Vibe (automatic) console

It is the ejector seat trigger for the passenger seat ;-)

Seriously, it is the shift lock override button, it should not hurt anything if the cap is not on it, unless you have small children. Small children could conceivably push the button and move the shift lever if the engine is running.

Thanks Ray, for the quick response.

TP

(I like the ejector seat, nice enhancement for the car.)

You're welcome!

Come on Guys !

You only get the ejector seat if you have a sun roof !

SWEET now i know what options to get!!!!! Greg

That's the ejector seat button.

cordially, as always,

rm

That button is for the transmission lock release. Press it to take out of park while the car is not running. The cover missing is no big deal. Mine hasn't been there since I bought the car.

HI TP

re: PVC furnace exhaust freezes

I cannot reply to an older message for you in another forum, so I have found you in this forum and wish to ask you a question.

I came across a newsgroup issue where you had freezing from your furnace exhaust.

I have the exact same problem and am wondering if/what u did to fix the issue.

I have wrapped the exhaust end in heat-tape, but it does not work sufficiently. I am also looking into applying teflon tape to stop the sticking of water....

Just wondering if you have found a solution...

Thank you in advance... and sorry to the newsgroup for this temporary hijack. You can reply in private..

Warmest Regards, Mark

Make sure the condensate drain from the inside of your furnace is not clogged or leaking.

If this is a roughly 98% Efficient Condensing Natural Gas (or Propane) Furnace, there's supposed to be a drain line on the exhaust stack for the water vapor that condenses out to water before it goes up the stack. If the furnace is in an unheated area that's subject to freezing, you might have to provide some more heat to the area to keep that line from freezing.

If there's a P-trap in the condensate line, you might have to add both a pipe heating tape and fiberglass insulation wrap around the pipes. If the furnace maker will allow, you might use soldered Copper pipe and elbow fittings for that trap, because it will take a lot more heat input from a hating tape than a PVC pipe ever will. (Without melting...)

Read The (Friendly) Manual - get a copy of the installation manuals for your furnace and read it carefully, compare what you have with what you are /supposed/ to have. Usually those "expert installers" can't be bothered to leave the books shipped with the unit next to the furnace for the customer...

I'll bet the installer skipped something vital in the original installation - either being too cheap to buy the pieces called for, or too lazy, or just can't be bothered to read and follow directions because he knows better than the people who designed it. And that's why you are having the freeze-ups.

(I did Heating and Air for a few years but never installed one of these - I think the prices are way too steep for the small extra efficiency you get, especially in a fairly mild non-snow climate with piped Natural Gas available - far too long of a payback time. Now if you are in Minnesota or somewhere it gets seriously cold, and paying a lot more per BTU for Propane, then it makes more sense.)

Note that the condensate from the stack has a very strong Ph one way or the other - IIRC it's base/alkaline. Either way, the piping and all other materials used in contact with that water have to be able to take it. If you are using a condensate pump system (the same one that handles the atmospheric condensate from the cooling evaporator core in the summer) to get that combustion condensate to a sanitary sewer drain, it has to be rated for that particular use.

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