Coolant and ATF fluid changes on Toyota

Dipstick always look better than the drained oil I must say from experience. How does it look on clean tissue *compared* to new fluid on clean tissue?

Toyota doesn't expect the first owner to keep their cars past about 4 years. If that fits you, by all means stick to the factory schedule and save money. However, if you keep a car longer than that, as in "2005 the overall median age for automobiles was 8.9 years", then you may want to perform more frequent preventative maintenance on it.

The Type IV ATF is just a re-labeled conventional (dino) Mobil-3309 ATF. Nothing special about it. For about the same price I'd rather use Mobil-1 Fully Synthetic ATF (the new formulation). I'd think Mobil knows that it's Mobil-1 ATF is compatible with it's dino Mobil-3309.

Conventional ATF usually don't last over 50-60K miles under normal service. So 30K miles under normal service for a dino oil would be a

*safe bet*, since Aisin transmission like to load up the fluild with particles, so 15K isn't unreasonable on the A-series and indeed is what Toyota specified for severe service.

However, T-IV is for the U-series clunkers that don't seem to put as much crap into the fluid as the older A-series. So maybe 30K? You decide. Synthetics are good for 100-120K miles under normal service. However, 60K miles under severe service. Maybe use Mobil-1 in your refill?

Now, think about it. The manufacturer has a vested interest in the vehicle not lasting TOO long, therefore, it would be in the interest of the manufacturer to recommend LESS maintenance that what would be the ideal amount.

In the first year or two of the 2AZ-FE's production, the block threads weren't formed completely to the top of the holes. That was corrected and I never saw a headbolt problem after that. This 2004 Camry post would seem to disagree with my ascertation, but the main problem was addressed early on. The 2004 is probably a fluke, not representative of the later models. Speaking of small samples, I'm running a 2001 Highlander with 110k miles and no problems so far - and have never

*thought* about the potential headbolt problem even once (until now) :-)

Toyota MDT in MO

Thanks JohnGdole for your great posts! You've certainly given me lots to think about :-)

Do you have a link for the report that showed "significant weight loss (metal corrosion) in lab tests" of the newer pink Toyota Super Long Life coolant? You mentioned the pink Super Long Life isn't as good of a corrosion fighter as the older red Long Life, but the pink Super doesn't have to be replaced every 2 years like the red.

And thanks a million for mentioning that head bolt loosening "glitch."

You also mentioned that Toyota's "Type IV ATF is just a re-labeled conventional (dino) Mobil-3309 ATF. Nothing special about it. For about the same price I'd rather use Mobil-1 Fully Synthetic ATF (the new formulation). I'd think Mobil knows that it's Mobil-1 ATF is compatible with it's dino Mobil-3309." [end quote]

I've been reading that some folks are using Amsoil's Synthetic ATF in place of the Toyota Type IV in their cars. Do you know if the Amsoil synthetic ATF is compatible with the '06 Camry's transmission?

Would it be okay to simply do a drain-and-fill with the Amsoil ATF? This would result in my Camry's ATF fluid being about 40 percent Amsoil and about 60 percent Toyota T-IV, since about 60 percent of the ATF is found in the torque converter, which isn't drained when performing a simple drain and fill. Or would a full flush be required to get all the T-IV ATF out of the car before introducing the Amsoil synthetic ATF?

That is quite correct. However, the ATF should be synthetic blend or synthetic to reach that interval (100K).

For conventional dino fluid, max life is like 30-60K miles (severe- normal service). But you also have to account for particle loading of the fluid. That's why for Dexron II/III severe service Toyota listed it as 15K miles for the Aisin A series transmissions without a decent filtration system. The fluid may still be good, but there are just too much crap in it.

However, I think Toyota's "lifetime interval" simply means the ATF's life is up when your transmission craps out. Really!

AERA-Engine Builders Association reported the following:

"The following information concerns the loss of coolant on some

2002-2006 Toyota 2.4L, 2AZFE engines. The location of this condition has been noted at the rear of the engine where the cylinder head bolts to the cylinder block. It has been reported that stripped head bolt threads have been found on some of these engines during tear down. When the two rear head bolts lose their clamping ability they allow coolant to seep out at the rear of the cylinder head."

More and more newer transmissions, especially LePellitier designs fill like manual transmissions. One drain plug and one fill/inspect plug.

You also have to make sure the temperature is within a certain range.

That goofy setup is the worst I've ever seen implemented. You have my condolences :-)

Built_Well wrote:

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John, that's a great article, but the reason the Toyota extended-life pre-mix pink coolant showed "a substantial weight loss (corrosion)" in the lab test is that the test was performed on radiators and heater cores made of * copper brass * and which used lead solder (in other words, old-fashioned, cheap radiators and heater cores).

I don't think the modern * aluminum * radiators and heater cores that Toyota uses, for example in the Camry, have any copper brass and lead solder in them at all. Ray O can correct me if I'm wrong.

Regarding the 2-EHA acid that GM's DexCool uses, Toyota is staunchly opposed to using 2-EHA in coolant. The 2-EHA is also not fast-acting. The article states that 2-EHA is "very stable and lasts a long time" but it "takes thousands of miles to become fully effective in protecting coolant passages." It's actually the phosphates that are used in Toyota's coolants that are fast-acting, not 2-EHA. According to the article:

"Extensive Japanese tests have shown phosphates to be a good corrosion inhibitor for aluminum, and particularly effective in protecting water pumps from corrosion after cavitation erosion/corrosion."

As stated before, I have not experienced any "loose bolts" aka pulling threads out of the block on anything past mid 2003 models. There may be a wide spread issue with it that I haven't seen on newer models, but the odds aren't that great. There was a "silent" improvement in the newer blocks that AFAIK took care of the issue. I don't have any way of knowing if something will become a recall. Yes, the helicoils are as quick as it gets and a quality repair to boot.