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What are threaded holes in the drums for?

I got the tires off, finally. I've spun the adjuster wheel back so the pads should close up. Still the drums wont budge. I'll look at the parking brake and loosen that next. the wheel spins with a short scraping sound once every revolution. I was wondering what the two threaded holes on the face of the drum would be used for? looks like a wheel puller? whould this be any use to me removing the drum or is it just a case on me making sure the pads are backed off enought to get the drum off??

Next thing the manual says is that if the drums are rusted on to take it to a mechanic... I'll spend the weekend fighting this before I do that..

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Steve

98 corolla VE 90,000 miles
Reply to
steve
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Those threaded holes are one of the smartest things the car companies have ever done. They save you a tremendous amount of hammering to remove a drum that's been on there for a while.

Buy yourself a bolt that fits the hole and then slowly screw it in. The bolt presses against the face of the axle and backs the drum off. Alternate the holes so you don't cant the drum too much as you are removing it.

Reply to
Sean Elkins

steve wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Two possibilities depending on the definition of "won't budge"

1) If the drum can be partially withdrawn, but won't come off completely, you have a ridge of rust around the perimeter of the drum. This ridge hooks behind the shoes and can make it very difficult to remove the drum.

Backing the shoes off all the way normally allows the drum to be removed.

2) If the drum will not move at all, then the drum is rusted to the hub.

You need to get a 1 lb steel hammer. Strike the face of the drum between the wheel nut studs, working around in a circle, over and over again. You need to shock the rust into fracturing. Don't be afraid to hit hard, but don't smack it like you were trying to dent it. Wiggle the drum once in a while. Kroil or PB Blaster may help. Might take a while.

Those little threaded holes *sometimes* work, but if you have lots of rust, there is great danger of fracturing the drum's steel around the holes. Try them out, but if the drum does not shift within the first turn or so of the bolt, DON'T SCREW THE BOLTS IN ANY MORE. Watch the drum metal carefully for flexing around the bolts you're using!

Reply to
TeGGeR®

Thanks for the tips. The drum will not slide out at all making me think its rusted on. I'll try the bolts and some wacks with a sledge...

I wouldnt be suprised if the drums need to be replaced.. If thats the case I assume more agressive pounding would be in order??

Reply to
steve

steve wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Too hard and you damage the wheel bearings or bend the hub. It's many repeated taps that shock the rust loose, not brute force.

Penetrating lubricants.

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Reply to
TeGGeR®

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