Car won't start?! '90 Celica

Now this seemed a little odd to me. I have never had a problem with the car starting until today. It's about 63 degrees and raining.

EVERYTHING in the car seems to function except the engine won't actually start. When I turn the key to the START position, NOTHING happens (no clicking, no nothing). Anything that could run off the battery (radio, lights, etc.) works perfectly fine.

When I parked the car last night, everything was functioning perfectly.

I'm a little stuck now.......

Reply to
omnineko
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Check your starter connections, waggle all your relays and check your fuses. Do the lights on the dash come up any different?

Reply to
Coyoteboy

You will have to diagnose the starting system to determine why it will not turn over.

If the car has an automatic transmission, is it in Park? If yes and yes, try neutral.

If the car has a manual transmission, make sure there is nothing under the clutch pedal like a floor mat.

Otherwise, check for power to the starter solenoid and work your way backwards through the starting circuit to the ignition switch.

Reply to
Ray O

It's not unusual for a battery to "Drop dead" or run down enough to do what you're seeing. However, raining and damp could mean your terminals might have enough corrosion on them to prevent current to pass. Remove and clean the posts and battery cable lugs with baking soda, shine them with some coarse steel wool or wire brush and replace them with a bit of vaseline or electrolytic grease, tighten to spec. If you can see the starter motor connection, make an evaluation about this connection. Even tho you have interior lights, etc, clean the connections on your starter relay (if you have one), as this is where the battery can distribute current. Try and turn the key after all this. If still nothing, I'd start by getting a new battery. It is the most used component of your electrical system.

Reply to
SilverStude

Try starting with your headlights on. Have someone watch the lights. If they go out when you try to start, then it's likely the battery is dead or the connections to it are bad.

---MIKE---

Reply to
---MIKE---

I did already try to start the car with the headlights on. When trying to start, they stay perfectly lit and do not dim at all. Also, the battery that I am using is QUITE new (purchased it less than a month ago). I have cleaned the terminals and they seem to be quite alright. I will check on the terminal for the starter when it is daylight out.

Also, since my car has an automatic transmission (and according to my Chilton's manual), only manual transmission vehicles are equipped with a starter relay.

---MIKE--- wrote:

Reply to
omnineko

I did already try to start the car with the headlights on. When trying to start, they stay perfectly lit and do not dim at all. Also, the battery that I am using is QUITE new (purchased it less than a month ago). I have cleaned the terminals and they seem to be quite alright. I will check on the terminal for the starter when it is daylight out.

Also, since my car has an automatic transmission (and according to my Chilton's manual), only manual transmission vehicles are equipped with a starter relay.

I had another queston too: Assuming that I had to buy another starter and have my old one replaced, what should I look for when purchasing a starter? Right now I am looking at prices and see them ranging between $80 and $160. There are different brands (Bosch, "RAY," and others), different types (standard and premium), ones with a solenoid and ones that don't exactly say they have a solenoid, ones with optional or standard "type offset gear reduction starter," and there are ones offering a 1.0kw starter or ones with a 1.4kw starter. Honestly, I thought this would be a matter of swapping out the old starter for a new one. I didn't realize there were MANY different types of starters for my vehicle. Any direction would be great!

Thank you all again. Hopefully I can get this slight "tick" cured (haha, or hopefully I can get my car to start ticking again tomorrow?).

---MIKE--- wrote:

Reply to
omnineko

Also, since my car has an automatic transmission (and according to my Chilton's manual), only manual transmission vehicles are equipped with a starter relay.

******** Automatic transmission vehicles should also have a starter relay. ********

I had another queston too: Assuming that I had to buy another starter and have my old one replaced, what should I look for when purchasing a starter? Right now I am looking at prices and see them ranging between $80 and $160. There are different brands (Bosch, "RAY," and others), different types (standard and premium), ones with a solenoid and ones that don't exactly say they have a solenoid, ones with optional or standard "type offset gear reduction starter," and there are ones offering a 1.0kw starter or ones with a 1.4kw starter. Honestly, I thought this would be a matter of swapping out the old starter for a new one. I didn't realize there were MANY different types of starters for my vehicle. Any direction would be great!

Thank you all again. Hopefully I can get this slight "tick" cured (haha, or hopefully I can get my car to start ticking again tomorrow?).

********* I recommend a Toyota remanufactured starter. Most likely, you will need the 1.4 kw starter if you are in the U.S. *********
Reply to
Ray O

Ray -

I posted this to the thread, but am sending the text directly to to to ensure you see it. Thnks.

Ray -

Thx for your insight. Below are my responses to your comments.

The hesitation occurs in park and in gear. The motor will not hold any rpm above, or slightly above, idle. I inspected the duct work between the AFM and throttle body, and see/hear no leaks. Also, the vac gauge is rock steady at 22" at idle. I don't think my problem is a vac leak, or I'd see some movement on the vac gauge, or a lower reading at idle. I will check the vac gauge, when opening the throttle. The engine does not rev, so this test probably won't help. I will test the EGR w/ my Mighty Vac. Thx for that idea. I think it is a good idea (better MPG's)

to replace the O2 sensor given that it is the original part that is 23 years old w/ 154k miles. My replacement parts are all aftermarket. I don't think the problem is ignition related replace parts (cap, rotor, wires & plugs). My feeling is that it is air/fuel delivery related, or an exhaust restriction. If the EGR checks

out OK, I will disconnect the exhaust pipe at the exhaust manifold to confirm/rule out an exhaust restriction. Maybe my aftermkt fuel filter I installed is bad, but highly unlikely. I will also hook up my fuel pressure gauge. My elec fuel pump is noisy. Is this normal for this car, or maybe an indicator that it's going bad??? I'd also like to test the AFM

voltage as you recommend. I just bought a Chilton's book for this car on eBay. I hope this procedure is in the book. I'll also add some injector cleaner to the gas tank.

- Glenn

Reply to
projman

OK, an UPDATE:

Yesterday I moved the car and had it facing in the sun (to see if maybe the heat from the sun would let the contacts on the starter expand, if that was the problem). After a little while, sure thing, the car started just fine!

Actually, it started all day, anytime I wanted to start it. The weather cooled down and it even began to rain but it still started just fine!

Then, after it was dark out and it began to get a little misty, it wouldn't start. I pushed it for quite a while when I decided to try and get it to start again. And sure thing, it started!

Anyone have any idea why this would be? Is there corrosion on my starter wires and somehow that's cured by moving the car (haha)? Could it be something with the transmission?

I'm not sure where to begin... But I'm hoping that if I can at least figure out what the problem is, I could save some money in repairs by not having to have a shop diagnose the issue.

Reply to
J

By parking the car in an east-west orientation, the starter solenoid, which is basically an electromagnet, was oriented north-south, and the magnetic pull at the earth's poles was enough to help the bendix drive extend (just kidding)

A more likely culprit is worn contacts on the starter relay. A competent shop should be able to replace just the contacts, or if they cannot, they can replace the relay.

Other possibilites are the neutral safety switch, battery connections, ground connection, starter windings, and the ignition switch.

Most shops will credit diagnosis time towards the repair if they do the work.

Reply to
Ray O

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