MPI PCV Valve Grommet for 4.2L

I already have my aluminum valve cover seated and I sure as heck don't want to take that off again to drill it out. How do you drill out a hole like that anyway? It's so big. What bit do you use?

There's got to be a better way. You mean the Kit comes with the grommets for the 4.0L valve cover and you have to modify the valve cover to get these things on? I haven't seen any instructions to that effect.

Thanks to anyone who has any ideas on this.

Bill

I have used a "knock out punch" for this sort of thing. This is an electrician's tool for punching a hole in sheet metal so a conduit connector can be fixed to it. It's hard to describe, but imagine a socket with sharp edges, and another socket that fits right inside it. A bolt is used to squeeze the two together and they poke a perfectly round hole in sheet metal. You would have to remove the valve cover to use one though.

Earle

Anyone else have a MPI kit and solved this problem?

Thanks in advance,

Bill

I used a more crude method, a holesaw with lots of cutting fluid on the drill press. No matter how you do it you'll probably have to remove the cover.

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A dremil tool and a fiberglass reinforced cut off wheel and 'real' steady hands comes to mind...

Probably would need about a 6 pack of beer too... ;-)

Mike

William Oliveri wrote:

Green-lee makes them, we called em 'hole pullers'. I just did both grommets on our YJ's 4.2 after the weber conversion and nutter bypass, took the old ones out, down to the local auto parts store and he matched em up with one of those 'Help' grommets, stuck right in and I think they were $1.99 ea. I would give you the part number but we did it last week and the packaging is already gone.

"Earle Horton" wrote in news:bk0q89$o6v68$ snipped-for-privacy@ID-147790.news.uni-berlin.de:

Bill,

Are you using the factory plastic cover? If so, there should not be any problem at all. It should fit right in, after removing the rubber grommets.

If you're using an after-market aluminum valve cover, you'll probably have to drill. I did it without removing the valve cover by going to Sears and getting the largest drill bit they had (1", I believe). I then drilled out the hole for the PCV valve. I was able to trim down parts of the air valve with a utility knife to make it fit into the existing hole. I then used RTV to seal around the air valve and replacement PCV.

NOTE: If you're using a Clifford valve cover, you have to modfiy the valve cover a bit. That metal plate in the rear hole is too close to the PCV. The replacement PCV valve will not work correctly, and you will suck oil into your fuel injection system.

On a cast-aluminum valve cover? __ Steve .

Michael, I'm using a Clifford Valve cover. I have already modified the plate per Hesco to resolve this problem.

Thanks,

Bill

Approximately 9/13/03 21:13, Earle Horton uttered for posterity:

Don't see them much any more, but the same punch is also sold to electronic hobbyists as a Chassis Punch, for making tube socket mounting holes in baseplates. Could probably use a nibbler, but the punch hole is far more likely to seal best.

Approximately 9/13/03 21:13, Earle Horton uttered for posterity:

Our 89 has a plastic valve cover with two grommets, PCV in front, vent in the rear. I was looking at a YJ that was for sale this morning, had a cast finned valve cover and the PCV valve was in the back and connected to a weber. The grommet looked to be the same size by 'knuckle measurement', I had our 89 parked next to it.

" Stephen Cowell" wrote in news:uZ09b.429$tl3.407 @newssvr23.news.prodigy.com:

You left the drill shavings in the valve cover? Isn't that BAD?