Auto Transmission Downshift Issue

Oct 28, 2003 7 Replies
4-cylinder
1993
159,000 miles

I've recently started experiencing a transmission shifting problem. It happens mostly as I try to accelerate from a stopped position. When I accelerate, it's like the transmission is sticking. It takes some effort before the car will get started to drive smoothly, like it's not even in first gear but half of a gear. Once I get going, everything seems to be fine, but as I'm driving if I'm below about 40 mph, it feels like the car shifts from 2nd gear back into 1st gear then out again, giving a quick jerk as it does this. Once I'm driving for a while a little closer to 40mph, I don't have the problem again until I have to accelerate from a full stop. I don't have this problem if I'm doing highway driving. Only when I'm street driving. It's also not a problem if I'm stopped facing downward on a hill when I accelerate from a full stop. It started yesterday. My car was idling pretty low and wouldn't start the first time that I turned the ignition. So the second time that turned it, I revved up the car to about



5000rpm, so that it would catch. I've had to do this before, usually I would go to about 4000rpm. I was wondering if that extra bit of revving is what got the transmission acting funky.

Has anyone else experienced this problem with the transmission feeling like it's sticking at lower speeds?



Thanks in advance,



Lorraine


To start with, you are describing governor and valve body failures. People who don't get their transmission fluid changed as recommeded (every 30k miles or less) get problems like you have outlined. Pick a transmission shop and make an appointment before the matter gets serious. As is, sounds like a gummed valve body.

Thanks a lot for the advice. I bought the car used, and I'm pretty sure that I had all the fluids changed after I bought it. I've driven it about

7,000 miles, give or take a few hundred miles, but I will definitely go get the transmission fluid changed immediately. Should I ask them to check for a gummed valve body while they're changing the transmission fluid, or do they do that automatically?

Thanks again, Lorraine

To inspect the valve body, the transmission oil pan must be removed and the valve body removed after that. This is not a job for anyone but a dealership or mainstream automatic transmission shop.

So that I'm not put into my grave when they tell me the cost, do you know approximately how much something like that runs? I know that a transmission flush shouldn't cost that much, but it can run into money when they start removing parts.

Thanks, Lorraine

Varies a lot depending one WHO and WHERE. You could always play dumb. Call a dealer and ask the Service Writer what it would cost to clean the valve body in your transmission. When he chokes, tell him your husband told you to ask this question. ;-)

Is the fluid level correct? Check with the parking brake full on, level surface, enine running, fluid hot after moving through all the A/T stick positions ending in Neutral not park.

Is the fluid the correct type? See owners manual possibly Dexron III

Have them drop the pan, clean the magnets, clean or replace the filter(sceen).

I would NOT have them drop the valve body as they won't know where to look for a sticky valve anyway.

If this does't work a transmission flush may help.

Good Luck

Thanks Philip and Marvin for all the help. I called the dealer to find out the prices for everything that you recommended. When I got to the point of asking about cleaning the valve body, he asked me what was wrong with the car. I told him, and he recommended that I have the transmission flush. He said that they would do that first and see what happens from there. So, they did the transmission flush and drained and refilled the differential. Everything is running smoothly again. Yaaaaaaaaaaay!!!

Thanks again, Lorraine :o)

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