auto-rx and distributor O-ring

I replaced the O-ring on my 1991, 4 cyl, more than 2 months ago, and so far no leaks. The job was not complicated, and did not require any special tools.

1. The most difficult part is to clean the area before you start. Before this leak began, my engine was completely dry I want it back this way, therefore I cleaned everything from the bottom up, including a tooth brush where needed. It would make your job much easier. I used engine degreaser and a paint brush to apply it, because I didn't want it to reach any rubber parts.

1. Not mandatory - I rotated the engine to TDC before I started: I heard about people who tried this job, and at the end the engine did not start, therefore I assumed that in the worst case at least I would know that the rotor should point to wire #1. It also gives a more confident feeling during the assembly.

2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Side note: Make sure you have metric tools. Some bolts are smaller than 9mm (I can't remember if it was

1. The most important step: After everything is clean and shiny, mark the position of the distributor on the engine head and valve cover. Out of 3 methods I tried: tape, scratch and paint, I found that a drop of whiteout, that spread on the 2 parts, is the easiest reference point during the assembly. You can also add a scratch mark just to be safe

2. Move away the air duct. Is held by two metal bands (I am not sure what is the proper name) that has a screw that release their grip. It will make the access much easier.

1. disconnect the wires connected to the distributor.

2. The distributor cap is held by 3 bolt: one on the top-left, and two on the bottom. This is where step #1 becomes important because its hard to find those bolts. I used a mirror.

1. The distributor is held by 2 bolts: top-left, and bottom-middle. After removing those bolts, you will be able to pull the distributor out.

2. verify that there is no oil in the coil area (under the rotor). If there is, it would be a good chance to clean it while the distributor is out and you don't need to bend down to reach it.

1. Removing the old ring - do not use any metallic sharp objects. Find a plastic sharp object (I used a plastic scrapper) to pull the ring out of the groove, and then cut it. Don't waste your time (like me) trying to pull it out. Mine was very dry and hard, and its cross-section was more rectangular than round.

2. Put motor oil on the new ring, and it would slide easily to the groove.

1. Put everything back, with extra precision when positioning and tightening the distributor bolts. It might be also a good opportunity to replace the rotor with a new one.

I was planning on borrowing a timing light from a co-worker for a final fine tunning, but my MPG is about 25 on my daily commute to work (no highways), so I don't believe that I can improve it anymore.

My mechanic wanted $55 for this job (S. California), but beside saving the money I enjoyed doing the job my self, having a clean engine and knowing that there are no scratches on the shaft. I am pretty sure that it would have not been this way if a mechanic did the job, trying to finish in less than 20 minutes.

I hope this info would help, and good luck if you decide to do it yourself. If someone else have any comments, or you notice that I forgot something, please correct me.

Leaking O rings usualy mean oil in the distributor, when that happens the coil is contaminated and it shorts out when humid after startup. Clean the inside of distributor and the coil good with alcohol

couldn't hurt, but better to replace -- the amount of oil (and auto-rx) reaching that area is quite small auto-rx reducing oil seal hardness is more oriented to seals like the crankshaft seals that are constantly exposed to oil. If you follow bauz's excellent and complete description you should be fine. I definitely recommend using a timing light to check timing when done though, personally I found it difficult to get the distributor back exactly to the degree position when removed. You use a paper clip at the DLC (underhood data link connector) to temporarily disable the electronic advance. E1 and Te1 - I think. Quite simple really. Just remove the air box for better access, and use a shop light. Once you learn to do your own service and maintenance work, both you and the car will be better for it - not to mention the cost savings. Seems to me, the labor savings can be used to replace associated parts to keep everything in top condition, and you can set aside time to do the work carefully rather than trying to make quicker work to get to the next vehicle to increase your earnings.

Ok, thanks all for the excellent advice.

Funny, my Haynes doesn't seem to mention the distributor at all.

I remember my dad had a timing light - I'll see if he still has it...

Wow look what I found!

Thanks again all.

Mike Darrett