engine mount bushing, Camry 2001 4-cycl

Is it possible for an engine mount bushing to be the cause of a rough engine especialy when it revs around 2000rpm? Till this summer, my engine was very smooth. No vibration. It progressively became more rough. But very slowly.

It is ok at idle, automatic transmission engaged or not. Shifting from Drive to R, nothing shows up. I have checked the muffler, nothing. Heat shield, nothing. Tranmission, nothing. Dealer says the car has nothing wrong... despite trying to show them how it feels compared to other Camry. Almost had an argument with the guy!!! Mmmmm???

Johnny

Reply to
J. David
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You say engine mount "bushing" - there is really only one of those - the "dog bone" shaped upper mount connected to the strut tower; the front and rear engine mounts are fluid filled - not elastic bushing type. You can easily inspect the upper mount with a flashlight for cracks or deformation. If it is sound, the others are likely OK. I suspect that once this "engine moving control rod" as Toyota calls it, goes, it places additional unintended stress on the others. You are more sensitive to the correct operation of your vehicle than the Dealer service advisors. I remember the mocking look I received when describing a faint odor of burning rubber. The engine compartment looked immaculate, and as in your experience found nothing wrong. Some months later, when checking the resistance of the spark plug wires with a digital multimeter, and finding two of the four with infinite resistance, I discovered one of the boots shorting to ground deep inside the spark plug tube - hence the burning rubber odor. Don't know if it makes a difference, but I have the California version with the external coil. The spark was still strong enough that missing was only slightly noticeable under harder acceleration. Being sensitive to slight changes is a good thing. Yesterday morning, while checking oil level, I noticed a very slight amount of seepage at the valve cover gasket which I replaced apx. 15k miles ago. Checking the torque of the 30mm mounting nuts found them to be very loose and re torqued them to spec. If your engine is smooth at idle, I'd check the spark plugs, wires, coil, and cap and rotor if you have them first for a slight miss.

Reply to
Daniel

This should prove to be an interesting research as I will learn more about my car. Ok, only one bushing. I'm gonna check it carefully.

I can't help but to think it must take something with a sufficient mass to transmit such vibration or roughness to the body. When you say I should check spark plugs, wires, etc. do you suspect bad ignition when the engine revs at higher speed, enough to have it vibrate more? ...

Reply to
J. David

Only around 2000 rpm? Or above 2000 rpm?

I'd think engine mount problems you'll notice it more at idle and transmission shifts (to D or R from N).

There is one "dog bone" but a front and rear mounts (like round cylinders you can see). You should check the play of those mounts using a pry bar and follow Haynes/chilton manual instructions.

For some reason the dealers sometimes are the last to find the problems. It's all normal to them. ;)

Reply to
johngdole

I'm gonna check this as soon as it stops raining overhere...

Reply to
J. David

I forgot to answer in my previous message that the "problem" occurs around

2000rpm. Its a kind of peak or resonance. To me, it is the same peak of vibration is at stop with transmission in Neutral (and reving the engine) but also when driving. All occurs around 200rpm. It is not consistant as it feels more or less some days than others or when I stop the car a few minute then drive it again...
Reply to
J. David

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