Hello all, I'm new here. I guess my 2000 V6 Camry is getting a little
long in the tooth though, so I'll probably be in and out of here from
here on out.
I was reading another post about changing the timing belt and also doing
the water pump as well as some other things at the same time. My 2000
V6 is getting close to 60K miles and I'm thinking it's time to start
considering this. My question is, "Do I need any special tools?" to do
the work. I don't mind shelling out the $200 for good parts, but the
thought of paying a dealer $1000 is keeping me awake at night. ;-)
Anything special I need to know about cam/crank seal replacement?
Anything else I should fix while I'm in there...plugs...wires? Is my
engine an interference type?
BTW, I just had the check engine light come on for the first time. Code
P0135 was the culprit. Pulled the rear O2 sensor and verified open
circuit in heater wires. Shelled out $150 for a new sensor and put it
in. So far so good. :-) Probably should have bought the cheaper
sensor and just spliced and soldered the wires since the new one was too
Thanks for any advice
On Mon, 9 Oct 2006 15:58:51 -0500, "Anthony Fremont"
I have a 2000 Avalon with 100K miles. I had a timing belt
replacement, new spark plugs, transmission and radiator flush and fill
and tire rotation done at the local Toyota dealer for under $750. The
price quotes ranged up to $1600. The dealer was cheaper than any of
the independents. They also inspected the car and said nothing else
needed doing. This was in overpriced California.
Firstly, thanks for the reply. But, that's still way to much money to
pay someone to do a job that I'm fairly sure I can do myself. I'm
greedy like that I suppose. My camry was covered by a warranty until
last month (naturally the O2 sensor died this month), so I haven't
purchased a service manual yet. I'm just curious if I need any special
tools (pullers or what have you) or advice/warnings/gotchas etc. to do
the timing belt and water pump replacements.
Take a look at the 1MZFE section of the many engines on the free online
repair guide. The guide goes up to 96, but the engines are basically
the same. See if this is something you want to take on.
You should have/borrow an assortment of tools, including 1/2" 2-ft long
breaker bar ($10), 1/2" 20"-extension bar ($17), cam pulley holder
($25), crank pulley holder (SCH64300, $59.95) which requires another
breaker bar ($10), floor jack/stands.
I think the crank bolt is about 160 lbft. After a few years requires a
lot more than that to remove it.
GATES TCK257 timing component kit $89.79
FEL-PRO TCS45890 crank seal $6.27
FEL-PRO TCS45889 cam seal set $8.55
GATES K060410 Alt/AC belt $13.09
GATES K040345 PS belt $8.61
ASCO/AISIN Part # 1610029085 water pump $61.79
(I personally prefer the Airtex pump from the local NAPA store. Use OEM
coolant and distilled water only. I'll try the new Prestone all-makes
non-Dexcool extended life coolant in the future.)
Total ~$188 + shipping
FEL-PRO VS50471R valve cover set (with spark plug tube seals) $30.79
Anthony Fremont wrote:
Denso heated thimbles seem to have problems from the start. TSBs
suggest they had also caused catalytic converter failures. I am
surprised that Toyota didn't extend the warranty like they did on the
oil sludge problem, just to ensure customer satisfaction ;)
I'd use only Bosch planar sensors when available. These have vent holes
only at the tip. They use less heater power, light up faster, and are
more resistant to contamination because of the planar design. Those
Densos went where they belong in the first place, in the trash.
Anthony Fremont wrote:
90K mile schedule is the specified one. But I noticed the idler
bearings began to run dry and would click when shaken at around 60K
miles. By 90K-100K they generally got quite noisy and would have some
play. 90K is pushing by the marketing department. For me, all the
listed parts in my previous message go at 60K while the area is apart
Two pulleys in the Gates Timing Kit package add about $60 more to the
~$30 Gates timing belt. Besides, the cam seals tend to start seeping
around 60K, so I'll change those too. I can leave the crank seal
(generally in better shape than cam seals) until 120K, but for $6 out
it goes. The water pump may or may not be ok at 60K. The last one
(Toyota Aisin) I looked at was leaking already, contributing to the
mysterious coolant loss problem many posted. And that one was on OEM
red with distilled water every year.
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