'88 Camry recharge/R-134 conversion?

I s there any info on-line about recharging 3S-FE A/C system and converting to R-134? I have all the stuff (gauge set, vac. pump, a conversion kit from Pep Boys, etc.) to do it. I have heard of people not changing o-rings, not even the receiver/dryer....and yet they got it working fine.

Reply to
geronimo
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I've been using 406-a in my old accord for years now. I'ts about as "drop in" as you can get. I've found that 134 performance in older r12 systems leaves a lot to be desired. The 406-a stuff is dirt cheap, and my vent temp on a hot summer day is under 40F. Its also compatible with the R-12 oil, so you don't have to worry about getting all the oil out. Do a google search, you'll find it. You'll also need to take an online EPA test to order it, but its really simple. Barring that, the proper way to do a conversion is to drain the system, change the dryer and all the orings. It can be a huge pain in the ass and often other problems can pop up when you get into 15+ year old cars. But, I've also seen people get reasonable performance just by dropping in 134. How long that will function, you can't say. I'd still recommend the 406-a.

Reply to
qslim

Well, R406a is a good alternative to R12. But it has some disadvantages. A Google search turned up a substitute for R12 called DuraCool. This is a blend of propane and butane. It is great for older systems like mine that have tiny leaks, as the molecues it is composed of are relatively large. It is CHEAP, doesn't require hose change, you don't have to evacuate the system...and you are far more at risk carrying around a gallon of gasoline in the trunk than riding in a car with this refrigerant. The articles I saw mentioned it being retrofitted to GMC cars....I don't know if anyone has installed in a Camry. If its not illegal in Texas, I might try it.

Reply to
geronimo

You might want to link into the forum associated with

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You can get really good professional information, as well as any parts you may need, via this site.

It is my opinion that, if you want a cold car, you dont want to fiddle around with half baked conversions. Do it right.

And that means replacing

- the o-rings,

-washing out the system,

-replacing the lubricant in the compressor with compatible lubricant,

- replacing the filter/drier,

- PERHAPS replacing the expansion control be it valve or orifice type,

-pulling a good vacuum and

-properly recharging with 134a.

Anything much less is jackleg work.

Reply to
<HLS

Here is the response I posted on the R134 conversion to another question some while ago. BTW, the Interdynamics conversion video says that many shops will recover R12 for free because it's like cash in their pockets.

AC would still cool a little but not as much if there is less freon. Do you see bubbles in the receiver/dryer sight glass? If so that's probably it. Systems are considered "sealed" even if they leak 1/2 to 1 oz of freon per year.

If you see visible leaks along the metal freon lines to and from the compressor, then you have to think about whether or not the o-rings should be replaced. Otherwise new freon will leak out of there. O-ring conditions in aftermarket recharge kits may help if the o-ring is not in too bad of a shape.

Also check the operation of your AC condenser fan motor. Do this by turning the key to ON without starting the engine, then turn on the AC (only the blower motor will turn of course). Beware of moving parts! The condenser fan in the engine compartment should operate. You should also check drive belt tension. It's harder to check the belt tension if you don't have a gauge, but at least the belt that drives the compressor should not be loose. Typically you should have about 1/4" deflection at mid point, and on farther spaced pulleys 1/2". It could also be a problem with the compressor or the clutch slipping. But if you don't hear abnormal noises then they are probably OK.

I don't know if you can still find R12, but Interdynamics has a R12 ->

R134a retrofit kit. It's probably cheaper too.

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But you still have to have the system properly discharged, pulled full vacuum for 30 minutes, and then recharge with the kit without introducing any air (air forms a combustable mixture with R134a).

If the only problem is lost freon and all other parts are in acceptable condition then buy the kit ($60) and have a shop pull vacuum for you. You then fill it with the retrofit kit. My guess is no more than $100?

Check out the how-to guide on the Interdynamics web site

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Reply to
johngdole

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