Malfunction indicator?

Unless you have someone read the fault codes, there is no way you can determine how serious it may be. A loose gas cap will turn on the light, so will a failing O2 sensor. As long as the light is not flashing, you have some leeway (a flashing MIL indicates a problem that needs immediate attention to prevent damage to another part of the system). If the problem was a loose gas cap, the light will go off after a few drive cycles. If it is a more serious problem it will stay on. Some discount auto parts stores will read the fault codes for free (AutoZone in my area is one). You could have them read the code for you and then come back for more advice.

Ed

On Dec 10, 5:28 pm, "Jeff Strickland" wrote:

Myself, I usually prefer not to reset the codes in the OBD2 systems. That way it will tell you if the problem is fixed eventually. It will take a few drive cycles though, so I'd give it a while depending on the particular part in question. Of course, if you reset, it will still reset the light if the problem remains, but you have flushed all the recent history and settings, etc, if you reset. So it then has to relearn everything in the first few drive cycles via the various sensors. As an example, right after I got mine, I had a pump nozzle malfunction when getting gas, and it didn't click off. Gas spewed all over the side of the car, got gas in the little vent ports, etc. This sends gas down those vent tubes and floods the charcoal canister. It reduced the flow to a low value, and it tripped my light. In my case, I decided to just let it go and see if it would just dry out on it's own. And it did. It took maybe a month or two, but eventually it started to dry out, and quickened as it got warmer. The light went out one time, but came back on. Did it again later. This told me it was improving. Finally it went out, and has never come back on so far. I initially had the codes read at autozone, and had them reset. But it came right back on about a day later, and I decided to just leave it on and use it to tell me when there was good enough flow through the evap system. Once a OBD2 system sees that the problem is fixed, it will turn itself off after whatever number of drive cycles. I guess in the end it's about the same, but I don't have the puter having to relearn everything every time it's reset. Also, a fresh reset will fail an emission test in this state. Not that it matters for him, just a mention in case some consider resetting before taking a test.. That will bomb you in Tejas.. You must have some run history stored up. MK

Go to autozone, get the codes from the OBDII read, write down all the codes, and get back to with them.

It's not something to worry about. However, it is something to investigate and find out what the problem is.

Jeff

I might be wrong about this but I don't think resetting the code memory in the cars computer does anything except clear the fault history. It won't, or at least shouldn't, cause the computer to forget the engine's run settings and shift points. Of course, if you remove a battery post, it will clear all of the computer's memory.

We were getting packed up and ready to leave our vacation spot in S.C. a couple of years ago. My wife took the car into town to return the house key to the rental agent and topped off the gas tank. She didn't get the cap on tight and it set the light. The light didn't reset over two days and about 800 miles of driving. A week after we got back home, my wife took the car to the dealer. He reset the code and told her it was a loose gas cap. Oh yes, he gave her a bill for $80 plus about $5 for supplies. The car was never taken to a service bay, the work was done by the Service Writer in the service lane.

Jack

Go to Autozone or other local parts shops that offer free OBD-2 code reads. Write down the codes and let us know. You can google the codes too.

Yea, I think you all are right now that I think about it. I'm used to running the older honda and resetting the puter via the fuse box, or battery. That's good that it doesn't default the engine settings. MK

Thanks Ed. Stopped at an auto supply store and had the code read -

Bank 1, Sensor 2 - downstream oxygen sensor

Not sure what this means, or how serious it might be...

Steve wrote in news:rke0m3lmga5u1l86ucmlc0bqf7ambp87e2@

You've only given half the text. There's more.

The text half you've given tells the location of the device that is supposedly bad. The text half that's missing says what's wrong with it.

You need to give the alphanumeric code. It will be something on the order of P0141, P0133, that sort of thing. The full text can be determined from the code.

Ugh, that's all the guy gave me. Guess I'll hafta go back...

I stopped back at the store and had it read again, it's code P0141. The guy said this affects the efficiency of the catalytic converter, but it's not critical. Dunno if I should worry about this or just let it go for now...

"The guy" is wrong. P0141 is a O2 sensor heater code, definitely worth fixing.

Steve wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

He's probably confusing the code he saw with P0420, which /is/ a cat efficiency code.

Since it's just the oxygen sensor heater (as aarcuda points out), you can let it go for now. The MIL will keep lighting up, and you likely won't pass any smog check you might have to meet on account of the light and the stored DTC.

Thanks. Is there detail somewhere on what this means, and what it might cost to fix?

Steve wrote in news:4dqfm3d247j3rbu4b39k8sgn0fsrrmh174@

Oxygen sensors are fully functional only once they reach a certain temperature (about 750F).

It used to be that exhaust gas heat was relied upon to heat the sensor up to its proper temperature. However, under certain conditions it was possible for the sensor's temperature to fall below optimum if exhaust gas alone was the heat source. For this reason oxygen sensors were given their own source of heat.

Oxygen sensor heaters have a wicked job to do and it's common for them to fail. The only cure is replacement of the entire sensor. After ascertaining there are no wiring problems, that is...

The cost? I'd guess on the order of $250-$300, plus tax. Don't try to save money by using aftermarket parts. OEM is more expensive, but will last longer.

Thanks Tegger. Is this maybe one of those thingies that might be covered under the extended emissions system warranty?

The O2 sensor may be covered under the emissions warranty if its failure causes the vehicle to fail an emissions test.

Steve wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Oxygen sensors in your car are covered for 2 years or 24K miles (49 state). In California it's 3 years or 50K miles. Looks like this one will be on your dime.

Just had it done. Ugh, cost $188 parts plus $204 labor. Pretty annoying item to hafta replace, seems like they shouldn't be making a big profit on this...

Steve wrote in news:9j0ip3heo5s3g2eisa27q2a23coqt33fcp@

Hey, I was fairly close with my price guess.

And the problem is now fixed?