On Sep 21, 3:56 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
I find that for a vehicle given indifferent care and where your main
concern is that it looks reasonably good and is protected for a long
time with a minimum of effort, Nu-Finish is surprisingly good despite
the cheezy name.
Someone had recommended a Teflon product but I haven't tried it.
On Mon, 21 Sep 2009 14:56:28 -0500, cuhulin wrote:
For vehicles with a good finish already, I usually use Meguire's. I have
had excellent results with this. For something that's been washed with
Tide, I would probably recommend this:
That little bit of Ajax clenser I used yesterday didn't last long, next
time I go to the store I will buy two or three cans of Ajax, I like the
way it works.I will also buy some Nu-Finish and Meguire's and try them
Nu-Finish has been in business since 1929.They must be doing something
Those polishing units can cause more trouble than they are worth.
I use the newer Ice formulation, BUT it is because all my cars are new.
It is very easy to apply, shines them up,and apparently protects them..
Doesnt turn the rubber white either.
I haven't waxed my Scion since I bought it:
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fortified with Teflon. This process is so effective that our warranty
protects your vehicle's painted surfaceand resale value for 5 years
unlimited mileage. Moreover, it is insured by one of the premier insurers
in the United States.
I used to work for a Toyota dealer and we were charging $325 to wax a car
with Simonize (the new owners upped it to $525, just because they could).
Wash with a special wash that removes EVERYTHING and then wax with the
Took about a half a bottle. We would dump the rest in a bigger bottle. I
have something like 14 kits in my garage. I washed the car when I bought
it, then go over it every year with another coat of Simonize. Definitely
worth it for free!
The advantage is, NOTHING sticks to it! Really!
Does this one turn chalk white on the car, rubber,etc? I have used some of
and they are hard to polish off, but dont seem to last and to protect any
Both of our cars have the custom pearlescent paint. It is beautiful stuff,
but I park
a hundred yards across the parking lots so some fat heifer in a pickup truck
bash dents into my doors. Paint repairs on this sort of paint are
So fqar, NOTHING has stuck to it.
I apply it to the car by hand and then (as recommended by Simoniz) remove
it with a buffer. I think the heat helps it bond better. Since I have a
pile of it I use it once a year. I even do the glass (except the w/s, of
course) and since I have a Scion tC, the roof is all glass. When I buff
the car, I do a large section, and then turn the buffer on two pieces of
glass, transferring the materil to the glass. Works so far!
The Teflon waxes are good, too. I use that once in between applications.
What kind of paint/color are they? Did you have the cars painted, or
email@example.com wrote in
I recently used Meguiar's (note the spelling!) "Deep Crystal" 3-step
process in conjunction with an orbital buffer.
Results were superb. /Very/ satisfactory.
But I found that the final carnauba wax step (Step 3) was best done by hand
for maximum deposition.
My 18 year-old black paint came up like I haven't seen it in a long time.
The only problem was that now you could easily see all the touchups and
other flaws the paint had suffered over almost two decades.
I also did the wife's ten year-old Tercel, which is a bright red (3E5, for
anyone interested) that was beginning to turn pink on the upper surfaces.
The paint came up brilliantly red, almost like the day we bought it.
You might say I unpinked her ride! :^D
I spent most of this Summer enclosing my old tandem axels trailer with
2'' by 4'' studs and pressure treated plywood and Ondura roofing.
My 1914 Ford Model T Runabout Roadster is inside of my old trailer.
Years ago, I polished my Ford Model T with Dupont Number 7 Polishing
Compound.The black paint on my car looks just like looking into a
mirror.I did all of that polishing the slow way, by hand.
They have a series of professional products, using numbers.
#1 is for old paint, IIRC, #3 is "New Car Glaze" I used on a new Honda
back in 1988, and it still looked new when we traded it in '99. #26 is a
pure wax, 'yellow' IIRC, but the Deep Crystal works just was well.
Funny thing was, I had never heard of it until 1987, when I went from
Mass. to Toronto for the Molson CART Grand Prix, and I saw the display of
PPG Pace Cars and asked them what they used.
Not sure exactly which components are in the 3 step you used. I've had
very good results with the Meguiar's Professional Glaze #7 followed by
Wax #26. A bit more expensive than their other lines, but certainly seem
to be worth the extra cost.
On Tue, 22 Sep 2009 06:45:12 -0500, cuhulin wrote:
It's $70 on eBay!!!! You can't buy it retail.
It's sold as a package with a new car, and costs from $275 to $600.
Obviously a bit of dealer profit there.
It is guaranteed for 5 years for a new car finish (that is, if you use it
on a new car, you get 5 years 'insurance'.) If anything goes wrong with
the paint that the Simonize should have stopped, they repaint the section
For something you're describing, not good. Unless you have pristine paint
or are going to repaint the thing.
You can get DuPont Teflon car wax for $3 at the "Odd Lot" stores. Need to
apply it more ofetn, but works almost as well.
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