2005+ Tacoma 12V heads-up

Trailer brake connectors don't have enough current carrying capability, and are not a good battery(-) and/or frame ground. I couldn't use the trailer brake harness anyway as I do tow from time to time. I am also a HAM radio operator and I run a total of 250 watts in transmitter output power, and looking at adding another 50 watt transciever, and a 1,000 inverter to power my laptop and terminal node controller, and most anything else I decide to plug into it. Here is a link to a pic of the current setup.

know its a Tundra, not a Taco. However, I am not worried about ashortage ofelectrical power with that stock 850 cranking amp battery in it.:-)The powercables(#4 stranded wire) come directly from the battery with a 60amp fuse andfuse holder all of 12 inches from the battery(just in case),the terminal blocks,in-line fuseholder, and wire were obtained from thelocal Circuit City store inthe car audio section. The power cables from thefuse holder to where the cablescome into the cab are encased in "smurfpipe" (blue flexible electrical conduit)

This one is good for at least 20 amps. While it might not power your rolling version of WOR, it's fine for my Kenwood subwoofer which includes a 15 amp inline fuse.

I didn't use the brake connector ground. There are many excellent and easy to find frame grounds on the truck. I used one in the center console, which is where the factory 120v inverter is grounded. With the plastic center console and armrest removed, I counted at least three easily accessible genuine grounding points.

I tow too, but ~3000 pounds, without brakes. I didn't modify the functionality of the connector, nor did I use the included connector harness. I figure if I ever want to install trailer brakes, I can shut off the subwoofer and still power the brakes.

You have a Tacoma 4.0 right? Tows 3K fairly easily? Ever go over that? I'm going to be towing just under 4K with mine on an occasional basis, wondering how it will do. Rates at 6.5K with gross combined of

11.1K but I'm not sure I trust the ratings.

In my state, anything over 2K required to have brakes, however, nobody enforces it. Most don't even know it.

Frank

Like it's not even there. It stops it well, too. 3K is my max, the "typical" load for me is ~ 2300.

I'd think it would be fine. Be aware that I live in "rolling" terrain, nothing that could be considered mountains. I occasionally head up into the White and Green mountains of upper New England, but I haven't been there with this setup yet.

I don't even know our brake law. I bought my cargo trailer new, from a large trailer dealer, and would have thought the salesman would have jumped at the opportunity to sell me more gear, but brakes were never mentioned.

Thanks. All flatland for me.

On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 12:32:51 GMT, B A R R Y found these unused words floating about:

If your trailer is rated for that weight, then you probably have them, they would NOT be an 'add-on' or choice!

What plug format did it come with?

IF it didn't and it (per the link given you) is not set up for your state, the dealer is liable for any costs to make it legal.

4 Pin, it has no brakes. Brakes are offered as an option for those with smaller tow vehicles. My trailer is a Haulmark.

It's legal, my state requires brakes @ 3000.

My trailer is registered for 2980. I've weighed in on the local dump scale @ 3100 with remodeling debris. My usual load is ~2300 when I leave town.

And of course, that's not true.

On Mon, 23 Apr 2007 11:21:07 -0500, Frank Boettcher found these unused words floating about:

Perhaps in YOUR state, in the last two of mine, it IS true. A Dealer may NOT sell any NEW vehicle NOT meeting State Regulations. He can be fined and is liable to Civil action.

A trailer in NV, the dealer had to ADD one extra light to meet State Regulations !!!

Kirk Splaat

Hey thanks, I'm new to this group having just bought my truck recently. It usually takes much longer to ferret out the resident trolls and place them in the killfile.

This is most likely true - Some states (Texas and Oklahoma among them, IIRC) have requirements that all new trucks sold have a rear bumper, even if the manufacturer didn't put one on at the factory. And when they order lots of bumpers to put on the trucks, the dealers order them with the dealership name stamped into the steel for hard-to-remove advertising...

("Honey, pass me the can of body filler and the catalyst...")

Hmmm... What did they have to add?

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On Wed, 25 Apr 2007 05:49:29 GMT, Bruce L. Bergman found these unused words floating about:

Came with a pair of low brake lights, had to add a red over the doors. There were red markers high, but far outside edges and they didn't go on with the brakes.

That's a new one. CHMSL is required for new cars and light trucks, but I've never seen it on the Required Equipment chart (published by the lighting suppliers) for any trailer.

Point being that they're impossible to wire correctly when being towed behind a car with the 'American' 2-lamp S/LT and S/RT system, as the spec for a CHMSL specifically calls for illumination /only/ on stop, and there's no dedicated Stop lead provided to the trailer.

They could require it to be /installed/, but it can only be wired up properly with a 3-lamp system wiring (S, LT, RT) on the trailer AND the tow vehicle. And since the state can't legislate the equipment on an already constructed and registered tow vehicle when you buy a new trailer, that starts heading down a rather slippery slope...

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Riiiiiiiiiiiiiiight.

Here it 'sez that NV requires TWO stop lamps, and they can be incorporated into the tail lights:

No mention of a cyclops light on trailers, nor the height of the brake lights.

On Wed, 25 Apr 2007 16:08:56 GMT, Bruce L. Bergman found these unused words floating about:

I'll have to check. I just test with running lights and turns flashing. The dealer's salesman 'said' it was a brake light, but it could be a mid running light instead. I have an inline LED checker to first make sure the truck' s system is providing the signals.

I didn't have to, but I bought an old camper with a small running 'bar' over the back window. I was advised (especially as it was rusted through_ to put three 'properly spaced' lamps as red high runners. Both edges and the center are now lamped, as with the new cargo trailer.

On Wed, 25 Apr 2007 16:26:38 GMT, B A R R Y found these unused words floating about:

See reply to Bergman.

FWIW, the cargo has TWO run/turn/stop lights EACH side, factory installed.

Which is more than the minimums stated in the link to your DMV that I posted.

I'm still confused what in your DMV trailer code that is different than most other states, or not covered by the standard light package on every new trailer I've ever seen, which would require the local dealer to install extra parts.

On Thu, 26 Apr 2007 07:50:14 -0400, B A R R Y found these unused words floating about:

Haven't a clue ... Bought the trailer to move and now there's no way to conveniently ask them.

Saw it withou the centred light, put deposit on it as they were to mount a bracket and spare, was told about the additional light when I PU'd three days later.

What's the rear running (clearance) light requirements? 2 or 3?

It's all clearly spelled out in the link I posted.