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Oil in the 'valley', '88 Supra 7M-GE

Ok...got the thing apart, got to the plugs, and, I had been forwarned, there was oil down where the plugs were. I guess this is a common problem on these cars (funny, same engine design as my Corolls GTS, but with two more cylinders...didn't happen on the GTS!)

My first clue was the plug wires. It has OEM wires, which look sort of like an inverted 't', with the cross making a seal. The thing was covered with oil. Also, I inserted a spark plug socket, and then pulled it out without loosening the plug, and there was 1/4 to 1/2' of oil on it, and RUNNING off the socket.

Well, I pulled out the plug; it looked pretty good all in all. No oil fouling, but there was some 'glazing' on it, probably attributable to old wires.

Anyway, how can I (or do I really need to) remove the oil before removing the rest of the plugs. I was going to try the Shop Vac, but I don't know...

Is there any adversity to just letting the oil drop into the cylinders?

Reply to
Hachiroku
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No easy way, just sop it up with rags or paper towels. Just be sure to seal the oily rags in an air tight metal container. Check the spark plug tube gaskets.

Reply to
Ray O

I had no problems when I had this happen on my dad's 3S-GE Celica, just sop up as much as you can with paper towel etc then let it run down into the cylinders. it gets a bit smoky initially on start-up but only for a couple of seconds. but use paper towel as it goes soft in the oil and burns up better then cotton.

If you are really worried, make up a double liquid trap out of some old softdrink bottles and hose then use them before the shop vac to suck out the oil.

To make them you put the hose in the side about 1/2 way up and face the end of it down. when you suck on the top of the bottle the liquid will stay in the bottle and not get sucked into the vac. Use to just to make sure.

The problem is the rubber o-ring they use to seal the rocker covers. once they start leaking the only way to stop it is to get new ones and replace the Phillips head screws with proper bolts so you can torque it down correctly. It also doesn't hurt to put some aviation grade gasket sealer around where they go over the cam drive.

Funny though that the 6M-GE which has a different design with a real gasket never gave me and trouble in my Cressida.

Nick

Reply to
Nicholas Bourne

This is a setup I use to bleed/flush the brakes when there's no one around. Better than siphoning gas!

Yeah, some of the guys at supras.com told me this when I asked about it earlier this year. Replace the screws. But, I check the screws every time I check the oil (I carry a BIG philips head in the car!)

I don't think we got the 6G-ME here. The 5G-ME was used in the Cressida and the Supra until the 'split' in '86, the Supra got the 7G-ME but the Cressida stayed with the 5 until 88, and then went to the 7.

Reply to
Hachiroku

The 6M-GE is a pretty tough motor, it's basicly a 7M-GE block and Crank with a 5M-GE head. it was built as an intrum for the JDM Crown, Supra & Soarer until the 7M came out. Same HP but a fatter torque cruve both peak around 700rpm lower too, I tweeked mine and had about 215HP out of it. Best pert is that the 7M turbo gear is a bolt on fit and pushes the power up over 300HP. Very solid motor, shame some little prick ricers were drag racing and wrote it off on me.

Nick

Reply to
Nicholas Bourne

Well, that's 'doable' here, if you have a 7M and a 5M. Those engines are available, but getting scarcer. It would be an interesting 'experiment'!

Reply to
Hachiroku $B%O%A%m%/(B

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