How to change cam seal on 3SFE engine?

I know there is some special tool to do this...does this come only from a Toyota dealer and is it expensive? What to ask for exactly? Also is a special tool needed to pull the camshaft pulley, and is it lock-tite'ed or usually dificult to remove?

I changed the oil pump recently, and that stopped the oil leak from teh crankshaft seal....but now it is starting to leak from the camshaft seal.

Reply to
geronimo
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========= Found one at toolsource.com for under $50. You may be able to find one elsewhere for less. Once the bolt is removed the cam sprocket should be easy to remove. (unless it is like your crankshaft pulley :?) -- cam sprocket should just lift off. The tool is to press the new seal in place where the strut tower limits clearance. The tool makes it so simple you're done in a matter of moments. It is a "cup" shape, with a threaded bolt in the center. Supposedly works with a variety of engines from different manufacturers including Toyota.

Reply to
Daniel

The seals are in the sockets tight and the clearance on the camshaft side is very tight. So the larger Sears #00999814000 hook puller $10.99 won't fit.

I'd used my "special tool" called a taped flathead screwdriver. But to gain better leverage on the seal you might want to consider Sears oil seal puller #00947091000 $9.49. I haven't tried this but want to buy one of these for the next oil seal.

ger> I know there is some special tool to do this...does this come only

Reply to
johngdole

Reply to
geronimo

======= You need a seal tool to press in the new seal. There is no metal backing like the crankshaft oil seal. I didn't have any trouble removing it with a standard hook tool. Just poked a hole in the seal and yanked it out. The rub comes in trying to fit the new seal. There's no room to drive it in so you need the special tool to press it in correctly. I've read you could also try removing a cam bearing cap to install the new seal, but then you need to seal the bearing cap against leaks because the leading edge has sealant. Rather than mess with that, I bought the seal installer.

Reply to
Daniel

Well, I absolutely don't want to open up engine and remove a bearing cap to change it...but I think you said this special tool cost about $50? Too high for a tool that I may never use again. Can you help the seal into place with a short piece of PVC pipe of the appropriate diameter maybe? (I guess that this special tool is circular, so it applies even pressure all around to seat it..I guess). but then it is so close to strut tower, I would imagine you can't tap on the pipe. Anyway, there is no way to home-brew this tool? Is there a picture of it somewhere?

You know there is something wierd about the way the car is timed. THe car runs perfectly, must be timed OK. I had it timed professionally after making the major repair (oil pump, water pump, crankshaft seal, timng belt replacement). Well, now I have an Equus timing light. So I decided to see how the mechanic had set it. However at idle (and yes I am on #1 cylinder!), the damper mark is at the very aft edge of the timing index protruding from the lower cover. That is not marked...it only goes to + 15...but the aft edge would be about 20 deg.! And then when you go to high RPM, it moves aonither inch or more towards aft/counter-clockwise. There was no sign of the damper pulley not being the original one....but perhaps, if it had been replaced with one with the notch in a difference place, that would explain this? I wonder if the crank sprocket is lining up with TDC? I see now why setting the timing according to the Haynes book didn't work! When I do the cam seal replacement, I am going to have to be very careful to put new timing marks with white-out or something so I don't mess up the timing!

Thanks, geronimo

Reply to
geronimo

========== On the next generation, you need to use a jumper wire (paper clip) at the DLC1 prior to checking timing. Could be similar on yours. This disables the electronic advance and enables you to correctly check the base timing. When doing this the check engine light in the instrument panel flashes until you later remove the wire. To fabricate your own cam seal tool, you would need a bolt that threads into the end of the camshaft and a flat plate to fit over your correctly sized pipe to match the seal diameter. That way you could apply the pressure to push in the seal by threading in the bolt - there is no room to drive it in with a hammer, hence the need for a special tool.

Reply to
Daniel

Or instead of a bolt, one might be able to use two pieces of threaded rod joined together with one of those threaded unions that would shorten or lengthen as you turn the union.....the adjustable rod pushing against the strut tower?

Reply to
geronimo

========================= Why overly complicate it? If you try to push against the strut tower, you're going to be using an angled surface and push the tool out of position. Once you get everything lined up, it is a very simple process to install the seal. It takes very little force and doesn't have to move very far. The key is getting the right size to exactly match the seal, and make sure it is exactly aligned to press on the seal only.

Reply to
Daniel

Oh.....I get it now. Won't have to force it once it is lined up& not crooked. Guess what I'll be busy doing over the Thanksgiving holidays? The seal job, and replacing the steering rack. Should be interesting, I have never replaced a rack before. The pain in the rear is having to remove the center engine mount and cross-member again. Happy Holidays, Geronimo

Reply to
geronimo

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