97 Camry timing belt..is it lethal when broken??

Hi,

You are - the 4 cyl and 6 cyl engines in this year are non-interference engines, meaning that if the timing belt breaks, the pistons should not hit the valves, and you are simply stranded with a dead engine.

Mind you, it still isn't a terrific idea to plan on doing it! The repair would involve being very careful to get the belt timing right on the camshaft sprockets, and although there are marks, I found it is rather easy to be one tooth out. It is much better to have the old belt there to look at first.

There seems to be a lot of controversy over whether the belt should be routinely changed at all when the engine does light duty only. This is defined as an absence of stop-start driving, towing, very cold or very hot or dusty conditions.

Those who say YES (including me) subscibe to an interval of 100,000Km, or about 60K miles, so you could think about it. I changed mine at 120,000Km, and there was evidence of wear - the belt was "hairy" looking.

If you go ahead, give the belt idler pulleys, the water pump, and the crankshaft nose oil seal a very careful look. Replace these if there is any wear or seepage apparent.

Geoff

Best to replace all these items at the time the belt is done including camshaft seals and the 2 seals on the oil pump while your in there. It may be another 90,000 before your next belt change so those parts would have 180,000 miles on them....

Robmurr, Is there a O-ring on the oil pump?

May want to replace water pump when replacing T-belt. And Thermostat and water hoses.

There is a round O ring on the oil pump shaft and a big rubber gasket that is between the motor and pump. That big one failed on me causing a bad leak.. Water hoses on these cars are incredibly good. I finally changed mine at 185,000miles as a precaution.

I know for sure, the 4 cylinder will not result in any damage. Ours broke travelling at about 75mph....besides leaving my wife stranded, new belt and back on the road in no time.

Think that is the same for the V6.

Essentially you are correct. Actually the "O-ring" is more of a flat doughnut shape - correctly speaking it is an oil seal, similar to those at the crankshaft and camshaft, only smaller. It prevents oil from seeping past the rotating shaft that drives the oil pump. The "big" rubber gasket between the pump and block is actually a very thin round cross section long flimsy piece with a wavy circumference that snakes its way through the bolt pattern - overall very small and light. When installing mine, had to coat it in a small amount of grease to prevent it from falling out of position while installing the oil pump cover. It installs into a groove that appears to be apx.

This is great info, I plan to change out T-belt and water pump in the near future. There is a oil leak near the front of engine, so I assume its the front crank seal or one of the oil pump seals. As far as other recommended items to replace in that area, I think there is a belt tensioner bearing(s)??? When should that be placed on a 90 V-6 camry with approx 120 Kmi. No record if ever replaced in the past. To replace the seals on the oil pump, I'm under the impression that the oil pan needs to be removed, is this correct???? Also has anyone had any experience with using generic parts vs. oem for the water pump, seal, tensioner bearings, T-belt, etc. I was going to use Toyoto oem parts, but may do a price comparison first. Thanks for the feedback. Jim

Nope, oil pump is not in the pan. Get a Haynes manual.

You only want to do this once in a long time. No time to get cheap with the parts. You will save a lot of money doing it yourself anyway.

You are. But, time to change it anyway. Either way you'll have to replace it. It's cheaper not having to pay towing charges.

I just want to say Thanks to everyone who responded. Glad to hear the good news.