Ahha, it runs :) (long, new 1600cc street engine specs)

Right.

In case anyone is interested.

I finished building the 1600dp street engine I've been working on, it's the *last* evolution version of my experimental 1600. I think I got the package pretty much where I want it. It will eventually find a new home in my 67 bug, accompanied with stock transmission and 195/70 15" rear tires. (In case anyone was curious about gear ratios)

For now, I put it in the convertible. The whole rear clip is removable, and thus it's the ideal test bench for engines, when you need to have easy access to carbs and valves etc. NOTHING is in the way :) It's like a baja without a brush guard.

Some specs:

1600 Mahle forged kit (weight matched pistons) Stock crank (balanced) Aggressively lightened stock rods (weight matched) 200mm lightened flywheel (balanced) Stock bus clutch with stock type Black Magic disc (I think) Full flow oil filtration Type 4 oil cooler in stock T1 location 30mm steel pump, steel cover Case oil passages relieved a little, lifter grooves connected Windage tray Engle W130 cam Compression ratio around 9.5:1

More cam detail:

Adv.Dur Act.dur lift" liftmm LobeC Description

308º 267º 0,419" 10,64 108º Drag racing and off-road competition

Cam is advanced 4 degrees

Kadron-type carb kit with more modern Solex/Brosol 40mm single throat carbs, long intake manifolds. Manual chokes removed and 30mm venturies drilled out to 32mm. Center pull linkage with the mechanism welded to the fan shroud for rigidity (hehe).

Distributor is a stock beetle late model SVDA, with an adjustable vacuum canister (from a 76 Skoda 120). Vacuum comes from both carbs via a T fitting. (Less pulsation when I use both). Dizzy is quite a bit tweaked.

Stock based heads, stock valve sizes. (Favored by budget and low end driveability, plus small displacement). Unshrouded valves, slight porting and close deck (in the neighborhood of .050"). Intake manifold to head mating has a distinct step in it, holes in the head are larger than the gasket and manifolds. This is to reduce standoff. (Gawd I hate it, I still have some). Stock rockers, springs replaced with shims. Stock adjuster screws, lash caps. HD single race valve springs.

Still need to make an air cleaner box for the carbs, currently they have no cleaners. And they are noisy :)

The exhaust is quiet, I showed you the picture earlier of what I made.

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Bugpack header with shortened collector (also pushed in deeper, so the pipe tucks in out of sight). I may end up replacing the muffler with a straight through performance muffler. For now it's a watercooled VW muffler which I opened up and made the inner tubes flow better... enlarged all holes in there. But it may not flow enough for this engine.Good thing I made it easy to replace. Cut old muffler out, weld new muffler in.

Haven't broken it in yet (or just broken it, lol) but it feels pretty smooth, pulls good from low revs and mid range is very nice. Lacks a little power in the upper rpm range, but I'll have to see how it changes once I get jetting and ignition timing just right. The carbs and valves are limiting it a little, but at the same time it won't shit itself due to insanely high revs.

I have one inaccurate tach mounted in the car, which I took to 7500 once. Will have to verify that with a known good tach. So don't look at that number too much.

Don't ask how much it cost, it's the combination I ended up with after almost 7 years of experimenting with the core engine. Opened it up every winter to inspect wear and tear, and replace bearings and piston rings if nothing else. So the cost was distributed over a course of many years.

Next project: Finish building my 80x90.5mm race engine.. and put it in my street convertible :)

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson
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Wow. Sounds like a great engine! I wonder if you wouldn't mind "open-sourcing" it and letting other folks use the exact same combo. Perhaps, in order to give credit where credit is due, we will call it: "Jan's Recipe #1"

I remember there was a website with just a bunch of "engine recipes" out there. Wonder if anyone bookmarked it.

I just gotta ask 2 things: Why did you choose a 30mm oil pump? I thought in cold climates, that would lead to excess pressure on the oil lines and filter. Also, with that particular camshaft and CR, what grade of gasoline are you planning to use/have available?

-GE

Reply to
geoffers

On Fri, 09 Jul 2004 17:22:43 -0700, geoffers ran around screaming and yelling:

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Reply to
Joey Tribiani

"Jan Andersson" wrote

As if there was ever any doubt. ;-) Congrats!

Blasphemy! :)

-- Scott

Reply to
Scott H

Hehe, feel free to copy it... your results may vary. I still don't have it dialed in 100%

I can tell it would love a pair of 40mm dells or webers though, that's the only thing I'd change. If I had the money.

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True. I chose it because that's what I had lying around, almost unused :) And because I messed with the oil passages and lifters. That reduced oil pressure throughout the system, a little at least. A 26mm aluminum pump would be sufficient.

European 98 octane unleaded. (Highest we have). I think that's close to american 93. (They are calculated differently). But the US "high octane" gasoline is of poorer quality (energy and detonation wise, flash points etc.) than ours.. even if they had the exact same octane.

Jan

Reply to
Jan Andersson

I can tell you what I'd change (& I know you've tried alot of stuff already). #1 Bore: easy enough to go bigger, especially with the next suggestion. #2 Heads: big-valve, ported & polished. With these two mods, & assuming you have a good free-flowing muffler, you'd get *alot* more power & not loose any reliability (considering everything is balanced, etc.). As it is it's just not going to breathe enough to take full advantage of the cam & carbs. And yep the carbs change would be great. Hard to beat eiither the Dells or Webs. Just my 2 cents :-) ~ Paul aka "Tha Driver"

Giggle Cream - it makes dessert *funny*!

Reply to
ThaDriver

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