On 31 Aug 2003 15:21:37 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@AOL.com (Joe Peters) wrote: >
> >Perhaps someone can help me with this.
> >
> >I'm balls-deep in an engine swap, where I'll be installing an old TBI
> >350 into a '96 S-10. There are no emission laws here in upstate NY... > >
> >The old engine is out, and I'm trying to pick apart the factory wiring
> >harness, so I can use only a few original connections for things like
> >the temp-gauge, oil-pressure gauge, speedo, etc...
> >
> >I was having trouble figuring out what powered what, so I thought it
> >would be handy to hook up a battery charger and see what worked and > >what didn't...
> >
> >I can't get ANYTHING to work!!! Not even the horn or the headlights!!!
> >If I clamp the negative charger lead to the frame, where should I
> >clamp the positive to??? I could clamp it to the positive cable, but
> >that wouldn't do anything because I currently have no alternator or
> >starter, and the positive leads lead to nothing!!! Does anyone know
> >where I should clamp the charger leads to, to operate most of the
> >trucks electrical circuits??? It's a '96 Jimmy, with no engine, no
> >battery, no alternator, and no starter.
>
> There should be a main bus lead that goes to the ignition, usually
> through a fuse near the positive terminal, however...
> It depends on what kind of battery charger you have, but most do not
> supply DC voltage. They supply rectified AC. That is to say a series
> of half-cycle sine waves.
>
> You must have a battery around from one of the vehicles. Use that and
> recharge it with the battery charger afterward.
Good point John. Many small chargers use a breaker that would trigger off under this condition so a battery is needed to tell what works.