radiator hoses

All,
I'm trying to figure out what parts I need to replace my radiator hoses on my '96 camry. I know I'll need the upper and lower hoses, and the
heater core hoses. Here's what I'm looking at:
16572-03032 upper radiator hose 16571-03031 lower radiator hose 87245-33070 heater core hose 87245-33090 heater core hose 87245-33100 heater core hose
But there's also 16261-74010 (some sort of bypass hose). Where does this hose go ?!
Also, how difficult is it to change the heater core hoses? I can probably do the front radiator (upper/lower) hoses myself, but do I need to remove the distributor to access the heater core hoses?
Thanks,
Michael
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You may prefer OEM hoses, many dealer parts sites have pictures and part numbers. I prefer to use Gates belts and hoses:
http://www.gates.com/index.cfm?location_idT1
There are standard size hoses going into the IAC valve, and molded heater core hoses.
snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

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snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

So, um, you believe the Gates hoses are superior to Toyota OEM?
Why, exactly?
Michael
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It'll be difficult to tell when the hoses will fail. Preventative maintenance is important here, like you said, 10 year old hoses with 130,000+ miles. It's time. Don't get stranded in the middle of the night, in the middle of a heavy rain storm and miles away from any service.
Actual quantitative comparisons are done by all the manufacturers but unfortunately are not released to the public. For me it's personal experience and recommendations from/discussions with other owners. You look for exactly the things that others have described. A hose or belt's longevity, it's ability to stand the stresses without hardening, cracking, deforming and with little signs of aging years later.
Having used GoodYear, Dyaco, or the common Mitsuboshis for imports, I find Gates belts and hoses excellent and now use their replacement belts and hoses exclusively unless they don't have it.
hee hee hee. I know Daniel really likes OEM belts and hoses. I had Toyota belts stretching (timing belt), drive belts hardening and cracking at 50,000 miles but would agree later years' radiator hoses are quite decent. That said I know how to double the life of Toyota belts: use Gates. "Gates designed and produced the industry's first V-belt and today is the world's largest manufacturer of V-belts, timing belts and serpentine belts."
Car makers change brands all the time and you'll never know what you'll get next. But I have my preference. http://www.gates.com /
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snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

Ok, I'm thinking of giving Gates a try, but do I have to cut the hose myself? Or do they make radiator hoses for the '96 Camry, pre-cut, correct length, etc.?
Michael
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There are molded hoses that are meant to fit like OEMs. They are listed as such "molded radiator hose". Check Gates' online catalog for proper application numbers.
Part locator: http://www.gates.com/part_locator/index.cfm?go=part_locator&location_id598
For older cars and modified street rods, there are universal "flexible" hoses. These you can use "unicoil" to shape them. But there is no need for universal hoses in the Camry. See:
http://www.gates.com/brochure.cfm?brochureI61&location_idT1&go=Unicoil
Clicking on the "Part Number" listed brings up a shopping cart like page. Click on the "Product Number" in the cart brings up the picture and specs (diameter, length, weight, etc) you can compare.
If you get a Gates timing kit, you'll typically get the Koyo idler pulley (which is the OEM one out of your car) and their tensioner pulley assembly is usually GMB. Sometimes the other way around. The kit with the belt and two pulleys costs about what Toyota charges for an idler pulley.
Talk about innovation and research strength BTW, Gates developed a narrow Carbon Cord Elastomeric Composite belt on Harley Davidson's request so Harley can transmit more power and put a wider rear wheel on their bikes instead of using chains!
Be sure to replace the seals even if they look fine. By 60K the cams are usually seeping (hot area of the engine). And combustion gases can blow past them.
You can get these either at rockauto.com (good prices, but pay shipping and wait a few days), or local NAPA stores. I've used both depending on urgency.
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I meant the combustion gases that blew into the crankcase and yet again blow past them, giving you the street traffic smell in the cabin when there are no street traffic around. I found out.
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snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

You mean the camshaft oil seal on the left side of the engine (looking at the engine from the hood), right?
I tried some Auto-RX to try and see if this would stop one of my (distributor?) oil leaks. Thought I'd give that a try before taking it in for service (timing adjustment is a bit beyond me, with my limited car skills).

Yeah, I noticed that NAPA seems to have them in stock.
By the way, what's the recommended method of changing the coolant hoses going to the heater? Do I have to remove the distributor anyway, to get way down there? (If so, I might as well just buy the hoses, and take the car to a mechanic myself...)
Thanks,
Michael
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Yes, there are three of them the cam, oil pump, and crank seals.

The distributor o-ring should be replaced, too. Autozone's page has the steps. Would be a good time to change out the hoses then. But in that case might be better to let a mechanic handle it. Finding a good one is tough.
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/13/e3/a4/0900823d8013e3a4.jsp

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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote: I know I'll need the upper and lower hoses, and the

=================Just curious how you know you need to replace the hoses. If you've been using the Toyota coolant and distilled water, regularly changed, those hoses can last a long, long time with zero cracking at the ends, no softness, swelling or bulging. If they're original equipment, they may still be in excellent condition. However, I've used aftermarket hoses that don't last nearly as long on other vehicles. So conceivably, you could actually be shortening the life of the hoses by changing them. Now, of course, if you see any evidence of weakness or cracking, replace them.
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Daniel wrote:

How do I know... no there's no cracking or bulging, but the car's got 137,400 miles on it, and it's 10 years old. Thinking of replacing with OEM parts.
Good idea/bad idea?
Thanks,
Michael
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On 15 Aug 2006 08:18:02 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

Great idea. They owe you nothing at this point. If you do wait and they let go, you know it will be in East Ratsass on a Sunday night in the rain, not in your driveway or the parking lot of the Toyota dealer.
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snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote:

==================================================This story may help. Around 15 yrs. ago, bought a 1977 Toyota pick up truck - still have it, runs great. Shortly after purchase, it overheated on the freeway and died. Cause? Bad hose. The hose was under the carburetor and hidden by the filter housing. Didn't even know it was there. My point is, that hose was swollen so badly, when I purchased the replacement from the dealer it didn't even look like the same part. So in my experience, if I'd known where to look, there would have been advance warning. BTW, replaced the head with a rebuilt unit for $125, which introduced me to the economy of Toyotas. IIRC a reground cam was another $40.
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