Had a new clutch put in my 2WD 1993 Dodge Stealth a month ago -
$900.00. It starts the day just fine with no slipping and quick
acceleration. After about 10-20 miles it starts slipping terribly in
all gears where the RPM's go from 2000 to 4000 without ANY
Why does this happen only after 10-20 miles are driven? Is it
overheating? Could it be the wrong clutch parts? Is it overheating? Do
I have a leak of some kind (I see no fluid on the driveway)? Thanks for
A suggestion, but you would need a mechanic to prove it.
The cluth mechanism is designed so that in its normal position it is
When you press the clutch pedal the clutch plates are pulled apart and
held apart by the hydraulic system.
When the pedal is released the mechanism pulls the cluth plates into
If the hydraulics is not releasing properly the plates may be held
This may be a build up of pressure after multiple uses of the clutch.
It should be able to be duplicated by sitting in the driveway and
pressing and releasing the clutch pedal. In Nuetral with the parking
After 10 - 20 cycles press the clutch in and put it in gear, then see
if it slips.
Personally I would take it back to the shop that did the work and get
them to fix it. hopefully for no cost as a guarenteed repair.
firstname.lastname@example.org writes in article
Hydraulic clutch, right?
It sounds like there could be air in the system, something that expands when
it gets warm. If that's the case it needs to be "bled". This is something
that the shop should do, since it was probably their carelessness which
allowed air into the system.
-- spud_demon -at- thundermaker.net
The above may not (yet) represent the opinions of my employer.
On 14 Jul 2005 16:00:36 -0700, email@example.com wrote:
Exactly the problem with my dad's '87 Nissan Pickup....there was too
much air in the system, so the clutch wouldn't disengage from the
Sounds like maybe the pressure plate is either bad or not installed
Who did this installation, Chris? What do they tell you?
Seems pretty expensive. I found a clutch kit for that car for about
$200, but there could be cheaper and more expensive. Did you
go with some sort of trick aftermarket clutch?
I agree with another poster that overheating in the hydraulics to the
Let us know what you find.
Thank you all for your wonderful suggestions. No word from the mechanic
yet - he hasn't looked at it yet. This is actually the fourth time I
have been back there this month about the new clutch (once before for
slipping and twice for clutch pedal not springing back completely (O.K.
now) - each time he went to the floor pedal to make adjustments on what
he says is "a wierd clutch pedal setup"). The mechanic was puzzled 2
days ago when I returned again and explained that the new clutch he
installed slips ONLY after ten miles, yet when I went back yesterday to
review with him all of your thoughtful posts he said "I never needed no
internet to fix a car" (sigh). I think he agreed to try and bleed the
hydraulic system first cause your suggestions that the cause may be air
in the lines that heats and expands after ten miles is a great
diagnosis and could be explained by a sloppy clutch installation. While
there I started it up cold and then pressed and released the clutch
pedal 30 times to try the suggestion re pressure buildup from multiple
uses of the clutch. I then drove it (still cold) - no slipping until
5-10 miles of driving. There is no visual leakage but still could be a
problem with the hydraulics - (?? cylinder, plunger, or whatever all is
involved). Maybe the clutch is overheating due to poor installation or
wrong parts. The clutch fork had snapped and was replaced at the same
All parts should hopefully be stock - this ain't no race car (though my
black Dodge Stealth is pretty and has PA license plate BATM0BL). Total
cost = $900.00. Clutch kit = $262; Clutch fork (was snapped)= $71;
Resurface flywheel = $75; Labor (5.5 hours at $75/hr) = $412.50; Shop
supplies = $11; PA Sales Tax = $50.
Will repost once it is fixed and no longer slips after ten miles.
Answer: Air in the lines that expands when heated up resulting in
clutch slip only after ten miles. Or, at least I think that was the
cause. Drove 200 miles with no clutch slip. The mechanic said he
adjusted the clutch (a fourth time) AND bled the system.
Thanks for the great diagnosis!
He likely adjusted the pushrod between the clutch pedal and master cylinder.
If that rod is too long the port in the master cylinder is closed which
traps the fluid. When that fluid heats up it expands and pushes against the
piston on the slave cylinder which makes the clutch slip. His problem had
nothing to do with air trapped in the system, it had every thing to do with
a misadjusted clutch linkage, just not in the traditional way.
PART II - Still Problems
Yesterday, after two hours of stop and go freeway traffic a problem
developed. The clutch pedal would not spring back, it only came back
halfway from the floor and I was grinding the gears terribly. This
happened only after two hours of use in hot weather.
The clutch no longer slips after heating up. As I mentioned in an
earlier post, the mechanic has adjusted the clutch pedal FOUR TIMES
since the new clutch was installed 90 days ago - twice my complaint was
the clutch slipping after ten miles, and twice my complaint was the
clutch pedal not springing back (apparently opposites).
Both of these past/present problems, the past slipping after ten miles,
and the present not springing back/grinding gears after two hours of
very hot stop and go freeway traffic occur ONLY after heating up. The
Dodge Stealth is always shifting perfect early in the day.
Perhaps I need a new master cylinder for the hydraulic clutch? - but
why only after two hours of clutching?
The pedal adjustment issues seem to be that we cannot reach a happy
medium. If I understand Bob's post correctly if the pedal adjustment
makes the master cylinder pushrod throw too long then the clutch slips
when heated up because the clutch plates are not returning to full
contact once the pedal is released. Perhaps then, if the pushrod throw
is too short then the plates do not separate enough when the clutch
pedal is pressed so the gears grind and the pedal does not fully return
from the floor.
So therefore if the clutch slipping is the opposite of the pedal not
springing back (with the correspondent grinding of gears) one would
expect there is a happy medium for the clutch pedal adjustment. If
there is no middle ground then maybe the master cylinder is bad, but
there are no leaks and no problems until it heats up.
Guess that I will first try experimenting with the clutch pedal/pushrod
throw myself. The mechanic cannot seem to adjust it satisfactorily
(perhaps due to faulty master cylinder). Since the most recent issue is
gears grinding rather than clutch slipping I will make the pushrod
throw "slightly" longer then take a long trip.
My pedal on my 89 toyota clutch started "creaking". And I had
problems getting it to clutch , seperate flywheel from clutch. It got
so bad I had to drop my transmission and put in new clutch. Then I
couldn't adjust clutch right, I extended push rod all the way but
couldn't get clutch to disengage. Had to change pedal assembly,
because frame was cracked not allowing clutch to disengage. Had to
change pedal assembly 2 times since. I think my starter switch on
pedal made me push on clutch too hard and that kept cracking my pedal
frame. I think you have something in the clutch from pedal to fork
that is cracked or something like that and giving after awhile.
Because I've never seen a clutch fork break. That implies something
after clutch fork bad, like throwout bearing, transmission / engine
misalignment, bad pressure plate, clutch disk, transmission input
shaft, pilot bearing. Did he change the pilot bearing?
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