2000 V6 Timing Belt Questions

Hello all, I'm new here. I guess my 2000 V6 Camry is getting a little long in the tooth though, so I'll probably be in and out of here from
here on out.
I was reading another post about changing the timing belt and also doing the water pump as well as some other things at the same time. My 2000 V6 is getting close to 60K miles and I'm thinking it's time to start considering this. My question is, "Do I need any special tools?" to do the work. I don't mind shelling out the $200 for good parts, but the thought of paying a dealer $1000 is keeping me awake at night. ;-) Anything special I need to know about cam/crank seal replacement?
Anything else I should fix while I'm in there...plugs...wires? Is my engine an interference type?
BTW, I just had the check engine light come on for the first time. Code P0135 was the culprit. Pulled the rear O2 sensor and verified open circuit in heater wires. Shelled out $150 for a new sensor and put it in. So far so good. :-) Probably should have bought the cheaper sensor and just spliced and soldered the wires since the new one was too long anyway.
Thanks for any advice
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On Mon, 9 Oct 2006 15:58:51 -0500, "Anthony Fremont"

I have a 2000 Avalon with 100K miles. I had a timing belt replacement, new spark plugs, transmission and radiator flush and fill and tire rotation done at the local Toyota dealer for under $750. The price quotes ranged up to $1600. The dealer was cheaper than any of the independents. They also inspected the car and said nothing else needed doing. This was in overpriced California.

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george wrote:

Firstly, thanks for the reply. But, that's still way to much money to pay someone to do a job that I'm fairly sure I can do myself. I'm greedy like that I suppose. My camry was covered by a warranty until last month (naturally the O2 sensor died this month), so I haven't purchased a service manual yet. I'm just curious if I need any special tools (pullers or what have you) or advice/warnings/gotchas etc. to do the timing belt and water pump replacements.
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Take a look at the 1MZFE section of the many engines on the free online repair guide. The guide goes up to 96, but the engines are basically the same. See if this is something you want to take on.
www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/13/e6/07/0900823d8013e607.jsp
You should have/borrow an assortment of tools, including 1/2" 2-ft long breaker bar ($10), 1/2" 20"-extension bar ($17), cam pulley holder ($25), crank pulley holder (SCH64300, $59.95) which requires another breaker bar ($10), floor jack/stands.
www.harborfreight.com www.sears.com/tools www.sjdiscounttools.com/sch64300.html
I think the crank bolt is about 160 lbft. After a few years requires a lot more than that to remove it.

GATES TCK257 timing component kit $89.79 FEL-PRO TCS45890 crank seal $6.27 FEL-PRO TCS45889 cam seal set $8.55 GATES K060410 Alt/AC belt $13.09 GATES K040345 PS belt $8.61 ASCO/AISIN Part # 1610029085 water pump $61.79 (I personally prefer the Airtex pump from the local NAPA store. Use OEM coolant and distilled water only. I'll try the new Prestone all-makes non-Dexcool extended life coolant in the future.) Total ~$188 + shipping
If needed: FEL-PRO VS50471R valve cover set (with spark plug tube seals) $30.79
Anthony Fremont wrote:

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Did the dealer replace the pulleys and the oil seals? How about the water pump? Timing belt only coupon price is about $270.
george wrote:

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what the hell is your dealer charging you for labor in PA it is about 70 dollars per hour and it is a four hour job/ so about 280 plus parts which ain't no 700 dollars/

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Denso heated thimbles seem to have problems from the start. TSBs suggest they had also caused catalytic converter failures. I am surprised that Toyota didn't extend the warranty like they did on the oil sludge problem, just to ensure customer satisfaction ;)
I'd use only Bosch planar sensors when available. These have vent holes only at the tip. They use less heater power, light up faster, and are more resistant to contamination because of the planar design. Those Densos went where they belong in the first place, in the trash.
www.boschautoparts.com/Products/OxygenSensors/PlanarO2
Anthony Fremont wrote:

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See TN threads at the bottom of this page for info on timing belts.
Check the link below for service manuals:
http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry
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toyomoho
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Not to step on any toes. But With only 60K miles I would just change the belt. At the next belt replacement (120K) I would replace the WP/belt/tensioner & crank & cam seals
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On Thu, 12 Oct 2006 23:32:29 -0400, "sqdancerLynn"

My 2000 Avalon V6 manual calls for timing belt replacement at 90,000 miles.
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90K mile schedule is the specified one. But I noticed the idler bearings began to run dry and would click when shaken at around 60K miles. By 90K-100K they generally got quite noisy and would have some play. 90K is pushing by the marketing department. For me, all the listed parts in my previous message go at 60K while the area is apart for work.
Two pulleys in the Gates Timing Kit package add about $60 more to the ~$30 Gates timing belt. Besides, the cam seals tend to start seeping around 60K, so I'll change those too. I can leave the crank seal (generally in better shape than cam seals) until 120K, but for $6 out it goes. The water pump may or may not be ok at 60K. The last one (Toyota Aisin) I looked at was leaking already, contributing to the mysterious coolant loss problem many posted. And that one was on OEM red with distilled water every year.
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochure "56&location_id487
george wrote:

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