removing rear brake drums on an '02 Sienna

Hi guys,

I had a really hard time removing the old brake drums from our '02 Sienna. Tried tapping them gently with a rubber mallet; nothing. Ok, tried banging on it with my 3-pound hammer. Still nothing. Finally found this site:

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After buying the *wrong* size bolts, I finally found the correct bolt (M8-1.25 x 30 MM) from Home Depot (this hex bolt takes a 14-mm socket to drive it). I guess I could have gone for something shorter than

30mm long, but hey, I was in a rush. Brake drums came off with a sick- sounding POP, but looks like there was no damage.

The new drums I bought from CarQuest don't have these 8mm holes for a bolt, though. So, in the future, if I need to replace them, how should I go about doing so? Is banging away on the drums with a 3-lb hammer really the way to do it?

I usually like to get stuff from CarQuest because they seem to be pretty good in quality, for the price. Although, in retrospect, rear brake drums may have been something I should have gone to the dealership for...?

Thanks!

Michael

Reply to
Michael
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Hi Michael,

I had exactly the same experience removing the rear drums on my 2000 Sienna= . Congratulations for sticking with it; I almost gave up and took mine to a= shop. However, based on a You Tube video by "Eric the Car Guy," I ended u= p using exactly the same bolts from Home Depot. That popping/cracking soun= d (when the drums snapped free) also freaked me out a little. In my case, = I found that the replacement drums at Pep Boys do have those 8mm guide hole= s, but the drums seem to be a little deeper than the OEM, so the original l= ug nut studs don't protrude through them quite as much. The consequence is= that the lug nuts have a bit less stud to grab onto. The nuts are threade= d on for their full depth, although there is no additional stud length. Bu= t they seem to be working out.

If you're going to stick with those CarQuest drums, it might be a good idea= to apply some grease around the area where the drum meets the hub, so that= the new drums will be less likely to get "frozen" on there due to rust, et= c. You also may want to remove the drums to inspect the brake shoes somewh= at more frequently than in the past, so that you have a chance to reapply t= he grease periodically.

Ron

Reply to
RonG

na. Congratulations for sticking with it; I almost gave up and took mine to= a shop. =A0However, based on a You Tube video by "Eric the Car Guy," I end= ed up using exactly the same bolts from Home Depot. =A0That popping/crackin= g sound (when the drums snapped free) also freaked me out a little. =A0In m= y case, I found that the replacement drums at Pep Boys do have those 8mm gu= ide holes, but the drums seem to be a little deeper than the OEM, so the or= iginal lug nut studs don't protrude through them quite as much. =A0The cons= equence is that the lug nuts have a bit less stud to grab onto. =A0The nuts= are threaded on for their full depth, although there is no additional stud= length. =A0But they seem to be working out.

ea to apply some grease around the area where the drum meets the hub, so th= at the new drums will be less likely to get "frozen" on there due to rust, = etc. =A0You also may want to remove the drums to inspect the brake shoes so= mewhat more frequently than in the past, so that you have a chance to reapp= ly the grease periodically.

Yeah, I was worried that all that banging on the drum with my hammer was going to break something in there...

Good idea... I will put some grease on the hub the next time I rotate the tires. I'll also inspect the drums each time I rotate the tires.

Thanks for the tips!

Michael

Reply to
Michael

enna. Congratulations for sticking with it; I almost gave up and took mine = to a shop. =A0However, based on a You Tube video by "Eric the Car Guy," I e= nded up using exactly the same bolts from Home Depot. =A0That popping/crack= ing sound (when the drums snapped free) also freaked me out a little. =A0In= my case, I found that the replacement drums at Pep Boys do have those 8mm = guide holes, but the drums seem to be a little deeper than the OEM, so the = original lug nut studs don't protrude through them quite as much. =A0The co= nsequence is that the lug nuts have a bit less stud to grab onto. =A0The nu= ts are threaded on for their full depth, although there is no additional st= ud length. =A0But they seem to be working out.

idea to apply some grease around the area where the drum meets the hub, so = that the new drums will be less likely to get "frozen" on there due to rust= , etc. =A0You also may want to remove the drums to inspect the brake shoes = somewhat more frequently than in the past, so that you have a chance to rea= pply the grease periodically.

On second thought I just did it yesterday. Don't want to take a chance the drum will rust again. Got some lithium grease from Wal- Mart for about $2, and just did it.

Wife won't drive the van, convinced I've done something to the brakes to sabotage them... oh she's funny alright. =3D)

Reply to
Michael

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