the gasket first. Also, make sure the old
gasket is still on the old oil filter and not stuck to the adapter.
Tighten the drain plug snugly. Most people over tighten them. Check
everything for leaks (running) after. You'll get more of the old out oil
faster if the engine is warm.
Greetings - Here are some basic instructions for installation of an
oil filter. FIRST - simply tighten the filter by hand until it
bottoms out. That does not mean that you're trying to make it tight.
It just means that you spin it on by hand until it stops turning
easily or freely. You'll know when you have reached that point,
because beyond that point, you'll need to apply some extra force to
turn it. Now - once you are satisfied that the filter has bottomed
out, then you can tighten it. To tighten it, you turn it about
three-quarters of a turn beyond bottoming out. You really don't need
anything other than a filter wrench to go that last three-quarters of
Here's a tip that may help you to gauge 3/4 of a turn. Make a mark on
the end of the filter (magic marker is the easiest way). That way,
you have a reference point for judging when you have gone about 3/4
turn....kind of like watching a clock hand turn.
Also - follow the directions on the filter box...they will ask you to
put a bit of fresh oil on the gasket. Make sure you spread it around
the whole gasket.
Another potential problem - when you remove the OLD filter, make sure
that the old gasket also comes off with the filter. If you were to
install a new filter on top of a remaining old gasket, you would
likely have a leak. Good luck.
Could anyone tell me what the gashket on the oil filter you guys are talking
about? I have not seen any loss gashket on it. I have only see a black
I already did the change. I don't have a strong hand and I was only able to
turn 3/8 turn after using my hand.
Nobody warned me that when I took off the oil filter, the oil is coming out
in a way bigger than the plug. I handled the plug pretty well, and I thought
there would not be much in the filter after I drain the pan. But I got oil
all over the floor after the filter out.
1 My civic says: I need 3.5 quarter oil, but I think I still have some dirty
oil left in the engine, it takes forever for the final drops... They kept
droping for very long time. Should I only put 3.4 or 3.3 oil in the engine
to let some space for the old oil?
2 Bigger issue with my Jack. I use a jack came with the car. You know the
little hand jack. I bought 2 jackstands from warmart for 8 dollars total. I
put 1 jackstand at the jacking point, and increase the car at a near point
which is not the jack point of the car withe the little jack. I found the
little jack damaged the floor coating (anti rust coating or anti fire
coating) I think the main reason is that only the reinforced jackpoint can
handle the huge presure... Anyone can tell me how to use the little jack and
jackstand without damage the bottom coating? Or the coating does not really
That's the gasket. Occasionally it'll stick and get left behind and
leak like a son-of-a-gun when you start it up.
That's about enough. If you use a filter wrench and reef it on, you'll
never get it off.
You didn't ask. I've had a gust of wind blow the stream away from the
drain pan and all over the floor. Some kind of natural phenomenon. :)
That's normal. Very hard to avoid making a mess with some engines.
I would put in 3 quarts, and then a bit at a time until it's at full on
the dipstick. The last teaspoon does take forever to drain. If you
your oil regularly, don't worry about it. I usually let it drain for
about 10-15 minutes - I check the tires and all the other fluids to keep
Sorry if I sound sarcastic - I don't mean to be. If you know nothing about
servicing your car I would start of with reading up on it, either in a basic
book or on the internet. If you do the wrong thing with the service you can
damage your car or, as in the case of using a car jack incorrectly, hurt
yourself. Please do some basic, then more specific, reading on tune ups.
Was you motor hot when you did the oil change? Hot oil will flow better than
cold oil. BE CAREFUL! Hot oil will burn you.
You would probably have been better off getting ramps if all you plan on
doing is changing the oil. What you shold do is check your owners manual and
see if they have pictures of more than one area under the car that can support
the weight of the car.
You've received some typically excellent advice.
I would like to add that before screwing on the new filter you should make
sure the rubber gasket is seated properly all around the filter groove.
Also, after screwing on the filter and refilling the oil, re-check the oil
level, as the filter will have taken in some of it.
Tighten the filter by hand. There should be instructions on the filter body
on how to do this. They usually recommend turning the filter 3/4 turns after
the gasket contacts the base. The drain plug needs to be tight enough to
not leak. :) I know that answer doesn't sound like what you want to hear, but
unless you have done it before or have a torque wrench, it is hard to describe
Strip the threads is what I call it, but whatever.
It is hard to judge the correct torque if you have never done any work
like this before. I use a ratchet wrench with 3/8 inch drive, and pull on
it maybe about half as hard as I can. Probably about 50 pounds of pressure
applied to the end of the wrench from my hand, giving a torque probably
around 40 foot-pounds since my ratchet wrench is a little under a foot
long. At the professional oil change places, they put it a lot tighter,
but tightening it myself like this, I have only once ever had a problem of
it vibrating loose, and that time I probably forgot to tighten it with the
wrench or something. When you loosen it, it will probably take all your
effort to get it loose, since you had a professional do it last time. When
you put it back, make it about 1/2 to 3/4 as tight as it was.
For the filter, just do like someone else wrote, tighten until the gasket
contacts the metal, then about 3/4 turn more.
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