Right.
In case anyone is interested.
I finished building the 1600dp street engine I've been working on, it's the *last* evolution version of my experimental 1600. I think I got the package pretty much where I want it. It will eventually find a new home in my 67 bug, accompanied with stock transmission and 195/70 15" rear tires. (In case anyone was curious about gear ratios)
For now, I put it in the convertible. The whole rear clip is removable, and thus it's the ideal test bench for engines, when you need to have easy access to carbs and valves etc. NOTHING is in the way :) It's like a baja without a brush guard.
Some specs:
1600 Mahle forged kit (weight matched pistons) Stock crank (balanced) Aggressively lightened stock rods (weight matched) 200mm lightened flywheel (balanced) Stock bus clutch with stock type Black Magic disc (I think) Full flow oil filtration Type 4 oil cooler in stock T1 location 30mm steel pump, steel cover Case oil passages relieved a little, lifter grooves connected Windage tray Engle W130 cam Compression ratio around 9.5:1More cam detail:
Adv.Dur Act.dur lift" liftmm LobeC Description
308º 267º 0,419" 10,64 108º Drag racing and off-road competitionCam is advanced 4 degrees
Kadron-type carb kit with more modern Solex/Brosol 40mm single throat carbs, long intake manifolds. Manual chokes removed and 30mm venturies drilled out to 32mm. Center pull linkage with the mechanism welded to the fan shroud for rigidity (hehe).
Distributor is a stock beetle late model SVDA, with an adjustable vacuum canister (from a 76 Skoda 120). Vacuum comes from both carbs via a T fitting. (Less pulsation when I use both). Dizzy is quite a bit tweaked.
Stock based heads, stock valve sizes. (Favored by budget and low end driveability, plus small displacement). Unshrouded valves, slight porting and close deck (in the neighborhood of .050"). Intake manifold to head mating has a distinct step in it, holes in the head are larger than the gasket and manifolds. This is to reduce standoff. (Gawd I hate it, I still have some). Stock rockers, springs replaced with shims. Stock adjuster screws, lash caps. HD single race valve springs.
Still need to make an air cleaner box for the carbs, currently they have no cleaners. And they are noisy :)
The exhaust is quiet, I showed you the picture earlier of what I made.
Haven't broken it in yet (or just broken it, lol) but it feels pretty smooth, pulls good from low revs and mid range is very nice. Lacks a little power in the upper rpm range, but I'll have to see how it changes once I get jetting and ignition timing just right. The carbs and valves are limiting it a little, but at the same time it won't shit itself due to insanely high revs.
I have one inaccurate tach mounted in the car, which I took to 7500 once. Will have to verify that with a known good tach. So don't look at that number too much.
Don't ask how much it cost, it's the combination I ended up with after almost 7 years of experimenting with the core engine. Opened it up every winter to inspect wear and tear, and replace bearings and piston rings if nothing else. So the cost was distributed over a course of many years.
Next project: Finish building my 80x90.5mm race engine.. and put it in my street convertible :)
Jan