strange alternator faliure Corolla '90

OK, were the alternators NipponDenso, or AC-Delco? Makes a difference.

Charles of Schaumburg

uhhm, I'm not really sure, but it kind of looks like this

Toyotas are very consistent, so a problem that appears in one is likely to appear in another. Conversely, Toyotas do not have a lot of odd, one-of-a-kind problems.

Any of the things you listed can shorten the life of an alternator or its components.

All of the above can be it, but the first thing to check is the battery. If it's "out of warranty" (48 month battery that's more than

Batteries go bad just on time alone. And with weak cells, they'll overload the alternator by demanding full output constantly.

Too tight a belt usually trashes the ball bearings in the alt.

-->--

Thanx for your suggestion. I will check out the battery. Best regards Rickard

Bruce L. Bergman skrev:

On mine there were bad (oxidized?) connections both between the alternator and the battery, and between the battery minus and the ground (transmission). But it may well be a bad battery.

Asbjørn

Ok, did this problem damage your Alternator?

I did some resistance measurements between the alternator and the battery. It seems normal to me. How do I check if my battery is faulty?

The battery seems ok since I could start and drive the car when the alternator was broken. I drove at least 30km with two start without any problem.

/Rickard

Asbj=F8rn skrev:

Ok, did this problem damage your Alternator?

I did some resistance measurements between the alternator and the battery. It seems normal to me. How do I check if my battery is faulty?

The battery seems ok since I could start and drive the car when the alternator was broken. I drove at least 30km with two start without any problem.

/Rickard

Your battery may have been OK before, but driving 30 km with a broken alternator can ruin the battery unless you have a deep cycle battery. You may have damaged the battery, which in turn damaged the replacement alternator.

Ok, I understand,

How do I set up a load test?

messagenews: snipped-for-privacy@m73g2000cwd.googlegroups.com...

To load test a battery, you need a device that puts a load on the battery, cleverly called a load tester. I call them load toasters because they glow like a toaster's elements when you hook them up to the battery.

Load testers range from $30 to over $1,000 and unless I intended to check a lot of batteries, I would not invest in one. A lot of auto parts store, including Sears, will check your battery for free, including load testing.

You can buy an inexpensive and perfectly serviceable load tester at Harbor Freight for $30-ish. Or have it done.

You want to see about 12.6 Volts on the battery with the engine off and no loads on it - if it can't even manage that, even after you put a trickle charger on overnight to make sure it's charged, the battery is toast.

Then you clip the Load Tester cables to the battery posts and turn on the load bank to put 30 to 60 amps of load on the battery, and watch the battery output voltage - it shouldn't dip down more than about a volt, inside the 'Green' area of the tester's voltmeter.

If it drops two to four volts fast, you probably have a bad cell.

-->--