I have a 1990 Winnebago camper that is built on a 1 ton Toyota truck chassis. I want to check/change the rear brakes. I removed the rear dual wheels and then the six small (12mm) nuts on the exposed end of the axle. Then I took off the lock washers and tapered inserts. The axle is still solidly attached, so I thought that the differential end probably had a circlip or similar arrangement like some American trucks. I got under the vehicle to remove the rear cover to the rear-end. To my surprise there was no rear cover. I saw how the rear end came apart from the front. This looked like it would entail removing the drive shaft and then the entire cast front of the rear-end. This looked like a huge job just to change the rear brake shoes. HELP.....................................................
I'm not positive on yours, on a lot of these type set-ups you have to hammer on the center of the axle to get it to pop out. It takes at least a 2 Lb. hammer and you have to be careful to not hit any of the studs. Check the threads before you reinstall nuts as it's a bear to remove a broken stud if it breaks flush with the hub face. You can chase the stud threads with a die if in doubt or try running the nuts on by hand as a trial fit before installing the axle to make sure they'll go down the stud far enough. They do make specialty tools for removal but they are expensive, definately not cost effective for a one-time repair. I suggest you find a brake supply house near you and talk to them. You can probably get a lot of good advice from them, you will want to look at the differential to see if there is an identity tag or stampings before as this might help identify it. One of them might even rent or loan you any specialty tools you might need. One other tip, sometimes differential lube will drain out the hub when the axles are removed. I've found you can jack one side a little higher than the other so lube will stop weeping, clean hub & axle gasket surface good and apply a new gasket. Many techs and suppliers will tell you to reuse the old gasket but many times they will leak. I've even used a thin film of RTV on both sides of a new gasket, if you do be sure to let it dry completey before install as the gasket will squeeze out. Usually the diff lube will be ok after but it's a good idea to check, this is also a good time to change the diff lube as well. They make synthetic gear lubes, make sure you use the right one and check to see if you have positrac diff when cover is off as the lube is different, or needs an additive, for these. HTH, Dave
MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.