2000 Camry Timing Belt

I have a 2000 Camry 4cyl. It has 88K miles. I have an appointment at an independent dealer when I come back from vacation to have the timing belt
changed. I am also having the waterpump and accessory belts changed. While the mechanic is doing this work is there anything else that should be done?
Also, this car is very loud or throaty when starting off from a dead stop. Is this normal for the 4 cyl Camry.
I feel like this care wasn't well taken care of before I bought it. I have replaced the Struts and mounts on the front.
Is there other work that I should do? I plan to run this car for a ton of miles. I commute 110 round trip each day.
Thanks in advance.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Might want to change the front engine seals while you're in there. Cam seal, crank seal, and oil pump seal & o ring. Might as well since you're already more than halfway there.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I'd save your money on the replacing the water pump at that low mileage --- especially if he isn't going to use a NEW OEM one. Sound like the exhaust flex pipe is gone -- are the engine mounts still good?

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Ed Warren, 1/15/2006,9:01:03 PM, wrote:

I just had the timing belt replaced on a 2000 Sienna at the dealer for $259 with a coupon. I doubt the independant would do it that cheaply. Check dealer website for service coupons. The three Toyotas I've owned have never had the water pump replaced, the highest mileage being 164K miles. The tensioner may need replacement, but let the mechanic decide unless you are insistent these parts must all go.
The struts and/or strut mounts are a chronic problem area for that design and previous one. I just live with the squeaky/thumping noise they make because I am cheap.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
My local dealer is $189 (Wash Metro area - Bill Page) for 4 cyl.

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Like the other said, all the oil seals while you are in there. Valve cover seal if necessary and if do check the valve clearances. FelPro are good aftermarket seals. Change the spark plugs (Denso or NGK only) and PCV valve as well.
Check the condition of the coolant hoses since you are draining the system with the water pump change. It would be a good idea to replace at least the rad hoses (if not the heater and bypass hoses plus OEM thermostat) at this time.
There is no need to get OEM for most parts. Gates makes an excellent timing component kit with tensioners (not to mention the belts and hoses). Have your mechanic order one of these and save a few dollars than ordering separately.
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure "56&location_id487
NAPA carries Airtex, which is a good aftermarket water pump. NAPA/Airtex is the only non-oem I'd use and has a lifetime warranty. You might get a Good Year belt (with its name printed on it) from Toyota (or a Dayco or a Mitsuboshi). But I have a preference for Gates. They make excellent products.
www.airtexproducts.com
The struts and mounts have nothing to do with prior care. They've been cheesy from the start from Toyota, the previous owner should have gotten them replace for free during the warranty period as most people already have. Do a search on the web about this.
Change out the transmission strainer with a new one (use the tranny kit from Fram with a cork rubber gasket -- but I wouldn't use their oil filters). Don't just clean the strainer and don't miss the differential oil.
It's hard to tell when you only say loud or throaty when starting from a stop. Can you be more specific? From the engine, exhaust, etc?
Ed Warren wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
A few things to do around 85000, plugs, air filter, Pvc, rediator hoses and a flush, belts, flush brakes fluid. Trans service and filter, differential service.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote: There is no need to get OEM for most parts. Gates makes an excellent timing component kit with tensioners (not to mention the belts and hoses). =====================In my experience, the Toyota coolant hoses are vastly superior to aftermarket. As afternarket goes, NAPA is among the best, but I prefer Toyota for all part replacement - that way, no risk and you've got an exact replacement part identical to the original. Often, genuine Toyota parts are available at substantial discounts online. I've never seen hoses like original equipment Toyota that last for decades with no bulging, fraying, cracking, softness or other signs or wear or deterioration.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Sure, buying OEM parts will get you through fine, unless you got the TSB'ed bad strut mounts, brake rotors or tranny solenoids from Toyota in the first place ;-)
Toyota buys parts from other suppliers. So belts and hoses from Good Year and others make their way into the cars. You will get belts and hoses from Good Year and brake pads from NBK, which are less than ideal than belts and hoses from Gates or pads from Akebono. The long lasting EPDM (ethylene propylene diene monomer) hoses you mentioned may very well have come from Gates.
As far as discounts go, I don't consider Toyota brake pads from NBK a good deal even with a 20% discount. But they'll stop your car. Because you can't make sure a Toyota batch of pads online comes from Akebono (sometimes they do but mostly you get the cheap NBK) I consider online purchases of Akebono pads with integrated shims better deals.
Daniel wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Toyota has long standing partnerships with their suppliers. They have high quality standards and don't buy the cheapest product. Unlike aftermarket rotors - I've never had a real problem with yota rotors wapring or wearing strangly. Yeah maybe after 80k they need to be replaced but thats normal. Same with pads --- tried name brand (Bendix) and others and they all squeal and screech. OEM yota ones don't and price is about the same. Bout the only things I don't stick OEM with are tires (latest supplied Dunlops are crap), oil, shocks and radio speakers (again OEM are worthless - even the optional JBL ones).

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
The belts will often have their makes silk-screened on them along side with "Toyota". Dayco and their Mitsuboshi counterparts are OK. Good Year I've seen cracking much earlier. I've never seen the expensive Gates on a Yota yet. You get what you paid for.
Akebono ceramic pads are the best for these Asian imports.
http://www.akebonobrakes.com/aftermarket/index.html
But with all the cost cutting. They are mostly cheap NBK pads these days.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.